Resurrected,

That's exactly what I would do. In fact, I've given it some thought, as I'd like to get a handle on my AFRs myself. That said... While these would be among the simpler work I'd have done, by a lot, I can't touch doing them for what Affordable FI does them for. Not even close. I like making stuff for myself, sometimes mostly because I can, but I'd buy from them.

It is interesting, though... Having CNC mills, I don't see these as lathe parts at all. Didn't even enter my mind. I had to think about it for a second when you mentioned doing them on a lathe. I've done 4-jaw lathe work before, but I just don't process parts like this that way. Circular interpolation simplifies a LOT of process complications.

Thanks. Brad.

I wonder if the sensor reads more of the cylinders closest to the sensor? I would think putting it after the merge/collector would be more accurate?? Something like Eddie Young did a while back?

Just my 02

I did same thing a while back, was time consuming though, LOL

Smitty,

Making stuff is fun, but the only time I make something I can readily buy is when I can’t buy EXACTLY what I want.

I used to make my own prop shaft collets for my model boats. I could buy them for Octura or Aeromarine for ~$30. The ones I made took me a couple hours each to make, and that was if I made them in batches. But the ones that could be bought could have as much as .015” runout (sometimes more), which is a big deal at 30K+ RPMs. The ones I made had zero runout. I went to great lengths to make sure of that.

I doubt such a benefit could be rendered in the making of our own O2 sensor wedges. $150 is pretty cheap.

Thanks. Brad.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9bfaacfa7c.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5b53c8107d.jpg
These were the 2 I made to tune my Baja with when I switched it to gils right before selling it. In my case, it was MUCH better to have o2s in side vs front or rear. In T Banzers case, from pics he showed me after I dynoed and tuned his 540 they'd also have to face forward as his rears real tight and with his vortec supercharger, Im not sure hed have much if ANY forward clearance.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f2a70a372d.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a9852e585e.jpg
couldnt find better pics, I simply put a block of aluminum in mill table at a angle then fly cut it before boring the hole for exhaust stream, Smitty

Sorry for the delay in responding, I have not been in the office for a while.
I'm just a shade tree machinist, I didn't have a fly cutter at that time, so the easiest way for me to make the center hole nice and clean was in the lathe. I could of used a hole saw and polished the hole after, but I do like the lathe.
Setting up the 4 jaw is pretty quick. Easy way to polish it as well.
The first one took a while to figure out the angles and most correct procedure, but after that it was easy.
High school trig to get the O2 hole in the correct location and angle!
I did make it harder on myself by making the bottom flat and angling the top and trying to get as much angle into the sensor bung as well.
Looking back I should have just put the bung in square then angle the bottom.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean! I put together my machine shop in a spot in my barn on a shoe string budget and aside from metal shop in 11th grade have never worked as a actual full time machinist or had any other formal training. Its amazing how cheap too you can buy nice manual machines, I have about 8000$ wrapped up in my 13 x 40 2 hp lathe, bridgport romi 5 hp 13 x 50" lathe , 9 x 42 Birmingham 2 hp mill, 10 x 54" ramill xlt 3 hp mill, 6' x 18" surface grinder, 6" x 48" / 12' powermatic combination disc sander. Ive spent at least that much on tooling, etc since then though!

I had no idea how much could be spent on tooling!

Resurrected,

Oh, I can tell you.... :rolleyes:

I spent $6K+ on cutting tools from one vendor alone last year, and I've been in business for 11 years. And there's only two of us here. The expense is neverending.

Thanks. Brad.