Offshoreonly.com - Globe Blue Impellers- Again....

Did some searches here and on other forums. To recap, the Globe Blue is purported to run dry, whether or not your housing can is another question. Running dry is not really the selling point to me. Here is my overall take in general summation.

Blades are a different composition of rubber, softer and more flexible.
Known to last many years and hours of service.
Produces less overall flow and less water pressure in a Bravo application and is likely not suitable for an application where higher cooling is needed.
Many have used for years with no problems in mostly stock and lower HP application.
May be more resistant to damage from sand, not many post or experience with that.
Some years back they switched to a plastic hub and a few failures were reported, it appears they have gone back to a brass center hub.

My experience with the Globe was years back on a 502 W/B&M 250, crossover and dumpvalves, about 20 PSI with the Globe at WOT and 15 or so at 3200, maybe 1 or 2 at idle. Plenty sufficient. I quit using it when I had trouble finding one and had heard issues with tearing center hub out. Sort of forgot about them. With the Merc impeller my pressure went up to 2 to 4 at idle, 20 at 3200 and 25 plus at higher RPM. This is with dump valves.

So in summary a longer lasting, lower flow and pressure impeller for a Bravo seawater pump. I am presently in process of putting back together MY Son's MPI Vortec head engine that had intake rot and intake gasket failure allowing some water to end up in the engine. With the less than perfect design of only 8 bolts holding the intake down I think a little less water pressure would be a good thing. May also relieve some stress on the heads which are likely rusty as well. His MPI motor does have the water pressure sensor in the main water inlet, I would need to verify there is enough to not trigger a fault. Overall with a rusty headed engine I see no good reason to run more WP than is needed. This is just a stock 5.0 MPI so should not be running hot. More WP is just adding stress to the head water jacket sealing surface. I could go with a dump valve after the cooler and direct it to the top cap as my 502 and crossover setup is but that is more rigging and holes as well as tuning the size of the dump and spring pressures, a lot of screwing around.

Has anyone been using these on stock motors?

While I am asking how robust is the water sealing surface to the external (lifter valley side) on a rusty Vortec head, is it common for the head to rust to the point that the sealing surface fails? Boat was a salty before he got it, will be freshwater going forward. Compression test is good so that surface is still good. Just concerned that the head is pretty rusty in the water passages. A crate motor is not in his budget right now, if it were mine I would have 383'd and carbed it.

https://defender.com/en_us/globe-200...hoCFSoQAvD_BwE