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Lots of information to absorb and process.
First, a lot of weight has been taken out of the boat. I lost all of the heavy MPI stuff as well as the iron heads and so on. I did add the fridge back to the boat… I can use it, it works really well, and it made the cabin more solid if that makes sense. This was the first time ever running with it on the boat and we ran hard and quiet compared to before. It stays and isn’t that heavy. The crystal is sitting in my garage lol. The boat still ran 70 maybe 71 with barely any trim so I think I could have been a little more aggressive with it. Like I said, the best with the MPIs was with the trim off the card to the point where you could feel the ass end start to wiggle. We were no where near there. Rookie… it’s interesting that you mentioned 25P. I have a pair of solid hub 25P Mirages on the shelf that I could try to get the RPM up. I think 5500 is about the max I’ll run it though it honestly feels, based on seat of the pants peak torque rpm that it’s probably max power at 57-5900. Will the TRS tolerate a Rev 4? Raising the X dimension isn’t an option and if anything it’s probably worth a couple mile an hour for thousands worth of work. Bravos aren’t an option either… and I love the transmissions. Was a dream putting the boat into tight spaces this weekend. She did everything perfect with exception of wringing her out. |
Originally Posted by Tartilla
(Post 4926986)
You were running Mirage plus 25s, or non-cupped?
I ran 25 Mirage's, 27 Mirage's, 25 Mirage's thinned and added cupping, 24 Bravo 1's, 26 Bravo 1's, 28 4 blade Spinelli's, 26 4 blade Spinelli's, 24 4 blade Spinelli round ears, and 27 Ballistic's
Originally Posted by Tartilla
(Post 4926986)
Stern lift is going to put the bow down a bit? Triming up the drive would counter the stern lift to try and air out the hull? HP loss there?
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Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4926969)
My 311 Formula.
I couldn’t run a lot of trim maybe only 4 on the card (back when I had the 502MPIs the best speed was with it trimmed off the scale…71-72 with the same props but turning 4700 maybe just under 4800). |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4927000)
What props were these #'s with?
I’m assuming that if I went more aggressive on the trim I would have went well past those numbers. More basing it on last year’s experience but it was always hot and humid when I was out last season and I cut the season short. |
Originally Posted by TomZ
(Post 4926996)
Will the TRS tolerate a Rev 4?
I had 1 upper TRS failure in 20+ years on my Panther. I had 1 upper failure last year on my Bravo boat. |
Not sure about how the Pather is setup but the 311 has a lot of rocker built into the hull. It wants to carry the bow and is very responsive to trim but will porpoise like a ***** unless the speed is high enough. The boat acted like this with the MPIs as well as with the new power.
Would a stern lifting prop be counter productive here? |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4927010)
As strong or stronger than a Bravo IMO.
I had 1 upper TRS failure in 20+ years on my Panther. I had 1 upper failure last year on my Bravo boat. I’ll be changing drive oil this weekend and hopefully won’t find any surprises. Rolling the props after Saturday’s run felt nice a smooth so I think both drives are still happy. I should probably buy a spare though. |
Originally Posted by zz28zz
(Post 4926980)
I'm running Merlin intakes (and heads) on custom built 468's in my 27/29 Fountain.. My next perf upgrade will be to rpl the intakes with some alum ones. I've never had to open these engs but prev owner did and said the intakes felt like they weighed 100 lbs each. Pretty sure I could lose well over 100 lbs with the swaps.
Factory intake weighed 46.4 lbs Edelbrock air gap 20.4 lbs. |
so you put the fridge back in but took weight out by taking it out of the engines. so now you have shifted the center of gravity forward on the hull. now you have props that stern lift so you are running wetter than before. personally I would try 3 blades and see if it will set back on the stern and let it carry the nose better. old school straight bottom boats need to ride back on the transom and even a little change forward in CG can cause lots of issues.
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For testing purposes, get about 150#s of sand tubes, lay them across the
engine hatch, wrap ratchet straps around the bunch and bottom of the hatch and go out and run it. This should replicate the center of gravity before the power change |
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