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Daytona Sensor CD-1 ignition
I had my 30+ year old crane hi-6 ignition box die. I think i got my money out of it?
I'm looking for a RELIABLE replacement for it. Will be going on a 100% street twin turbo sbf running e85 at usually under 20psi but could see 30+ on rare occasions. I have heard good things about Daytona Sensor products but don't know anyone actually running one. I was thinking about the CD-1 box (pn 102001). Anyone have anything to say about it good or bad ? Only looking for it trigger coil. My ecu can do everything else i need. TIA |
It's kinda hard not to buy a couple HI-6's off ebay for $50-$100. They don't make them like that anymore.
I miss my HI-6M's. |
Had horrible experience with daytona stuff. Poor service. Bought 4 boxes off them, 2 were the older more square box, about 3 years ago generation. And 2 were the “upgraded” new box more rectangular. The original squares were fine the rectangular ones would add timing (virtually impossible ) but somehow did it out of nowhere, im talking 6-10 degrees. Did some digging on it and im not the only one with this problem. Had them do it on the dyno right infront of us.
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Originally Posted by Cms51
(Post 4927693)
Had horrible experience with daytona stuff. Poor service. Bought 4 boxes off them, 2 were the older more square box, about 3 years ago generation. And 2 were the “upgraded” new box more rectangular. The original squares were fine the rectangular ones would add timing (virtually impossible ) but somehow did it out of nowhere, im talking 6-10 degrees. Did some digging on it and im not the only one with this problem. Had them do it on the dyno right infront of us.
Your rectangle box just added timing...from the software? Or timing at the plug? Lots of mechanical factors after Daytona Box timig signal to plug firing. Don't these box designs operate on an retarding factor. You mechanically set your max timing, and the box retards the timing? |
Yeah, retarding less equals more advance you can’t make something happen before it does but you can make it happen after it does. :)
It’s a time thing :) |
I’ve said this many times on here - Daytona CD boxes and closed cooling are the best money I have ever spent boating.
you can see my prior posts on it, but lock the timing, build your own curve on the computer, used the anti stall feature to throw timing at it as needed. I have 800hp NA motors with dominators so not a perfect recipe for seemless idle quality, but these boxes changed my boating experience. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4927691)
It's kinda hard not to buy a couple HI-6's off ebay for $50-$100. They don't make them like that anymore.
I miss my HI-6M's. |
Originally Posted by Cms51
(Post 4927693)
Had horrible experience with daytona stuff. Poor service. Bought 4 boxes off them, 2 were the older more square box, about 3 years ago generation. And 2 were the “upgraded” new box more rectangular. The original squares were fine the rectangular ones would add timing (virtually impossible ) but somehow did it out of nowhere, im talking 6-10 degrees. Did some digging on it and im not the only one with this problem. Had them do it on the dyno right infront of us.
When the box advanced the timing, was it past the max timing set by crank trigger/dist. Was it because of the software settings? |
Originally Posted by seafordguy
(Post 4927753)
I’ve said this many times on here - Daytona CD boxes and closed cooling are the best money I have ever spent boating.
you can see my prior posts on it, but lock the timing, build your own curve on the computer, used the anti stall feature to throw timing at it as needed. I have 800hp NA motors with dominators so not a perfect recipe for seemless idle quality, but these boxes changed my boating experience. |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4927772)
I just went back and read all l the comments on the cd-1. All seem positive, except a few posts back. Unfortunately the cd-1 has a lot of features that i would never use. My efi ecu does everything. I just need it to fire the coil off. From reading the posts from a few years ago, the price has sure gone up quite a bit.
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Are there any other options for digital ignition mapping for carb'd engines thart includes manifold vac/pressure?
Caveat...reliable. |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4927772)
My efi ecu does everything. I just need it to fire the coil off.
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The new box’s we got direct from daytona. New style (rectangular). When setting the timing you go to setting “0” on the box. Thats supposed to let you out a light on it without any of the features kicking in and hold your timing to confirm your max timing. Drop the distributor (pro billet) in at say 30 degrees set it. Now we didnt realize there was a problem because we never put a light back on it once we moved it to i believe setting “3” which is our tune. And shame on me for not putting a light back on it. But i highly advise this. Because when we did put it on, it had thrown 7-10 degrees + timing at it. Im confident that that software in the new box had a issue where when on setting “0 “ static timing it had retarded it the 7-10 degrees. So when we put it to setting 3 our tune ,it added the xtra 7-10 without us knowing. Daytona was great to deal with until we had this issue. My original boxes were great no problems at all so this wasnt our first time installing them. But they pretty much said we installed the box wrong and wernt any help. Im still confident that there boxes are the best on the market for carbed motors to run smoother and idle better. But the software in the bew box didnt “add” timing per say. It retarted it when we went to setting “0” for original setup and once switched to the tune was more than we had planned for. Very difficult to explain typing it out. But just sharing my experience so someone else doesnt detonate there motors aswell. Once we figured this out no issues at all. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 4927795)
I'd just buy a Holley coil driver and eliminate the box and rely on your ECU for timing.
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I installed the $50 replacement crane box. All good again.
I think I'm not going to fix what isn't broken. I'll pick up another spare crane box when I see another clean one. Thanks for the help all!!! |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4928745)
Spark won't be strong enough under boost
I knew that... my bad. Glad my other suggestion worked. lol |
Originally Posted by Cms51
(Post 4927693)
Had horrible experience with daytona stuff. Poor service. Bought 4 boxes off them, 2 were the older more square box, about 3 years ago generation. And 2 were the “upgraded” new box more rectangular. The original squares were fine the rectangular ones would add timing (virtually impossible ) but somehow did it out of nowhere, im talking 6-10 degrees. Did some digging on it and im not the only one with this problem. Had them do it on the dyno right infront of us.
when you say your timing was 6-10 degree? What exactly you mean ? And what did you do to fix this issue ? You set the distributor with a strobe lite and worked good ? |
Originally Posted by Bulitz1
(Post 4930990)
I bought my Daytona a season ago, had many recommendations on it on this forum . Boat started and ran very good . Last Sunday I started my scarab all good went to plain and didn’t pass the 2700rpm !!! Full throttle and nothing stuck there 2700. Finally got out of plain and reved all the way no issues at all going 4000 floor it and it runs perfectly. Went to a beach after several hours start it up same no issues going to plain stuck at 2700 . Was thinking and thinking. My engine builder did a map on it and I never touched it . Yesterday called Daytona they said that mode 1 is set for map modification and mode zero is stock map . 2 to 9 modes are blank. Manual say other wise .
when you say your timing was 6-10 degree? What exactly you mean ? And what did you do to fix this issue ? You set the distributor with a strobe lite and worked good ? Good info, what serting were you on during your 'issue'? |
No didnt solve it yet , i will try basics . My dominator 1050 see if its starving fuel and ignition I chq it out with a strobe lite to see if timing changed . I did it 35 at 3000 . That what i was recommended to time
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Originally Posted by Bulitz1
(Post 4930998)
No didnt solve it yet , i will try basics . My dominator 1050 see if its starving fuel and ignition I chq it out with a strobe lite to see if timing changed . I did it 35 at 3000 . That what i was recommended to time
Fuel filter clogged with water? Distributors can have mechanical failures as well, throwing off timing. I just had a customer's carbed 454 in a Chev truck come in, found the base HEI timing was 60° advanced. Not a typo. Had to use another timing light to confirm. That's with the vac adv unhooked. Used premium fuel, never any detonation. But I think it smoked the rings. The distributor was loose. Not my work...lol. |
Originally Posted by Tartilla
(Post 4931013)
Let's hope for something simple and not a Daytona issue.
Fuel filter clogged with water? Distributors can have mechanical failures as well, throwing off timing. I just had a customer's carbed 454 in a Chev truck come in, found the base HEI timing was 60° advanced. Not a typo. Had to use another timing light to confirm. That's with the vac adv unhooked. Used premium fuel, never any detonation. But I think it smoked the rings. The distributor was loose. Not my work...lol. what do you recommend as timing ? 35 at 3000 ? |
Originally Posted by Bulitz
(Post 4931123)
what do you recommend as timing ? 35 at 3000 ?
Guided by rules, not always firm. WOT: Unless you have fast burn chambers and high port swirl, you need at least 31-32° adv. Very rarely would you go over 36° Load Load and High Vacuum: timing can be really high... 46° area. Lean A/F mixtures need more time to burn. High vacuum from minimal throttle opening, crrates a very low dynamic compression. The lower pressure slows the burn down. Needs more timing. Mechanical distributors were never able to account for low load advance. Vaccum adv distributors were able to help out, and the engine becomes more efficient. Typically, marine engines want to good timing under load, certainly under acceleration. Light planing cruise, there may be some room to increase timing, but the risk is higher. Essentially, 34-36° adv timing timing is the ballpark area. SBC/BBC. Vortec chambers will generally want less. If your compression is too high on a marine engine...and you've retarded the ingnition to account for it, (29-30° area), the peak cyl pressures are not at the optimal crank angle, and the fuel is burning more than you want as it's blown past the exh valve/port. This creates a hotter than normal exh valve, and adds detonation issues. |
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