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X Dimension
26 Baja outlaw 700 HP Teague Platinum outdrive IMCO lower. No setback. Looking for recommendations on best X dimension from someone with experience with similar setup.
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X Dimension
26 Baja outlaw 700 HP Teague Platinum outdrive IMCO lower. No setback. Looking for recommendations on best X dimension from someone with experience with similar setup.
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Is the IMCO lower the STD length? If so I'm not sure you should move it all.
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I’m not sure of the standard X. I’m at 6 3/8” now with standard IMCO
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keep it deep its more driveable in sporty conditions
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X dimension and drive height are two different things. is this a rigged boat? if so the x dimension is what it is as that is where the transom is cut and the gimble is mounted. you can then add spacers to lower the drive height. if this is a new uncut transom then you would need to know the x dimension that is best remembering that if you put it an inch too high you could always add spacers but if you put it too low then you can not ever make the drive height higher than that without a -1 or -2 inch lower. for the record when we raced F1 and F2 we had a minimum drive height and at first everyone went to that thinking that higher was better. most of the boats raced with spacers as we learned that higher resulted in more slip and worse handling.
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So, the gimble location is standard as received from the factory. The lower is the standard for the IMCO from Teague. When I added HP to the boat, I blew the Bravo outdrive twice no matter how easy I drive it, even with a Drive Guardian. I don’t plan to set the drive back right now because I don’t want to have to change the hydraulic steering I already have. I’m just trying to get a feel for where the X Dimension should likely be with the 26 Outlaw. Hindsight says I should have gotten the -2 lower, to be able to adjust height, but it is what it is. Teague can change me to a -2 lower and I can space it if necessary, but someone with more experience might say stay standard because that’s what typically is best on this boat. Hate to buy the -2 and end up spacing down 2.
I’m going to spend more time running and getting better numbers, but I’ve always felt it was better to start closer to what others have found works and tweak it from there. What are some opinions on the Hydromatic QIV on this setup? I ran a four blade 24P Bravo with the stock 425 HP. I now have a Bravo 26P and 28P I’m trying with the 700Hp. |
Unless you are filling and re cutting the transom hole and changing your engine height, your X dimension doesn't change. X dimension is the engine crankshaft centerline and is usually set in the 16-20" area. Your X dimension is right about 16".
You are talking about how adjusting your propshaft height in relation to the bottom. IMO, you could easily raise you propshaft height 2" with a -2 lower. Only testing will tell what your actual gains will be. On my 28 Pantera(5200#) with about 550hp, I had the propshaft set to about 4.5" below the bottom and the boat performed well. A QIV prop is a stern lifting prop and used more on stepped hull boats. I would stick with Bravo 1 props or maybe a QIV-X. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8d3d33ece2.png |
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4929226)
Unless you are filling and re cutting the transom hole and changing your engine height, your X dimension doesn't change. X dimension is the engine crankshaft centerline and is usually set in the 16-20" area. Your X dimension is right about 16".
You are talking about how adjusting your propshaft height in relation to the bottom. IMO, you could easily raise you propshaft height 2" with a -2 lower. Only testing will tell what your actual gains will be. On my 28 Pantera(5200#) with about 550hp, I had the propshaft set to about 4.5" below the bottom and the boat performed well. A QIV prop is a stern lifting prop and used more on stepped hull boats. I would stick with Bravo 1 props or maybe a QIV-X. I only ask as I am in a similar position and wondering if it's going from a b1 to a Q4 |
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Originally Posted by CheckmateScarab
(Post 4929256)
I could be wrong but I always thought the Q4 is a larger diameter bravo 1? Both being stern lifting props. I also have always been under the impression that the Q4X is a b1 copy with a slightly smaller diameter, again stern lifting
I only ask as I am in a similar position and wondering if it's going from a b1 to a Q4 |
Are you referring to X dimension, or prop height? People get these mixed up all the time. Are you questioning your engine height or your prop depth? X is the height of your engine in relation to your drive and prop height is is depth below the boat which is completely separate and adjustable other than cavitation plate.
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Prop shaft CL to pad bottom/bottom of boat. Currently 6 3/8”
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I’d see if you can track down Wild Card 09 or IGetWet on here. They’ve both spent a lot of hours setting up 25 outlaws. Probably the closest you’ll get.
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Thanks for the advice. I did
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What did they say?
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Nothing yet
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I may be complicating things, but I’m starting to consider some other options. A question I have is with regards to adding an extension box. My assumption is that a neutral box doesn’t change your ex dimension and so the only change that is possible would be to add a Shorty ifit looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box. it looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box that raises the X dimension you could use the standard lower but net a higher prop. The question I have is this is it better to run a neutral box and a Shorty or run a box that raises the next dimension and run a standard?
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I may be complicating things, but I’m starting to consider some other options. A question I have is with regards to adding an extension box. My assumption is that a neutral box doesn’t change your ex dimension and so the only change that is possible would be to add a Shorty ifit looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box. it looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box that raises the X dimension you could use the standard lower but net a higher prop. The question I have is this is it better to run a neutral box and a Shorty or run a box that raises the next dimension and run a standard?
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A neutral extension box with 12" set back will put the prop about 1" deeper due to the transom angle. Transoms are usually at about an 11-12* angle.
Ext boxes work well on some boats and others they do little nothing for. You don't really see any 24, 25 or 26 Outlaws with ext boxes. What are you hoping to gain?? How does the boat ride now?? |
Originally Posted by 26 Outlaw Bad Influence
(Post 4929437)
I may be complicating things, but I’m starting to consider some other options. A question I have is with regards to adding an extension box. My assumption is that a neutral box doesn’t change your ex dimension and so the only change that is possible would be to add a Shorty ifit looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box. it looks like that will run better. However, if you add an extension box that raises the X dimension you could use the standard lower but net a higher prop. The question I have is this is it better to run a neutral box and a Shorty or run a box that raises the next dimension and run a standard?
Adding what Griff mentioned about transom angle, you would be even deeper. |
26 outlaw, sorry for not getting back sooner. Does your 26 have a notch? My 25 had a small notch, but then every boat is different even if they’re the exact same model. Baja’s need trim reaction to go faster and ride right. Plane and simple.
Ok here we go. My bravo x was originally 6.875” below the bottom with no box. Great trim reaction with 3 blade mirage plus. Ran 72-73 with 496ho. Next season added a imco +3” extension box with same bravo x. Rule of thumb is water rises 1” of every 12” of set back. Box actually raised propshaft 2.5625” must of been due to transom angle. So propshaft was at 4.3125” below. Mirage pluses, bravo, even rev-4 just didn’t seem to bite well. But I was told I got one from a bad batch of rev-4. Next season dropped in a whippled 525, conservatively built at 775hp, and replaced bravo x with imco scx (2” shorter than bravo x). I don’t have measurements written down but that should’ve made the propshaft 2.3125” below the bottom, but also a little further back as the scx are longer by a little. Bravo slipped a lot so got a fulled diameter full tube maximus. Trim reaction was good but still not great. May have been lifting the stern some with that bigger diameter and longer tube. Next season sold the scx and I tried a bravo XR with sportmaster with some 4 blades with and without 1” spacer and all I recall that doing was blowing out when trying to plane. Had to BABY it up fountain style. Said f it and bought a scx-4 with #6 shaft. It measured .25” below the bottom with the leading edge of the cleaver prop 41.75” from edge of notch. Tried lots of different props, 3 blade cleaver, 4 blade cleaver, round ear 5 blade cleaver, even some bravo style with an adapter. Adapter pushed props back about another 3”. Think Maximus and bblades similar 5 blade. Round ear 5 blade ran best but was probably a little too much pitch at 30 and diameter at 17”. Found a hearing 5 blade 16.8dia 21 degree rake, 27 or 28 pitch I think, at the end of the season but never got to try it before selling the boat, but the hering is what the current owner is still running on it. He says has good trim response and from running next to him that does seem to be the case. Think it runs 85 any day, maybe a little more. Could probably use a little less diameter. Sure it’d go 5-10mph was with a bravo XR but there’s no worry with the scx-4 and can take off like a jet ski. So long ass story short, if you want to get into f’n with prop heights, I’d find a -2 lower and be ready to rent spacers and props. What kind of trim reaction should tell you a lot. Very fine like between too much slip and then too many blades or diameter causing stern lift. The 25 and 26 outlaw hulls were a bit different, and most of my time was with a ext box. |
No notch. I’ll read it over a couple time but part of my issue is I don’t have anyone to ride with me and tell me the fine details of what’s happening. You spoke about trim response I think, but I’m no expert there. I know the basics but haven’t driven another perforate to have any real idea about the details of what the boat is doing.i had hoped it was as easy as someone with a 26 Outlaw could simply say, “I did this and it as fast as it can go for the available HP. Of course, now I’m learning that each boat is a little different. It just seems odd that those differences, which must be small, would make two boats rigged out the same run that much slower. I was hoping it might be as easy as someone telling me to stay with my setup, but simply move the prop to a -2” lower. That play with several props. I’m assuming that big changes have a potential of big speed gains, and little tweaks mean little. The iss is, I just don’t know whether a shorter lower or extension bout would give real speed gains. Then I’d be left to make the small tweaks. I love the boat, and simply want to get the best speed for reasonable modification
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Must of the fun is in the journey not the result. Keep working at it. From my experience if you raise the prop shaft height from where Baja originally put it it wont be much to get optimal results.
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Ok, went back and read some. How does it run with the bravo 4 blade now? If you want to get real into this stuff you’re going to have someone ride with you and take speed and rpm recordings to measure slip.
Sure more blades look cool but the most efficient prop is a 2 blade set up right. |
Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4929636)
Ok, went back and read some. How does it run with the bravo 4 blade now? If you want to get real into this stuff you’re going to have someone ride with you and take speed and rpm recordings to measure slip.
Sure more blades look cool but the most efficient prop is a 2 blade set up right. |
And what does the manufacturer Baja propose?
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I’m assuming what they propose is a standard depth for the bravo one X but when you start throwing additional horsepower at it, I’m sure the standard is out the window.
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Originally Posted by 26 Outlaw Bad Influence
(Post 4929785)
I’m assuming what they propose is a standard depth for the bravo one X but when you start throwing additional horsepower at it, I’m sure the standard is out the window.
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Guess it depends how fast you currently are. Not same hull BUT my 272 Baja had a 7 1/4" prop centerline, at time I only had 950 hp (later it was higher), boat ran fairly fast and somewhat stable running at 92.5 to 92.8 gps running ;light with 30 labbed 4 blade. I went the extension box route as MANY people claimed I would gain speed. I lost speed and boat porpoised to point I had to arrest the porpoise with more trrim tab, Never got boat out of the 89 mph range with box regardless of prop, driveheight etc. Tore box BACK off, speed came back. My theory is even though prop centerline seemed deep, at speed the boat ran fairly high out pf the water and it just hated the box. Fast forward, I upgraded engine to 1050 hp with more mods and 1115 with my smallest pulley. Boat ran 99.5 with the 1115 pulley and a solid 96 with the 1050 pulley. So in my quest to break 100 mph I put a 2" imco shorrty on, boat hated it, was hard to get on plane, wouldnt carry bow at speed. That 7 1/4 prop cl was more like 5.5 or 5" IF you made a imaginary line where the pad was to a intersecting vee. spaced it back down a inch, still sucked. At one point I spun boat out trimming it at about 96 mph with the shorty and saw death/god which put the fear in me as my feet touched water half ejected from boat over side, luckily fell back in then tether shut it off. So you can only try stuff but theres no guaranteed results, be careful, Smitty
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2de3ce6fe8.jpg
looked cool though! |
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