I did awlgrip with a brush after considerable prep work, Mask? ut oh, was I supposed to use a mask? Is that why Im hard all the time now? LOL

ISOCYANATES, do a safety search Most paints like Imron, sherman williams etc have it, not sure about two part polys:D

Buck183 - Is your stuff able to spray on thick? I've got a 13' Whaler that I'd like to "make" a rubrail with some kind of spray on thing.

As far as bilge coating, I've found that Valvoline makes a blackish bilge coating that stays on virtually forever. Application is simple as well. Pour into motor. Run for 30 hours. Drain into bilge. Easy...

I can spray as thick or thin as you want. Goes on in coats like paint. I have sprayed Dump Truck beds up to 1/4" thick. Dries in less then 10 seconds.

Buck
#183

I went with the interlux,It is what it says a true bilge coat gas-oil resistent great clean up with dawn soap.Only wanted to do it once in my lifetime.:cool:

Buck,

Does that coating leave a smooth shiny surface?? Or a very rough surface??

Just interested since all the bed liner stuff I've seen had a fairly rough surface, that would be a little difficult to clean and would hold the dirt.

I am a sales rep for a automotive paint co.I have used epoxys and single stage urethane. using a sponge roller will work great, easy to clean up 2. A automotive jobber will most likely have a mix lying around that was a wrong mix and dump it off really cheap hope this helps a little

I can spray it either way. Most applications we texture. It's something we add after spraying the main part of the coating. It's actually just overspray layed on real thick.

When we spray dump trucks we leave the texture off so their loads will slide out easily.

I just sprayed some fiberglass truck fenders for a guy this week. I textured the outside for an even look and left the inside smooth so mud wouldn't stick as easily.

I wouldn't use this stuff for my bilge personally. But the question about the rub rail on the fishing would be a good idea.

Buck
#183

First off, i've never painted a bilge.

If you want to clean off oil and grease, trisodium phosphate (TSP) works great and its cheap (it's powder and just add water). You can purchase it at most hardware or paint supplies. The only problem with using a solvents like "mineral spirits" to clean oil up is, that it dilutes the oil anly smears it around; and it's flammable. With TSP, just wear good gloves and eye protection...it has a high Ph (it's an industrial strength "dawn" dishwashing soap.)

After cleaning, I would use sandpaper on the area. You don't have to sand hard, just make sure you sand all areas to help adhesion. If you don't do your surface prep correctly, no matter what you use the paint will fail.

For coating, an epoxy made for immersion service would be best to use. I did a quick search and a material from sherwin williams called "Dura-Plate 235 Multi-Purpose Epoxy" looks like a perfect material to use. The problem with some of these specialty epoxie's is...color selection.

Like a lot of others have said, use an organic vapor respirator to protect your lungs and health. Once you break the seal on the respirator, they don'tlast long. Have a buddy around while you work, who isn't exposed to the fumes. A good sign of vapor exposure is...singing while you work. :)

I could not agree more with cooked! "There is always time to do it twice, Never time to do it right!!!!!! I you do not properly scuff the area in witch you are going to paint NOTHING is going to hold up.Red(7447 3M) or gray(7448 3M) scotch brite works great or 320sand it after you have cleaned your area.Then after you sand or scuff it clean it again!RESPIRATOR!!!!!!!!