Hey Shooter, care to explain this . . .
 

The following is the rear main bearing from the Pantera. Why don't you and "those in the know, that know the real deal" explain how I caused this failure:

The real deal is either the crank was out of tolerance:

Or the thrust was never verified

I don't belive the seal caused the leak, just contributed to the problem. The engine ran perfect up to the minute I pulled it, no alarms or anything. Please don't make assumptions about me or the situation. Something was wrong, unfortunate, but wrong.

Sorry man,

Severe over-temping will cause a host of issues.

Not interested in sparring, you suggested I mind my own business. I offered a friendly "let's move on" suggestion. I can give and take advice.

Take care and enjoy the boat.

How much time was on the bearings? What brand crankshaft?

10 -14 hours, Eagle Crankshaft

uh-oh, what I miss?

If 130 degrees prior to shutdown is severe, then you're right Shooter. The loss of water pump occured at the ramp in a channel, I noticed it immediately due to the dry exhaust, idled the boat straight to the mechanic at the end of the channel. Never had the engine over idle. This was the very first launching of the boat after bringing it back from NJ.

Had the boat been at speed or any sort of load I could understand an over temp condition causing the bearing failure, but the boat idled in the no wake zone only. Hence my original concern about the rebuild. If it were a severe heat issue, there would be other damaged components, bearings, etc...which there are not.

Does any of this make sense or sound logical now that you are truly "in the know"? I'm not trying to be an a------, but I did nothing to cause this problem and resent your assertion that I did.

Did you have an oil temp guage?

My old 486" Twin turbo/700hp, did get hot after a 1/2 mile idle with bad impeller. My ehaust is at the water level so I never cought the dry exhaust.

I'm not a bearing expert but it looks like the wiped out thrust surface didn't see enough heat to turn black, indicating that there could have been an interference problem from the start. I had a rear main that looked similar to yours. A bad coupler is what caused the problem. The inner sleeve split around the circumference, the splines rotated enough so the imput shaft bottomed out when it was reinstalled. The motor ran perfect on the hose but when the drive was torqued it caused the interference problem.

The front side of the thrust looks normal (concidering the circumstance) my two cents

I agree with JimV. The engine heat probably had nothing to do with the failure. The thrust does look like a problem. Were any other bearings hurt? If not, the thrust is what I would suspect first. Did anyone check the thrust? Eagle cranks need to be checked thoroughly:( The bearing surface died from lack of lubrication. This could be because of low oil flow or even from the temp of the oil in this bearing caused by the thrust problem. The seal is crispy because of the crank getting hot from the bearing failure. Be SURE to verify the thrust clearance and that nothing forces the crank forward after install!!!!!!!!!!!
Also, the line bore can be off, the rear main bearing housing out of round, tapered, etc., the bearing cap not alogned with the bottom of the bore, the crank crooked, too many to list. A photo of the crank showing the bearing surface and the thrust surfaces might also help.
This is a bummer:hothead: but I'm sure we will all do what we can to avoid this in the future:D :D :D