Travis,
We run a solid roller using 7/16 Harland Sharpe roller rockers and 5/16 pushrods with chevy flat guide plates. The cam we run is an Erson 246/254 @ .050 on a 112 + 4 installation. We run 1.6 ratio intakes and 1.5 exhausts for .592" intake lift and .555 exhaust lift. We run the motor 6000 natural and 6500 on the nitrous. Just like Ratchet we have had no issues and are only replacing lifters and springs because we are going to some better heads after 7 seasons. It is your choice, but solid rollers are the way to go if you really want to maximize your efforts and you really don't NEED shaft rockers or stud girdles to do it. $200 will get you some Harland Sharpes and I feel they are better than Crane Golds. If you can afford shaft mounted rockers get them. If you keep it under .600" lift and stay around 5800 to 6300 RPM standard roller rockers on some ARP 7/16 studs will work great. Later!!
Craig

my cam specs are crane hydraulic roller.. 234/242 duration.. 539/.558 on a 112 LSA... I was just planning on running 1.6's (.575/.595) on both intake an exhaust like I ran on the last motor.

I was just trying to find a way to make a more stronger vavletrain, don't have money to rebuild if anything breaks :(


I found that crane make a gold rocker that is called a "wide body" which they say have 50% increase is bearing strength..

not to change subject.. what kinda spring pressures should I be looking to use with my roller cam.. Crane says 110 lbs (1.688") on seat and 320 lbs open pressure (1.208"). I am thinking these are a little light .. but maybe its just me... ????? my last cam was smaller and used more beefier springs...

Bearings
 

When I bought my rockers, I did a bit of looking around.........I've never used a set of HS's or Comps, so I don't want to spam anything bad about them. But when I chose the crowers (the aluminum 1.6 aluminums), I looked at the fact that they did use a larger diameter & wider bearings than the others. At the time, they were new for crower, but with as much luck as everyone had with the others, I decided to try these. I also looked at the fact that they were nicely clearanced for a large spring. I cant remember, I think they were around 300 bucks or so.

I have one here that I replaced at the rebuild that the tip wore a bit funny on, but if you wanted, you could check out. I noticed you're in Flint, which is less than an hour aways, so I'd be more than willing to meet you somewhere in between for a pop or 2 and give you this to compare to others if you'd like. I also have 2 sets of stud girdles with the nuts for heads with standard valve spacing that I no longer need & 2 sets of diamond (Made by Trend) pushrods - (my canfields were spaced a bit different), that I wouldn't mind selling. Just a thought if you wanna stiffen up any valve train.

PM me if interested.