Engine start up on stand
 

Looking for advice on starting up Gen V (changed to carbs) on a external stand. Not sure about ignition and wiring. Should I just disconnect the wiring harness from distributor and coil and wire separatly. If so do I need the Ignition module wired? Any advice is appreciated. Looking at wire diagram now.

Thanks

Ed

You really want the full harness to be installed. I've seen glitches in the stock harness that would have been a bear to diagnose in the boat. Get the plug and a harness and wire that up to a panel. Install a ignition switch, oil pressure, tach, and temp gauges. Take the alternator belt off so you don't have to worry about zapping it.

I have fired up a few Merc. motors while they were bolted into their shipping crates. All you have to do is hook up a battery to the starter positive side, ground to the engine, supply a switched 12 volt power to the #5 terminal ( ignition- purple wire) on the stock Merc. main harness plug. Then use a start button from the positive battery terminal of the starter to the start wire on the starter. Guages are nice, but it will run like I described.

Don't forget to hook up the water hose to the input side of the seapump.

Yes the hose is important!!! :D:D

I run mine like Checkmate has described. Got to Napa and get some battery cables for like 20 bucks and that will make it a bit safer. If you want to you can use a screwdriver to jump the possitive relay on the starter. Just use a jumper up to the + (purple wire). I start it up and when I want it to shut off I just pull off the wire. I also take a chaine and run it up to the rafters as a safty.

Jon

Audio;
I like your chain idea for safety. I never thought of that. It gets a little scary cracking the throttle open with the motor just sitting there in the crate. Thanks for the tip.:eureka:

I agree with Checkmate, but let me add something else.

We've test fired my blower motors in my garage several times successfully. Where I've seen people have problems is in the temporary fuel supply. People tend to think of this at the last minute and the results can be disastrous. I took an old aluminum 3 gallon fuel tank (GROUNDED!!!) and made a free - standing stand out of 1-1/4 angle. It works great.

Now if you think that's a waste of time, a very good friend of mine suffered second degree burns by using a plastic fuel cell. A static electricity spark ignited the tank. The dyno room burned up as well. Plastic tanks can spark very easily.

So I don't want to sound like Mr. Safety here, but you wouldn't go into a bordello without a pocket full of............ or would you?

Barry

Hello, Guys!
I used to teach high school. Two of my students built a 396 BBC per my advise. They couldn't wait to fire it so they rigged it to start on the stand. One broke both legs when he rapped the gas. The advise about fire is absolutely necessary. I would be afraid to start the engine with just a chain from overhead. If you must start the engine out of the boat, BE VERY CAREFUL and think before you try it:eureka: :)

Thanks to all for your help. It doesn't sound that difficult but let me add that I did purchase one of these stands that is supposed to have all guages, place for gas tank, battery etc. (longhord Manufacturing in Texas).

Ed

:D GOOD MOVE on the engine stand!! I feel better, now:D

I have done it both ways.. on a cart and a stand!! The stand was home made and excessivly heavy duty, but the chain was added to the overhead I beam for a Just in Case. I have used outboard six gallon tanks with the proper hose to the fuel pump.
I also just toss in a spare HEI GM distributor for the ignition, but I was just test firing the motor, not checking the boat wiring..

Good luck and be safe, by all means.

Dick

That is interesting OC Barry. I have done this a number of times in my garage, with a metal gas can sitting on the concrete. Never considered static. Everything worked fine. This weekend I have two engines to do in my shop. Everything is ready, first engine bolted in to 4x4 cradle and plastic gas can ready to go. Doahhhh. I guess you are saying I should use a metal can instead? This shop has a wood floor, so metal can will not be grounded anyway. Really no good ground close by other than the electric service ground. What does everyone recommend? Maybe ground gas can to engine? Advise welcomed as I'm askeart of the fire god!!

BT :cool:

Well B.T. since you live right up the bay from me, I have a vested interest in you not creating another atmospheric explosion.

Yes, you should go with the metal tank. On the plastic issue, there are even corporate warnings in big companies for their people not to fuel plastic gas can in the pickup bed of a truck with a liner. This too can (and has) cause a disturbance reminicint of the shuttle disaster.

What boat are you running. You'll have to come to O.C. this summer and run in the ocean with us.

Barry ('38 Cig. Top Gun, supercharged 750's)

I do not see how this is any different then running a outboard any day of the week either on or off the boat as far as this static thing is concerned. If you go to most stores all they sell for outboards is plastic cans. Wouldn't the same danger exist?

I also just use the chain as a safty and NOT to sapport the engine.

Jon

Thanks for the reply OC and Audiofn. I think I will switch to the metal can to be safe. I too have heard to put your gas can on the ground at the gas station and to not leave it in the trunk or on bed. Both are insulated from ground through your tires. Even the metal going through wood to ground will probably prevent any static build up.

OC.. I run a 30' Scarab Panther. Make it to the C&D often, but have never ventured down the Delaware Bay. May try it this year, we will see. Depends on how well I did over the winter on my engine projects. Do you ever make it to the Chesepeake Inn? We go there a lot.

Thanks again,

BT :cool:

Running motor on stand.
 

Running any motor on a stand is a little risky.
I know that you cannot wait to hear the bad boy run but do take a few minutes to get your arrangement as safe as possible.
It will only take you a few minutes longer and may save you from getting hurt or burned.
I run all motors on the ground before I install them.
I do take the time to block the motor and support it so there is no rocking at all. Some guys use a small support stand that they make up just for that purpose.
Take the time to get your fuel supply as safe as possible, have a fire extinguisher near by. You can also attach a push button starter swith to the starter and not have to play around with a screw driver.
My goal is to run them on the ground and identify any major oil leaks, fuel leaks, water leaks, engine wraps and valve train noises and so on.
When the big guys test a motor it is on a Dyno and they run the motor through a series of tests and know precisley what they have before they drop it in the boat.
Good Luck
Brian

Yes, take your time. I used to just set the engine on a pallet and support from an engine hoist. That is quite a thrill. This time it is in a cradle that mimics being in the boat, engine mounts and all, with all proper gaging. The cradle is then lagged to the floor. Should be much more relaxing today. My primary purpose for this is getting the engines through a heat cycle so I can retorque the aluminum heads. But I will also be breaking in new cams and checking for all the problem areas.

BT :cool: