Deep Cycle Batteries
03-11-2003, 08:55 PM
#1
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Deep Cycle Batteries
I've got dual batteries in my boat right now (group 24 unknown brand) and I would like to know what batteries will last the longest for running the stereo. I upgraded to 2 Rockford Fosgate amps and I'd like to run the stereo for as long as possible on one battery and then use the other for starting the motor. I've heard that the Optima batteries are good, but they are $175.00 each. I could go up to group 27 batteries but then I would have to get new battery hold downs. Any ideas?
03-11-2003, 09:02 PM
#2
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I run Optima red tops in my 272. I have a 400 watt Kenwood. So far so good,,, I got them locally for $105 a piece.
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03-11-2003, 09:13 PM
#3
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Exide makes a battery called the Orbital that uses spiral technology for vibration resistance. They work as well or better and cost less than an Optima. I can send you batteries for $91.10 each plus freight.
03-12-2003, 07:06 PM
#4
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Optimas and other spiral cell batteries (using AGM technology) will "last" for more cycles and will tolerate rapid charging better than any other readily available affordable battery technology.
What they DONT do is they don't offer as much punch per pound as a good old "regular" deep cycle battery. They offer incredible charge/discharge amperage rates, which makes them great for starter batteries cause you can get immense CCA's out of a tiny battery, but they do not offer extended power capacity in relation to TIME, as you would want in a hotrod stereo application.
A regular deep cycle Group 24 is 80 amp-hrs. at 50 pounds.
A regular deep cycle Group 27 is 90 amp-hrs. at 62 pounds.
A regular deep cycle group 30/31 is 108 amp-hrs at 72 pounds.
Any of the Optima or other spiral cell battery is around 55 pounds and 75 amp-hrs (but they have kickin' CCA numbers..).
If you are concerned with overall weight, you can use a smallish starting battery and a larger deep-cycle or "house" battery.
You'll get lots of recommendations, and I will not try to argue which battery is the "most superior".
Here's my recommendation:
Go to AutoZone and get a "Gold" 3-yr free replacement Group 24 battery to use as your starter battery. Tell them it is for your custom truck (give them the year and model to activate the warranty). Get another "Gold" 3-yr free replacement Group 27 or 30 battery to use as your "house" battery. It, of course, is for your other custom truck.
These batteries have 3-yr FREE replacement and a zillion months of pro-rated warranty.
Will they last as long as an Optima? Who cares? If they last 4 years, it will cost you around $17 each to replace them...
I've actually used gel batteries in boats, and AGM batteries in jetskis. I've had mixed luck with esoteric high dollar batteries. AGM's and gels both require tweaking of your voltage regulators to charge them properly.
Right now, I own 13 Auto Zone Gold batteries. The newest is 2 yrs old. The oldest is 5. Good batteries. No failures yet. If all of my boat batteries end up tapped out this spring, I could care less - I'll just make a run to the Zone and get them replaced for next to nothing.
What they DONT do is they don't offer as much punch per pound as a good old "regular" deep cycle battery. They offer incredible charge/discharge amperage rates, which makes them great for starter batteries cause you can get immense CCA's out of a tiny battery, but they do not offer extended power capacity in relation to TIME, as you would want in a hotrod stereo application.
A regular deep cycle Group 24 is 80 amp-hrs. at 50 pounds.
A regular deep cycle Group 27 is 90 amp-hrs. at 62 pounds.
A regular deep cycle group 30/31 is 108 amp-hrs at 72 pounds.
Any of the Optima or other spiral cell battery is around 55 pounds and 75 amp-hrs (but they have kickin' CCA numbers..).
If you are concerned with overall weight, you can use a smallish starting battery and a larger deep-cycle or "house" battery.
You'll get lots of recommendations, and I will not try to argue which battery is the "most superior".
Here's my recommendation:
Go to AutoZone and get a "Gold" 3-yr free replacement Group 24 battery to use as your starter battery. Tell them it is for your custom truck (give them the year and model to activate the warranty). Get another "Gold" 3-yr free replacement Group 27 or 30 battery to use as your "house" battery. It, of course, is for your other custom truck.
These batteries have 3-yr FREE replacement and a zillion months of pro-rated warranty.
Will they last as long as an Optima? Who cares? If they last 4 years, it will cost you around $17 each to replace them...
I've actually used gel batteries in boats, and AGM batteries in jetskis. I've had mixed luck with esoteric high dollar batteries. AGM's and gels both require tweaking of your voltage regulators to charge them properly.
Right now, I own 13 Auto Zone Gold batteries. The newest is 2 yrs old. The oldest is 5. Good batteries. No failures yet. If all of my boat batteries end up tapped out this spring, I could care less - I'll just make a run to the Zone and get them replaced for next to nothing.
03-12-2003, 07:35 PM
#5
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I've heard good things also on the Auto-Zone Gold batteries from previous threads, and I do need to replace my batteries this season and think I may try a pair of those......Fred
03-12-2003, 08:35 PM
#6
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Thanks for the input. Is there a problem charging two different size batteries with the battery switch in the both position? I have heard that the batteries had to be the same sizes and type (deep cycle or starting) if you are charging them or using both.
03-12-2003, 08:42 PM
#7
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You'd be far better served by using a battery isolator designed for a single alternator/double battery setup for charging, but in lieu of that, the BOTH switch will work fine for topping the batteries off.
Here's the catch: If one battery is nearly dead, and the other (starting batt) is hot and charged, then you need to start the boat on the hot battery and then switch to the low battery to let it charge. That way, the alternator will charge the battery at a normal rate (35 to 75 amps) instead of the battery being hit at 600 amps from the hot battery which is bad for both of them. This is the case regardless of whether the batteries are the same or different size and style.
Also, be sure to use a battery switch that goes OFF-A-BOTH-B so you never cross an open post while running the motor and swapping fro one batt to the other, else you can pop a diode (or triac) in the regulator.
Here's the catch: If one battery is nearly dead, and the other (starting batt) is hot and charged, then you need to start the boat on the hot battery and then switch to the low battery to let it charge. That way, the alternator will charge the battery at a normal rate (35 to 75 amps) instead of the battery being hit at 600 amps from the hot battery which is bad for both of them. This is the case regardless of whether the batteries are the same or different size and style.
Also, be sure to use a battery switch that goes OFF-A-BOTH-B so you never cross an open post while running the motor and swapping fro one batt to the other, else you can pop a diode (or triac) in the regulator.
03-12-2003, 10:04 PM
#8
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mcollinstn - I thought regular car batteries were not made to take the bouncing that occurs in boats, I thought that was the whole purpose for a marine battery was that they can take the bouncing around. You say that you have had good luck using a car battery in a boat? They will last a whole season? I did not know that. You learn something new every day.
I do have a question for you, with dual batteries, hooked up, to a battery switch, I am wanting to place a trickle charge on each battery, I will do one battery overnight and then do the other battery the next night. Do I need to disconnect the batteries from the boat or can I just leave them hooked up with the switch turned to the off position? Dumb question, I know, but to me a dumb question is one that is never asked.
I do have a question for you, with dual batteries, hooked up, to a battery switch, I am wanting to place a trickle charge on each battery, I will do one battery overnight and then do the other battery the next night. Do I need to disconnect the batteries from the boat or can I just leave them hooked up with the switch turned to the off position? Dumb question, I know, but to me a dumb question is one that is never asked.
03-12-2003, 10:23 PM
#9
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mcollinstn - one more question. Here is the way my battery switch is set up
2 off 1
both
I am using one cranking battery which is on switch 1 and one deep cycle battery on switch 2. If I start the boat with the cranking and then while the boat is running with the radio on can I safely switch to the deep cycle without damaging anything? Or can I start the boat on the both switch and switch to the deep cycle (switch 2) without damaging anything? Or vice-versa.
2 off 1
both
I am using one cranking battery which is on switch 1 and one deep cycle battery on switch 2. If I start the boat with the cranking and then while the boat is running with the radio on can I safely switch to the deep cycle without damaging anything? Or can I start the boat on the both switch and switch to the deep cycle (switch 2) without damaging anything? Or vice-versa.
03-12-2003, 10:48 PM
#10
Platinum Member
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As long as you swing the switch thru the BOTH position when swapping batteries with the motor running, you are fine. The trouble is when you swing it thru the OFF position when swapping batteries with the motor running. Do you understand the difference?
I've only destroyed 2 batteries from pounding and vibration. They were both in a 16' long 95 mph outboard padvee. I broke the stringers out of that boat with the pounding and I don't know if any battery would have done any better. The two batteries I shook apart were both Sears Die Hard Marine Deep Cycle batteries. AGM/Optima style batteries are the MOST "shakeproof" out there but buying one for that reason alone in a pleasureboat is misguided.
You should turn your battery switch to OFF when you store your boat. I'd also recommend that you buy an automatic 10-amp charger since a trickle charger is best used for maintaining abattery, not charging it.
I've only destroyed 2 batteries from pounding and vibration. They were both in a 16' long 95 mph outboard padvee. I broke the stringers out of that boat with the pounding and I don't know if any battery would have done any better. The two batteries I shook apart were both Sears Die Hard Marine Deep Cycle batteries. AGM/Optima style batteries are the MOST "shakeproof" out there but buying one for that reason alone in a pleasureboat is misguided.
You should turn your battery switch to OFF when you store your boat. I'd also recommend that you buy an automatic 10-amp charger since a trickle charger is best used for maintaining abattery, not charging it.
