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Never winterized!!! Now what should I do
Ok this winter I never got the chance to winterize the boat. I know I know stupid stupid stupid. It was stored inside all year. It was already in need of a oil change when it was put away. I used it late in the season and then the weather went sub archtic over night and snow snow snow and I was never able to get it pulled out of the shop so that I could do the winterizing. Anyhow what is my best means of trying to protect things as best I can. Should I suck the old oil out first and put the new stuff in? Should I just start it and warm it up then take the oil out? Anything that I should do to try and limit the damage that I may have done? I know the blocks did not freeze or crack as the boat is inside heated storage so I guess I have that going for me.
Jon |
Not an expert, but I think if you get oil on the cylinders ie: pull plugs and fogg the cylinders before start-up and make sure you don't flood it when initial starting you would be OK. :rolleyes:
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warm it up, then change the fluids and have fun. you aint going to hurt it anymore then you already have by leaving dirty oil in it.
seeya later ps i doubt that you have done any real damage to the motors by leaving dirty oil in it |
Definately get some oil into the cylinders and on the valvetrain before running.
Also a good idea to pull your kill-switch and turn the engine over a few seconds prior to start. Fresh fuel is a plus and getting rid of that old acidy oil is a good idea. |
if it was in a heated garage your good to go......run it till its warm change the oil and go!The only reason to fog it is to keep the cylinders from rusting when the temps fluctuate if it was in a heated shop your golden!
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Thanks guys. I will pull the distributers and pump up the oil with the drill, pull the plugs and spray some lube in there then turn it over a bit, put the plugs back in, then start it up and change everything out.
Jon |
Jon, please tell me you didn't leave any WATER in the motors!!!!!!
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untreated surfaces such as cylinder walls,open valves,ect will rust . heated garage, inside or out . the levels will be less sever in a controlled environment . the worst buy far is leaving the used oil in your engine . hydrocarbons brake down and enter the oil and it becomes acidic . acid will etch metal,dissolve,eat away. now realize that the engine bearings are a soft metal that is easily damaged by the mildest of acids even in a short time. food for thought.
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thanks mr outboard
i was wondering. is it better to change oil before winter.... or after, to get rid of the condensation that "dripped" into the oil from the block during season warmup. i suppose the anal retentive answer is both. but knowing the impact of the acid issue varifies the need to do it before storage. thanks boy was my boat sweating that first warmup day last week. could only imagine what the inside of the block looked like i suppose the condensation in the oil will just boil off on the first run. hey....I gotta go!!! gotta get the water out of my oil. it's a balmy 46deg around here and the ice is gone!!!!!! |
You should be ok. Squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders fired it up, warm the oil, then change oil.
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Jon,
As a "penalty" I think you should sit out the 2003 season:D :D :D No, seriously, do what Later said, you'll be fine. |
Hey! Audiofn!
Is this a Ford block ? ;-) ;-) What about some gaz line in the cylinders ? ;-) It would remove the water and the condensation? Dont you think? Anyways, if you have problems with the engine because of the negligence... I got a receipe against rattles and clicking noises : 1 pound of shortning 1 black banana 1 tube of bearing greasse Mix and fill in the crank case. Have a nice season... ;-) For the others, it's an inside joke between me and Audiofn. Serious, I would defenitly empty the old oil, fill with some cheap oil, fog in the cylinders, re-sintall plugs. Then, start your engine, let it warm-up a few minutes (dont forget to connect your drive to a water source! otherwise, say bye bye to your water pump). Flush the cheap oil and fill with recommended oil and change oil filter. Also, you should have filled gaz stabilizer before winter. If it is'nt the case, I recommend that you empty old fuel and fill with fresh juice before starting the engine. Give him a chance. See ya. |
GREAT! I have dirty oil in my motor also from last year> Opps:rolleyes:
I was just going to drian it all out, add fresh oil, squirt oil in cylinders n fire it up. OOOOOOOOOPS |
Cap...did you Fog your motor when you put it away??? or did you just run antifreeze thru it??
if you fogged it...then dont worry about squiting oil in the cylinders...that is what the fog does. I hope you even ran the antifreeze thru it...???? If not that work we did last weekend will not matter a bit. |
Pimp daddy HI-Perf What's uP?
Yes I fogged it and ran anti-freeze/ the NON green stuff through it HaHa! After it was stalled I pulled the plugs out also and squirted more fog into each cylinder. Only thing I did was leave the used oil in it. I was just going to fire it up let it run for 10 mins on hose than change oil n plugs. Or do you think I should chane oil b4 I fire it up? |
Cap,
There isn't anything wrong with leaving the old oil in the motor over the winter. If condensation found it's way in, then you have old oil to drain it out. Not new oil to run it through the motor when you start it up for the first time. That's the key however. You drain it out, replace with new and then run it through the engine. All that acid and condensate that has been talked about is sitting in the pan not hurting a thing. Drain the old, replace with new, if you can prime it, even better. Start it up and go. Same goes for you Audio, just make sure you have some lubrication in the cylinders first. DAVE |
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