Electric Fuel Pump
 

Did a search on this and have found many different answers.
What should I run for a stock 502 gen VI.
Changing from mark IV 454 so I had mechanical.
How are the Holley pumps?

Aeromotive gets my vote.

DAVE

I use the Mallory comp 140 marine pump keeps my fuel pressure at 8psi on my blower motor

Aeromotive
 

This pump is good up to 1200 HP, flows 500 Lbs/Hr at 45 PSI. Recommend a 100 Micron filter after the pump to protect injectors.

I'm running carb.

I just did the same thing (454 to 502) use holley blue w/ oil pressure safety switch.

Why blue over red.
I think the Red would be enough, no??

I used the same comp.140 pump when I had the 502 carb. GEN.5

Mallory 110 or 140. I've had no problems with Mallorys at all.
Be sure to use an oil pressure switch.
Gary

I run the Mallory 140 with no problems , although the next time I would go with a Aeromotive or Weldon.
Don't waste your time with the Holleys, in the race car day's I had nothing but problems with them. And if they worked they were noisey as hell.

Think i'll try a mallory 110.
Almost went with a aeromotive but buy the time i'm done with the pump,regulator and a new filter, it's over $500 bucks.

I have a mallory 140 with brand new reg for sale if interested. Pump has 1 season on it, I didn't use the reg it came with, it's new.
DAVE

Aeromotive? the guys runnig a stock 502 .....a little over kill I think.....I've had good luck with the Mallory 140 on a roller 502 making 525hp at 5200rpm.

I was thinking the mallory 110. but it seems most of you use the 140.

Dave F, what'ch you want for the 140 and reg you have?
which regulator is it? #4307 (2 port) or #4309 (3 port)

I have both, the 4 port/return and the one that comes with the pump. I used the 4 port, that's why the other is new. I still have that as well. You would only need the one it comes with if you're only feeding a natural asp carb. The pump has an internal bypass that you would have to reset. I closed off the internal bypass so the other reg could return back to my tank. I used it for a small Pro Charger. (It's just a "set screw" and nut on the base of the pump)

I haven't given it any thought about a price. Let me take a look at it. It's still in the box. Let me make sure everything is still there (it comes with barbed hose connections that I never used either) and I'll contact you by this weekend and we can talk about it.

e-mail: [email protected]

DAVE

Go with the Mallory Comp 140 marine, it comes with the regulator.
You will need a oil pressure switch & fuel pressure gage.
I have had great luck with this setup!

I was told by Paul Pfaff racing engines red seems to burn out before blue although blue is 15 psi you will need a pressure regulator to bring it down to 7.5psi.

price: $110 w/ regulator

I've got a new in the box Mercury Quicksilver electric fuel pump #805656-2 if interested. I bought it for my 454 mag late last fall.
Retail was $149.00 I'd take $70.00 if interested.

Can someone explain how the oil pressure switch works with the electric fuel pump? Is there enough oil pressure created when cranking the engine over when starting, to energize the fuel pump? If you lose oil pressure, does the pump shut down? Wouldn't this create a lean condition?

Hello, RLW,
The oil pressure switch is a switch that will disable the pump if the oil perssure drops blow the switch cut off point. You also need a relay. The engine will eventually make enough oil pressure to run the oil pump when starting. We usually run a circuit to the starter. If you loose oil pressure, you don't care if you get fuel or not, in fact, the idea is if you loose oil pressure and have a leak or fire, the pump will stop pumping more fuel on the fire. If you need more, pm. The options are too numerous and I don't know how to post the wiring diagram, but I will happily fax one to you!
One more thing, if you have a VI block, you could run a mechanical pump and save a ton of work and money and be safe and sure of fuel supply!!!

Thanks Blown 1500,
I am presently running a mechanical fuel pump. Have you ever heard of wiping out the cam lobe that drives the mechanical fuel pump due to to much spring pressure in the pump? It just happened to a friends motor when dialing it in on the dyno. It was a Holley pump. New roller cam.

I have seem some cam manufactures recommending there fuel pump push rod for use with there cam.

I tried a set of Red Holleys in addtion to the mech. for safety.
It was a pluming mess and just chewed my Batteries down.
Took them off......
I would just run a mech. set up

I had a little problem the other day with my fuel pump circuit. I kept on blowing the 15A fuse in my merc wiring harness. I called aeromotive and they said my A1000 pump pulls about 13 amps at 45 psi. I changed it to a 20Amp and now it works fine.

In talking to Aeromotive they suggest not using the std merc wiring harness for the power because the wires are too small. They recommend a 10 gage wire coming from the battery but being controlled by a 30A minimum relay which is controlled by the stock fuel pump relay.

It should be easy to wire up I will just take the fuel pump wires off the existing pump terminals and wire to the coil wires of the new relay. Then wire the 10gage wires through the relay to the pump. I will also put an in-line 25A (aeromotive spec) fuse in the 10 gage circuit.

The problem I have now is finding a "marine" relay that is rated as explosion proof.

Do they make a relay that is specificly made for marine?

Glad I found this thread, albeit too late. I still have a few questions.

My mechanic installed Holley Blue Marine pumps with regulators, setup for 7psi to Holley 800's on a Gen VI 502 with Dart H/R intake, and wired it directly to the coil. See this thread, just part of the reason why it should not be installed that way.

Painless Wiring makes a universal relay for a fuel pump, but I don't believe it's specifically for "marine" use, and I'm not sure what the mechanic is installing as a replacement, but I want it done properly and with the right parts.

Given the fact I now own 2 Holley Blue's, I'm going to stay with those but I'm unclear on the wiring piece, specifically how it ties in with an oil pressure switch. This would seem to keep the engine from starting in the first place, unless cranking builds up enough pressure in a second or 2. Right now I'm used to simply turning the key and it starts up immediately. An oil pressure switch with 3 wires (Common, Normally Open and Normally Closed loops) is what I would think he'd need, is this correct?

There is also an additional fitting/nipple on the pumps (it's a very small diameter), there is no hose attached to it. I'm assuming this is some sort of release valve, and a line must be run from it back to the tank, or to the carb?

Thanks in advance.

I'm going to use the painless kit. All the parts are sealer and the connections are going to get covered with liquid neoprene.
With the wiring, there should be a wire from the starter relay to the pump, so when the engine is being cranked there is power to the pump. when the key is released, that power is shut off and power from the oil pressure switch will take over.
The small port your referring to, I believe is what is used to adjust the buy-pass pressure in the pump. If you don't use a return line, this keeps the pump from building to much pressure.