Drive couplers don't need no grease!!
 

Decided to pull both drives to grease u-joints and check alignment before my 1st splash with the new boat.

What the hell makes someone take the time to pull the drives and grease the u-joints, but not even think about greasing the couplers??????:mad: Dry as a bone, both of them! Kinda makes one wonder what the term "serviced regularly" means?

Alignment tool would not even think about going in the coupler. So went to work and made a new one, but made it .005 under size just for chits and grins. Also turned up 2 dummy stubs to check the coupler itself, standard and .005 under. Neither would enter either coupler. The coupler splines all where sharp, input shaft looked great. Guess the lack of grease did a little number on the couplers. Decided to just reinstall drives and go till she goes. Drives went back on no problem.

Any guess as to what I'll be doing this summer. :(

Why would you wait till it strips before replacing the couplers? If they go while your running WOT.......bye bye engines! Or you could be 50 miles from home. Do yourself a favor and fix it now.

Does anyone know it there is a 'solid' drive coupler without the rubber and is this a problem?

If the coupler splines were "sharp", i would replace it. The should be flat on the top.

I have solid drive couplers on my engines with the Stellings extension boxes. I had some "Drive Savers" installed---it's like a 3/4" nylon/plastic dounut that bolts up between the drive shaft and the solid coupler that comes with the Stellings boxes. The Drive Savers I had to buy seperately and do NOT come with the Stellings boxes as of yet. They are supposed to help with dampening/shock effects as like the stock Merc drive couplers do.

I have a question? Which is better to use on the driveshafts....the kind of grease that is used in a grease gun?--- or is "Anti Seize" the better way to go. What are the Pro's and Con's of using either or?

Engine coupler
 

Are you sure that when you pulled your outdrives that you did not rock them to break them free? Sometimes the gimble bearing will move slightly or twist and not permit the alignment tool to enter the coupler. I woulld insert the alignment tool into the gimble just slightly back from the coupler and hit the tool lightly with a rubber mallet either up or down and I think you will be able to get the alignment tool back in. If you did not notice any vibration or find any black rubber thrown around your engine compartment or hatch, the gimble bearing could have been moved out of alignment and if so, your problem is gone. I have had this happen to me. good luck

Be sure that you rotate the crank several times when you are checking alignment. The coupler could be off-center slightly, which can allow the tool to slide in easily at one point, whereas it won't slide in X degrees of rotation from that point.

mARK I use heavy wheel bearing grease on the splined shaft and ,you know me a good syn. grease in my gun .
I also spray a heavy coat of sylacone on the rubber in the hub ,this stops dry rot and keeps the hub flexable :D :D :D
just my 01 worth:)

I use spline grease. If the points are showing on the splines US1 bite the bullet and replace them. Make sure you are doing what wildcard said.

BT :cool:

I always use the mercury spline grease on that. Greasing every several weeks during the season. It helps.