"HOW TOO" Increase fuel tank pickup
 

"HOW TOO" Increasing Fuel tank Pickup,

WITHOUT WELDING a new Bung to tank.
I added a 5/8" draw tube pickup to my fuel tank, and
This is what I did. I bought a 3/4" brass bulk head fitting.
I removed my fuel gauge sending unit.
This usually has a 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" hole.

I then used a cut up piece of card board, and covered it with a 1/8" layer of grease. (I used white lithium grease)
You roll it up so you can fit it in the sending unit hole. I also tied a piece of kite string in case I drop it in the tank...lol..
You then unroll it with your fingers, and position it where your going to drill the other hole for the bulk head fitting... This greased up card board will catch 99.999% of the drill shavings. What ever it doesn't catch, the filter will. (I used a hole saw)

I then snaked a piece of wire from the new hole to the sender hole. you use this to pull the bulk head thru and up into the new hole.
You set up the bulk head so the nut goes to the top side(outside) of the tank. Once you get the nut started and down finger tight, theres about an extra 1/2" or so of threads sticking up. this allows you to get a pipe wrench on it to hold while tightening the nut. Thats it, your done, just screw in your new draw tube....Oh ya, re install your fuel sending unit...


The Draw tube was made by Luthers welding. They make custom tanks, and draw tubes. He took a S.S. 3/4 NPT Bushing, (1/2'' NPT internal thread size) then welded a piece of 5/8 S.S. tubing. I had him make it a few inches longer, and I cut it to fit. Cost was $20.00, including shipping. then I got a brass street 90° with the 5/8" hose barb screwed into that.
Luthers Welding

The Bulkhead is a Parker 3/4" I picked one up the same place I have Hydrulic hoses made up. But you can order direct at this link, and it's $40.oo or so. Just ask to be sure it is the brass one, and it has 3/4" npt internal threads.
Bulk Head

The pictures to follow, also have some more info/instructions.
The entire project took 45 minutes.

Remember to be carefull!!! this is a gas tank...
Most tanks are aluminum or plastic, I wouldn't recomend drilling a Metal tank.

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Don't rank on me for the silicone job... I wasn't fancy about it because it's hidden under the floor panel.
I put a 1/4" beed all around the hole before dropping the tooth washer and nut. then I finger smeared it all around the nut :crazy: :rolleyes: :crazy:

I did this because what Procharger, and others don't tell you is that when you go with a high volume Elec fuel pump, like the Aeromotive 1000, The minimum Fuel line you should use on the Intake side of the pump is 1/2", they rather you use 5/8".
Not doing this results in pump cavitation, and eventually pump failier!!!! :eek: :eek:
On the pressure (outlet) side of the pump, 3/8" is fine. (depending on cu.in and HP of the engine), Otherwise you need 1/2" feed as well.
Good luck

What about gas fumes & the sparks from the hole saw or even from the drill motor?

I don't want to sound like the fun police but I have to admit I was thinking the same thing.:eek:

Aluminum doesnt spark and use a air powered drill.
later

"air powered drill"

True and a good point but I see some Dewalt yellow in picture #2;)

No chance of a Static spark??

Yes be carefull, I failed to mention I had a small rag/cloth rapped around the motor vent hole of the cordless, Just incase the motor had a stray spark. Much safer than welding:D:D

Opinion from a non-mechanically inclined person;
You could pay someone to do it and if they mess up they blow themselves up, then deal with THEIR insurance for the funds to get another boat. Am I being insensitive again as my wife says?;)




On the serious side thanks for the education guys!

She's right GLH.. you are insensitive.:):), But I'm willing to overlook your flaws. Just as long as you buy the first 2-3-10 drinks:D:D

Now that eveyone is aware of the spark dangers...........Nice job Kanookstr. Thanks for sharing the information with pictures.

Alchool fixes many flaws momentarly!!

Nice job!

Especially when it comes to how attractive the opposite sex looks:D :crazy: :D :crazy:

Kanookstr

Nice job... I did about the same, the main thing I did different was instead of going through the sending unit hole I actually cut a larger hole, and made a plate (using a sending unit gasket) with a standard AN bulkhead fitting going through it with a pickup tube screwed to the end. I did lock tight the tube, but this way with six screws I can take the entire pickup tubes in and out. This way I could use my AN fittings without having to grap them with pliers.

Doug

I thought of that as well Doug, But I didn't want to invest in the tool and nut-serts they use to attach the plate to the tank. I called a couple tank manufactures, and they said that just drilling and tapping the screws to the tank eventually would get play in them. My draw tube is removable without removing the bulk head. It's welded to the 3/4" adapter that's screwed to the bulk head.;):)