Replacing bellows
 

Got the old bellows off, and broke down and went to the library for a chiltons-like service manual. they talk about bellows adheasive, which I don't have, and the parts departments are closed now. What is the adheasive, can a generaic be found at a hardware store, and is it really needed?

Are there any tricks to getting the new bellows installed on a TRS drive.

thanks

I can not remember if you have the Merc Trans or the BW ones but if you have the Merc Trans then make sure that you do not loose the washer off the inside of the tail shaft. If you do you will rip the seal in the tranny.

I did not use the adhesive but I will the next time around. Got a little water in there. They are easy to do, just takes some time and if you can get some help that is a HUGE plus.

Jon

I've got the BW trans.

Is it a bushing or a bearing that supports the driveshaft at the aft end by the u joint? (The drive shaft is inserted through this ring before the splines are engaged). I hope that brass ring is a bushing, because I can't spin it

Chart take a look at your drive shaft. The drive shaft tapers out (gets fatter) on the splined area as you head towards the drive. Then it goes flat were the bearing sits. If that bearing is Seized you HAVE to replace it!!!!!! VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

Jon

We are thinking along the same lines. Yes, it is flat for about 3/8 of an inch, but shows no sign of wear now. I just found the holw in the bellows a few weeks ago, and there was water in the void around the drive shaft, fwd of the bearing/bushing. It could have seized just sitting during the winter with water from the fall. that is my second best option, first being it is a bushing.

if it is a bearing, it is completely sealed on the side facing out. No sign of any moving parts.

PICTURES PLEASE

Jon

okay

I drove a wooden wedge into the bearing/bushing, and it would not spin.

Yup that bearing has to spin. Lucky for you it can be replaced in the boat.

Jon

As Jon says, that is a bearing and it MUST be free to spin. When you have it out see if there is any trans fluid in the space behind it. The coupler that the drive plugs in to is steel and it wil rust and take out the oil seal. Here is a link to the breakdown, sorry the picture is not better.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...SSION+ASSEMBLY

Chart,
Did Todd up at 94 set you up with adhesive and a hinge pin removal tool?
Gary

Yes, Todd and I are becomming old friends. He also got me an out drive gasket and aft bearing for the drive shaft.


NEW PROBLEM: the tailstock bearing (the one around the female splined coupler) does not spin when the spline coupler spins. Please tell me I don't have to pull the engine to fix this, or that it does not have to spin, or that unicorns are real, something!!! Really, is there a simple way to fix this, or is it really a problem. When these bearings sieze under power, what do they take with them?

Sorry that the picture is small. the white writing says bearing, and the red writing says spline. When the spline spins (Turning the engine manually) the bearing does not. Please, someone, give me some real words of encouragement!

thanks.

I tried to blow it up a bit but I do not have much for pictures on this computer.

Jon

damn only the lightening took. However as I understand what you are saying the part with the spines turns but the piece JUST to the outside does not? Is this the same on both drives? Do you have a local shop that you can stop by and have a tech take a look? I know on the top picture that you have the bearing with the C-clip on it can come out with the engine in the boat. The other one I think has to have the engines pulled and the tail stock piece taken off to get that one replaced. Hopefully MBAM will respond for ya

Jon

bigger.

The center is the spline on the tail shaft, and it spins. the next larger silver ring does not spin. I trust this is a sealed bearing like the one I already removed because it was siezed.

I'm going to the family farm in the morning to pull the engine to access this bearing. Don't have a very good repair book, and welcome all advice.

Are those splines any good?

the picture does not do them justice. the splines appear good in person. thanks for asking though.

Chart if you need me to give me a call and I would be happy to fax you the pages of the manual that pertain to this job.

Jon

Just a thought. Since the bell housing and bellows are out, could you reach through the gimbal with a snap ring pliars to remove the clip? Then use a bearing puller to get it out the back?
BTW, if it goes, it will probably spin in the tailstock and tear that apart.
Gary

Oh Gary, this became a saga that deserves its own new thread. Yes, you can remove the snap ring, and then go look around the yard trying to find it when it goes zinging off the pliers. But, be careful what kind of puller you use, or you'll get to see the inside of the BW 72 trans to reinstall an expansion cup because you used an 1/4 drive extention and socket to pull against the middle of the splined coupler because you just knew it was solid. The new thread will include pictures. It will be titled something like "bellows warning to TRS owners"

But, even at that, the fwd sealed bearing can not be replaced through the gimbal.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...threadid=49383

Here is the link detailing the whole @^*%#^ $! process.

Yep, as you already know the engine must come out. If the splined coupler is worn on the OD put it back together in the bearing using some Loctite retaining compound. Most likely it will be rusted, good idea to polish it and replace the seal. Make sure to note the seal location as there is no shoulder, it will go in too far if you keep pushing on it.