Cam Break in ??? Need some advice
 

I have installed a compcams hi energy flat tappit cam in my 502. The shop did the actual cam install and I did all the exhaust removal and seat removal. I will be doing the break in as he doesnt have enough water presurre to cool it for the 20 mins required. Im a lil freaked out by all what Ive heard about the difficulty and risk. The shop ower say just be sure it fires up right away and hits 2000 rpm asasp. His employee thinks they should install light v.springs for the break in and i bring it bcak and have him install the dbl set it needs. If I go his route i will have to remove all the exhaust etc and pay them for the extra work required. So many ppl have told me things can go for **** in a hurry breaking in a fairly large FT cam. FYI the lift is around .570. Any help will be appreciated. sj

The safe way is the way they said but you can do it your way if it has good lube on it and it starts and runs right away ,also I would buy some GM engine oil supliment to add to the oil for break in of the cam ,I think it helps that :D

I did mine on my shop floor a couple months ago. Comp Cams with .564 gross lift. Did not remove the inner valve springs. Started right up, ran it to 2000rpm, slowed for 5 or 10 seconds at a minute or so in to tweak the timing, and then let run for 25 minutes at 1800-2000rpm. Both engines are in the boat and running great. One nice thing about going to the extra work to change the springs is you can re-set the valve lash and retorque head bolts at the same time. Then again, you can do those without changing the springs like I did.

BT :cool:

I have never changed springs & have lost a few cams. Since I started using the GM lube & also used quaker state motor oil for break in I have not lost one yet. I was told either Penzoil or Quaker State were the best oils to use to break in. S

I used the red assembly lube that comp cam supplied with the cams and 30wt quaker state for breakin.

BT :cool:

Me too, except I use Pennzoil 30. So far, so good. Knock on wood.

thankguys........ill give er a go

We keep used to keep a set of 1.55 rockers around for the not too radical engines (big block is normally 1.7), reduces lift and load for break in, easier than changing springs. But kept a set of worn out outer only springs for the big stuff. As we always did a retorque it was not that much extra work.

I guess im gonna be a chicken.... the shop convinced me to run it around with the soft springs for a few hours. Guess Ill have to hold off puting the back seat in for a week. I installed the new manifolds last year without taking the seats out in 105 degree weather. Id sooner get circumsized... again ,than go thru that 1 more time. I was thinking about getting those v covers with the removable tops so i dont have to yank the manifolds to do the v springs .At 380 bux no thanks. Thanks for the help guys sj

SMART MOVE :D :D :D

did you know that the stk rockers bind when you us more than 570 lift? Guess who now has roller rockers and 400 less bux?

Safe bet is to use the GM EOS (engine oil supplement) Mr Daniels recommends. It has anti scuffing agents that will help keep the contact surfaces between cam and lifters from galling. If you run the outer spring only, remember not to over-rev.

The recommended procedure is to make sure timing, carb, etc are ready to go. Start engine and immediately run up to 2000 RPM, working the engine between 2000 and 3000 or so for about 20 minutes, then shut down. Check valve lash and note any signifigant changes. I like to witness mark the rocker nuts with a little dab of paint so I know if one has backed off. If there is any major change, you may have a lobe problem and it is better to find it now than to run the engine with glitter floating around.

BAM Motorsports from The Cup Series?