496 on a budget?
 

Well most of you guys know a couple years ago I went through my 330's and built the infamous 330's on roids, one of them has been bullet proof the other a festering boil on my a$$. If things don't turn around, this winter I may go back in again and go for the gusto.... a pair of 496's. Help me put together a good package on a budget (the wife will kill me) but if I need to what the heck. I have the top end covered Merlin ovals a rpm intake 850 holleys, Emi exhaust and msd ignitions. So whats the best way to go without killing my check book? What do I need to do as far a machining on my blocks? clearancing? can I use my stock pans? Any info will be great I'm sure I'll here from the motor guys Blown 1500 and Bobby but everyone give me there ideas!!
Thanks Don

Dyno,
I have a 498" chevy that I made from my 330 block. It has a 4.25" stroke Eagle crank, Eagle 6.385" rods, and 4.32" bore SRP pistons. You can run the stock pan and shouldn't need any block clearancing. I am running a 10qt Dolley pan, but the stock pan will work. I know everyone rips on Eagle cranks, but so far I haven't had any problems. If you go the Eagle or any other "cheap" crank route be sure to check the crank dimensionally before installing. My motor turns 6300 RPM when it is cool out and 6100 on hot summer days. The motor is 13.2:1 compression with a solid roller cam. One thing my engine builder did to help my bottom end was dowell the main caps then align hone. This keeps the caps still which helps the bearings under extreme loads. Strokers make for some nice torque and a great marine engine. Good Luck!!
Craig

Thanks Craig thats just the kind of reply I was looking for!!!

My favorite motor is a 496 they are cheap and do everything well !!!
I would use a good crank ,((luniti,,callies dragon slayer)) eagle or
manley rods and J&E pistons and good cam and hang on .
Eagle has a o.k. crank its just its not machined as well as these others .
Use your pans,starters ect.

4.25 stroke /60 over 454 piston

I dont know how to post a link so look at ebay item#2418592497 tell me what you think!

The 5140 crank is cast steel.

All of those parts are stronger than stock GM

The machine work needs checked very well before assembly.

That stuff is plenty strong for a N/A pump gas deal.

Internal balance will require a different balancer and flywheel.

ttt

Since this is a budget buildup, how about cam choice? Is it worth doing the machine work etc...going to a roller setup, or do you save the money and go with the original flat tappet setup? This is assuming your block in a Gen VI or V (mine is a VI).

Dyno,
why the rpm intake ? With the Merlin ovals don't you think you would be better off with something like the Brodix intake or at least a Team G ?

well I ran a Dart single plane once before and was disapointed in it I like the midrange with the dual plane. I dont run my motors over 5200rpm....but I'm listening......

Dyno,
If I remember correctly, you and I are both slightly over-carbed running 850 holley's on 461's. Combine that with the heavy weight of a Sonic (or in my case a Formula) and a single plain manifold, I think it just wouldn't have the midrange. If I'm not mistaken, can't you more easily get away with a large carb on a dual plane than a single plane?

5200rpm's ? That's where thier just starting to run good:D

I was under the impression you would be spinning it higher. That is why I thought the single plane would be better than the dual.

On my version of Dynos 454 on roids I ran a match ported oval port Holley Strip Dominator manifold with a 750 DP. The boat ran awesome from 1500 to 5400 RPM. Smaller boat though.:rolleyes:

that motor was in a 25 checkmate with a single roller 502...I'll be using flat tappet cams.

dyno, did you find more oil in the bilge? Remember, Simple Green works wonders.... ;)

I was on dyno's boat this past weekend, it does run strong - very nice!

Mike the Bilge looks like hell it may take all summer to get all the oil out....simple green and a wet dry vac!

Just get the Mrs down there with a big bunch of towels! Tell her you'd do it, but you don't fit; since she's so nice and skinny, she should have no problem slipping right in there! :D

I tried that on my wife once, and I've still got the scars.... ;)

OK back to the subject....should I have the mains doweled before its line bored? whats that cost????what other mods should be done to the block to make this thing BULLET PROOF!!!

I've found Callies Dragon slayer Cranks and rods the cranks run $810 and the rods are $499 anyone know where I can get a better deal???

If you have 4-bolt mains and you are keeping pump gas compression with maximum RPM at or below 5500, you certainly don't need the mains doweled. I think my engine builder charges around $225 to install the dowell tubes and align bore. If your blocks have 2-bolt mains it is highly recommended you get them doweled especially before stroking.

so where would you spend the money for the dowels?over 6000?and say 10:1....

I personally would put the dowel tubes in any motor that is going to be used as a HP motor. A buddy of mine just built a 700HP 468 blower motor and chose not to tube the mains due to the added cost. It is kinda like hydraulic steering on a 70 MPH boat. You don't NEED it, but it is recommended. It depends on the budget for the project.;) There are a lot of guys not running doweled main caps with no prob with big HP out of stock blocks.

What is a doweled main cap?

ttt

Dowell tubes are put in the block around the bolt holes and matching female bores are put in the main caps. The main reason for these is to hold the cap still under exreme RPM or crank loading. They do positively locate the caps so once they are installed the motor must be align bored to assure everything is straight.

dyno,

why not find a couple of gen v 502 blocks to put the stroker cranks in? then you will have a 540 that you can put your heads, intakes, carbs, oil pans and accessories on. you will then have 2 perfectly good shortblocks to sell that should easily bring enough money to cover the cost of the 502 bare blocks.



p.s. - don't sweat the torque of the 540, bravos are rebuildable. you might as well go balls out, that will be the only way you will be satisfied.

Bill the thought has crossed my mind!

Budget? We don' need no stinking budget,,,,,,,

BG111 is right on the money with his statement, easier to sell 2 short blocks than a bunch of pieces parts.

heck If I used the blocks I have the cast crap left over aint worth nothing anyway. a used 502 block is $500-$750 plus I have to go down south to get one you do the math...a used 330 shrt block aint worth that.

I started My project as a 496, 4.25" stroker crank and longer rods in my gen 5 454 and decided that $500.00 more for the added cubes and gen 6 block was worth it .He has the gen4 setup, fuel pump etc. I assume ,so the cost would be even more .Gen 4 502 blocks or Bowtie blocks that can bored to 4.500 are rare!

Rob

dyno, you are gen v aren't you?

Re: 496 on a budget?
 

Well I'm kicken this Idea around again....anyone else care to ad to the advice????

Re: 496 on a budget?
 

here's some cheap stuff, both done for automotive but still cheap:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT