Just to be sure, why don't you also check the timing at 3000 and 3500. 34* at 3500 and let the initial fall where it wants.

I was playing with the distributor and the engine sounded best at 34*. I also set the timing without the light and just used a vacuum gauge at idle. I twisted the distributor around until I saw the highest reading on the vacuum gauge. Then I rechecked timing with light and it was showing 34* while fully advanced. I`m leaving it alone until I can hit the water tomorrow and do some real-world testing.

DonMan, 34* should put you right in the ballpark. You won't hurt the engine and it should perform well enough at that setting. Do not rely on where the engine sounds best or the vacuum reading at idle. Those methods of timing an engine are for people that don't understand what a timing light is for. Trust me on this one. And, as 220BR says, you should check the timing at 3500 as well to be sure that full advance is achieved at 2800 rpms.

THRILLSEEKER, A good advance timing light is necessary to check the total advance on most engines. The reason you cannot use a standard timing light to do this is because the degree marks on the timing pointer do no go high enough. Most BBC pointers only go to 16*. It is a good idea to check the accuracy of the advance timing light, though. You can do that by setting it to zero and using it to see what the degree of advance is at idle by reading the marks on the pointer. Then adjust the advance light to that same degree reading. If it is accurate the timing mark on the balancer will line up with zero on the pointer.

A good digital model that has a good price is the OTC 3368. It has a very sensitive digital tachometer built in and is available for less than $150.00. Most auto parts stores can order them or most mobile tool distributors can get them, also.