Outdrive play??
 

I don't know if this is normal but I have an 89 formula 206 with either a bravo 1 or an alpha 1 I don't know. I haven't put it in the water yet but when I move the outdrive from side to side it moves about 8 inches and the steering wheel doesn't turn?? is that normal it seems like at stops at one way but then can push the other way. my father said he thinks it supposed to be like that and the force of the prop will bush it to one side, But this bothers me?? any help would be appreciated thanks !!!!

8" is way too much. Could be the steering cable is stretched out or broken.

Bravo one will say Bravo One on it. Alpha will say Alpha. Bravo is much bigger drive also.

Common problem, easy solution. Pull engine, remove transom assy, replace gimbal ring, steering lever and pin. Reinstall engine. How can you buy a boat without knowing if it's an Alpha or a Bravo?

Thats an easy fix ??? Man , what do you call tuff?

Easy to fix! Don't pull motor!!!!!
 

First, DON'T PULL THE MOTOR...... DON'T PULL THE MOTOR.....

My tiller arm and upper swivel pin had the same amount of play, and here is what I did to repair without pulling the motor.

First, remove the drvie from the transom assembly.

Now, you will use the two lower bolts just under the rear engine mount to hold the inner transom plate/motor in place. Remove the top bolts and all the nuts from the inside and carefully loosen the the lower two bolts while pulling the drive from the outside. This will leave the bolts sticking through the transom holding everything in place. In my case, I didn't even need the bolts there as the weight of the engine against the angled transom kept everything in place.

Now, make your repairs to you steering.

Note!!! This procedure will work if you have an angled transom! Not sure of a straight transom????

Unless it has been replaced with a Bravo, a Formula 206 will almost always have an Alpha1 with probably a 350 Mag. It will have a straight Transom with the Silent Thunder Platform above it. As stated 8" is far too much. My friends Donzi had the same problem at the end of last season. Didn't realize it and it Chine walked so badly up around 70 (500 EFI) that I almost poo'd myself. Took the boat out and could do the same thing. It could be the cable, but there is something on the Gimble that goes. I think Merc makes a repair kit because you can't get at it. Not real sure how it works, but I know you have to drill a hole to fix it. Not sure if it is the same on Alpha's, but there is the kit for Bravos. My buddy had to do it then he added external steering for safety.

First, Welcome bowtie89.

I'll bet you and I are the only ones here with a 206 Formula. Follow this link to see my Formula Iggy's F-206

If you have the 350 MAG engine, then you have an Alpha drive.
Like Waterfoul said, it will say "Alpha" on the drive, as long as no one removed the decals.

Can you talk to the previous owner?
How many hours are on the boat?
Do you know if the steering cable has been replaced?
Do you know if the steering system in the instrument panel is good? They too wear out.
Have you checked the power steering ram for loose bolts?

If the tiller (steering arm) or gimbal assemby is worn it would be easier (in my opinion) to replace the entire assembly. Mine has play but not as much as yours. I also have play in the upper and lower steering shaft bushings. To me it would be quicker to just replace the whole thing. A rebuilt transom assembly goes for about $1200.00.
I like patrick22309's way of pulling the assy. off the transom. The usual way is to pull the engine out first.

Let us know what you find.

BTW, where you at?

Hey whats up!! I will be posting pictures as soon as I can get the developed and scanned since I don't have a digital cam

hauling the engine
 

Well we thought about drilling the holes in the housing, thats seems a little much becuase you need special tools. We are going to haul the engine and get to it that way. We should be able to pull the housing off and then get to the worn parts that way. any suggestions on what we have to take off or tips on doing it we have acces to lifts and stuff for the hauling of the engine. How long is this gonna take???

Engine Removal Options/Prior Post
 

I posted early on in the tread and this weekend I did it again.

I successfully removed my entire drive to install a new inner transom plate that was cracked. Here is what I did.

Removed the drive/transom assemble leaving the leaving the thru-transom bolts in place. Put the engine crane on the engine rear lift bracket and loosened the front engine mout nuts, removed the rear engine mout bolts. I then removed my exhaust tips so the engine would tilt forward when I raised the lift. Bam, the inner transom plate came out without problem.

You can do the same thing to repair your drive without removing the engine and you probably will not need the crane. It is very easy and I see many of the best local shops in the DC area doing it this way. In fact, it was a shop exclusive to off-shore racing that showed me the trick, they said they have not pulled a motor to repair drive/steering parts in years.

Do it this way, quick and easy unless your engine needs some work. Even the steering arm and upper swivel pin are easy to repalce once on the work bench and all you need it the tool for the gimble bolts.

When I had a 211 Liberator, I could have the motor out in an hour. Needed a new coupler and had the entire job done in 3 hours (in the rain no less). Not a lot of wires, but make sure you mark them. I ended up pinching my trim sender wire when I put the motor back in, and that is a ***** to replace. Also, make sure you align the motor when you put it back in, otherwise you'll eat couplers. Well you have it out you may look into replaceing the back motor mount bushings. You'll need to have them pressed out, but they aren't expensive, and if original, they are probably due.

No offense to anyone but, you are telling him to repair this himself? When he doesn't even know how to tell one outdrive from another? My advice is, take this to a professional. Steering on a high performance boat is nothing to screw around with.

It was painted and this is my first boat I am very good with my hands and tools I pulled the engine from my truck!!!!
plus my father just pullled the engine from his 28pc and put new heads on it he is helping me its not like I am doing it alone. he just isn't into the whole computer thing!!!!

I didn't mean my comments in a disparaging way bowtie. Intelligence and mechanical ability is not the same as knowledge. I was mearly pointing out you didn't have much knowledge of outdrives, transom plates and steering systems in boats. This isn't meant to reflect on you negatively, everyone has to start somewhere. i am mearly saying, with your lack of knowledge on these systems, do you think it wise to fix it yourself, in the light of this could really hurt someone if you were to get it wrong? Not to mention you are opening yourself to a huge liability if someone gets hurt. At the least I would have someone qualified look at your work after you make the repairs and sign off on it. That would be what, maybe 1/2 hour labour at a boat shop?

Iggy and Bowtie89,
There are three of us on this board with Formula 206s. I purchased my 1986 new and have had it ever since. BTW my alpha1 has developed some slight play in it so I am following this thread with interest. I only have 165 original hours but down the road this may be helpful. Great boat, cant wait to see how it runs with the new 383 in it.
Bob

rm builder
 

Let me know how difficult it was, and what it takes to put a 383 in the boat. I am very interested in the speed differance

Bowtie,
The engine change is pretty much a direct bolt in. My stock engine is the original 1986 with a one piece rear seal but that was a transition year and that block was not set up for the hyd. roller which I am running. Instead of running a retro roller kit I found a 1988 four bolt and did all the necessary machine work and set up the short block with the 3.75 rotating assembly. That keeps the boat in the water until the engine change and the original short block will be crated for another day. Then all I have to do is swap out the intake,starter, etc and good to go. My biggest concern is the durability of the out drive with 100-120 additional HP. Drive shower is a very good idea. As far as top end goes im right at 59 mph stock and my target for the new setup is 70 mph. The hull is rock solid at speed so I think 70 should still be comfortable. I left at least 50 additional potential HP on the table in my build in favor of bulletproof reliability.
Hope this helps,
Bob

thats way too much slop and dangerous....if you wanna do it yourself do something first.....try to go somewhere and watch a pro do the job first....maybe he will even let you help him for free. Even if you gotta pay him to let you watch you should do it.....it will make it much easier for you to see the entire process done so that you understand the proper way to do the job...theres lots more involved in it that there is in pulling an engine or putting on a set of heads. But yes...with some common sense it can be done by an amatuer.....who knows...you might end up in a little "side business" of doing it for others afterwords. There are some special tools made for some of the process at merstuff.com. His name is Mike and he makes them himself. He also sells all the parts you will need. Hes a pretty busy guy though and would'nt have the time to explain the whole process to you however. Personally I think he ought to put out a "how to" book on it and sell it with the parts and tools all as a kit.......maybe you can find some pics and a good explanation of the process somewhere on the net...good luck

I AGREE IF YOU DON'T KNOW A LITTLE SOMETHING WITH EXPERENCE. THAN DON'T TRY THIS ONE YOUR SELF! IT'S A LITTLE MORE THAN CHANGING THE OIL! RB