Exhaust Headers Alignment
 

I have a problem I just built a very nice motor in my boat and noticed a problem, the exhaust header alignment. I know I should of thought about this problem prior to putting the motor in the boat, but that is another story.

Here is some history of the setup, it used to be a 502 with silent choice so the exhaust had the combo Y-pipe and corsa diverters, that setup worked fine. With this motor i decided on a stroker motor 540ci with the blower, etc...

Now my problem is that i all ready purchased the IMCO Powerflow headers and my alignment is off and I need some input on my options, more importantly someone who has been in this situation before.

I have posted some pictures of what it looks like in the boat, never mind the wires everywhere the whole boat is being re-wired with a new harness.

Another one

I don't feel so bad now, I just rebuilt my motor & "studded" the heads instead of bolt..damn studs & nuts stuk up high enough that I could't get my CMI headers mounted. I had to trim the exhaust flanges.
Would that Silicone Exhaust hose advertised here on OSO work?
Good luck
John

Your simplest solution would be to have a local shop make some "offsets" from 4" stainless tubing that attach between the tip and pipe with short lengths of hose for joints (if you have enough length in the gap). The best loution is to return the tailpipes and have a set made that will line up.

-Greg

That's what I did in my Formula. I originally used regular rubber exhaust hose which burnt through in about 8 miles of 3000 rpm:( .
It just couldn't handle the exhaust blowing against the side. Yet , believe it or not , I can easily touch the stainless pipe anytime:confused: Probably because the metal conduct heat away from on central spot and the water going by keeps it cool:cool: . Where as the rubber is more of an insulator and doesn't conduct hot or cold as well , and the heat was concentrated in one spot:(

I am concerned about heat generating in the custom bend if I go that way. Am i wrong to think that the bend will cause turbulents and kind of stifle the hot exhaust from exiting the header. Will this turbulent cause additional heat.

I appreciate all your input, but I plan on running this motor hard, and need to be sensitive to heat.

Thanks guys.

Nice mo mo's mopower do you regularly clean those with a toothbrush? Nice!!!!!

How much restriction/turbulence an offset will cause is directly related to how sharp the turns are. If you have little length to work with and need sharp turns they will cause more than if you have a lot of length and can do gentle turns.

The easiest way I know to mock it up is to find some foam pipe insulation that is about the same OD as your exhaust, stuff a length of 1/16" piano wire lengthwise into the foam, and bend one up so you can look at it. The piano wire will make it hold the shape so you can take it to a pipe shop to duplicate.

What is the "fore-aft distance" of the gap compared to the "offset" required? You can't get much depth perception from the head-on photos.

-Greg

I will be at the lake this Friday and will take some better pictures of the boat. Unfortunately the boat stays in the garage 5 hrs away from me till the weekend.

I will try and get some better pictures and postem this Friday.

I like the piano wire idea.

You can barely see the edge of the boat in the upper right hand corner. I beileive i have about 10 to 12" of space to work with the end of the riser to the tip of the exhaust tip.

They were brand new in April. and due to the sucko weather on the east coast this spring only have less than 5 hrs so far. The intakes and t-stats are powder coated;)

Greg, My Formula has a 2 1/2" offset in the 1 foot length of pipe and they are also 540's. Also don't forget you come out of the elbow at 3" and dump into 4" pipe. I can't tell how close your elbows are to the stern due to the angle of the picture. , but unless its less than 6" I wouldn't worry about it.

You may be able to correct some of this misalignment by slightly rotating the tail flange to manifold joint. You can enlarge or slot the holes in the flange.

I had a similar prob with my CMI"S...my trans tips hole were 1/2" lower then a stock bravo setup and I have merlin heads which are 1/4" taller. Same cenetr to center as a bravo. Wound up using custom tail pipes , flex hose connectors, and floating tips. Took forever to get CMI to make em right. If you can get a Bravo template it will tell you were the holes are drilled. Then call Stainless Marine and they can whip you out a set.

Thanks you guys, I will let you know what I find out. you all have been great. Who knew that boating would be so much fun on line.

Anyone interested in a good deal on billet speaker covers check out the sight then PM me for your price.

Thanks again.

Progress on Tips
 

DanB

I took your advice and took lots of pictures with measurements and sent them off to Stainless Marine. Daryl and his boys came up with making custom exhaust tips with flaps that will be secured with a beautyring. They will basically slip in one piece.

They should have them done in about another week, I will post the pictures in a new thread to show the final product.

Thanks again all you OSO'ers for making this problem not as dismal as it first seems.

You are the best!!!!!!!:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D :D :D :D

Glad I could be of help...if you gave em the right dimensions they'll send you a nice set. They do good work.

Dan