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Correct Crazyhorse, it's a beeitch to do with my manifolds although it would be easier......I am going to pull the valve covers and see if they (the lifters) are pumped up then I might tighten exhaust back up and set with engine running big blocks don't blow oil everywhere because of the canted valves do they?......if so I will just re-set and try it again....Fred
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oh yeah, they make a huge mess. call me.
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Don't need no stinking mess....what time do you want me to call you?...on your cell or home?....I have both numbers.....I think I will be resetting them cold....Fred
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I do need to make sure the oil is getting to the valve train componets....I'll get that figured out first.....Fred
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Sorry Fred, we've been playing phone tag today. I'll be around all weekend and I'll have my celphone with me. Call anytime.
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I make a carboard box with opening where the adjusting nuts go. I remove valve cover, put this box over & it catches most of the mess
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You can buy little clips for the ends of the push rod to control the oil flow with covers off (autozone). Cost very little. The only time I had lifter noise I couldn't easily solve it was the valves hitting the pistons. Hope this is not your problem!
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Fred,
this is what I do when I build my boat motor. With the spark plugs out and the coil grounded I spin the motor with the starter. A couple of spins and I get 20 psi on my guage and oil squirting from my rocker arms. I set all my valves up cold by rotating the motor and adjusting per the manual the ones that line up with the timing marks. You spin the motor again and then adjust the next set. I think it takes 4 spins per the mannual. I then check my valve adjustment with a compression check and i know the engine has oil and compression. I then set the timing marks and drop the distributor and it is always pretty close. Just how I do it before I fire it up. I am sure someone has a better way. Good Luck Don't burn up the starter. give it some time to cool. |
Thanks to all for the suggestions, I am all set now, Thanks again, Fred
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