Electrical Dash problem, help needed
 

My 88 28' Scarab Excel has a fancy "waterproof" microswitch/relay dashboard instead of regular switches, controlling blower, bilge pump, lights etc.. And they work less and less as they should, sometimes they don't work, sometimes they start "automatically". Right now only the blower works. I'm tempted to rip it all out, and make a new panel with ordinary switches, but of course I'd rather it just worked.

Anybody had the same problem? Any solutions? Thanks

Do you have any pics of the switches? I have the ones left over from my 88 scarab dash redo. Maybe they would work better.

Dave

Sounds great, can you see the attached photo? It's not super, I'm talking about the console just to the right of the wheel. It has 8 rubber buttons, 2 big on top, and then 3 each side. If you need a better photo I can get it tomorrow.

I can't see it very well Great Dane. Post a better pic. Mine had push button rubber covered switches, push button square switches and illuminated toggle switches.

Dave

Blue Thunder, here's a picture taken on a wet windy evening :-)

It is rubber push buttons. I don't have toggle switches, but maybe that's for the panel left of the wheel, see original photo, because I know the previous owner changed that entirely. I'd be interested in both panels, but most of all the one in this posting's picture.

Thanks

Great Dane I had trouble with mine also. This is a electronics circuit board behind the panel. What I use to do is take the connection on the back and each one connector take it on and off to make a better connection. this has helps some . My blower and bilge switches were the worst. This was a poor design in my opion ,looks cool but need mechanical switches. They also made a key less initition with a credit card thingmejig. I figure it prob went bad also.

They do NOT like to get wet ,even though they look water proof there not.The few times mine got moister on them the would quit working.Becarefull with the screws on these panels they crack very easy . just hand snug them.

Great Dane post some more picks .I would like to see more.
Rob

One more pic

..and one more pic...

Doesn't look like I can help you Great Dane. I would suggest a liberal application of some contact cleaner behind these switches, if possible. Works wonders on industrial machine controls. Be careful if you do this making sure to use a type or contact cleaner that will not hurt plastic.

Good luck,

Dave

The back of the panel has a foil backing on it .I think the cleaner may hurt it????

Great Dane,

Cool looking dash!!
I have the same boat, had the same problem.
Infact, ran into a problem with not only switches, but also gages. I disconnected all the leads & grounds, cleaned & reconnected, everything worked fine.
What are you running for power?
I run a 550hp 502 in mine. It's a fun boat, flies nice & handles the sloppy water real well.

Tom

Thanks TomR.

Well I just bought the boat, and it's on land for the winter, so I'm not really sure what it'll do. It has a 502 and a overdriven Weiand blower with Dominator, so 550-600 HP should be possible. We had one fast trip, no GPS and no speedo, but sticking your head into the wind, it felt a lot faster than my previous Bayliner that did 50 mph.

So you have the same boat. Anything about you can share? Data, pictures of it from new, brochures, manuals, prop selection? Anything will be appreciated, I'm new to going fast on water, and here in Denmark where a gallon cost more than $5, there aren't that many boats like it. It's probably among the 10 fastests in the country.

Tom, are you out there? ;-)

Great Dane,

I've had the boat about three years now.
I have a natural aspirated 502ci that was done over.
I'm running about 9 to 1 compression, custom ground CompCam roller cam, Dart intake, Holley 800 cfm, DUI ignition, Lightning Headers.
Motor makes good power! I run a lab finished 25"pitch Mirage Plus prop, turns approx 5300rpm at just over 75mph.
I enjoy the boat!!
I'll have to try to get some pictures up for you to see.

Great Dane, I have the same barge that had the same problem. Go to the fuse blocks under the steering wheel those switches operate tiny relays so even if your fuse is checking ok for nav. lights for example you still won't get power. One of the fuses gives power to all those switch relays check them with a test light both line and load side you'll probably end up having to clean where the fuse makes contact. another problem I found in my crapper look in the bilge by the stringers at the drain holes down to the hull mine were up way too high on the lower sides and couldn't drain until they filled up with water which is what caused my stringer to delaminate and crack my hull way to go scarab.

Hey Guy's,
There is a grease like compound that you can put on any electrical connection like a plug, fuse sockets, wire connectors etc. that will prevent the connection from oxidation and keep the moisture out. My fuse box from condensation got corroded from the moisture and I put oxi guard on it and no further problems. It acts like a moisture barrier.

Electrical dash problem
 

I've read all the replies and heard the remedies. As far as I am concerned, there is absolutely no reason or excuse for having relays in a circuit unless the loads are higher ampacity than the switches are rated for, or the control needs multiple positions. Even with multiple control positions diodes can provide isolation w/o relays. That your switch panel control function is deteriorated by mositure is somewhat unforgivable of the manufacturer. After all, it is a boat.

In the great majority of cases, simpler will be better.

I'd replace all that "jizz" with high quality switches and be done with it . With all the things that will go wrong with boats, it's just incomprehensible that you would have to worry about "switches'. Do it and forget about them and enjoy boating. Get a nice custom switch panel laser cut and wire it in yourself.

That, of course, is just my simple opinion.

They probably used relays to create holding circuits (sealed) that could be actuated with a momentary pulse. I agree, not a good way to go, but I suspect they were designing for the soft touch feel. I would also replace these switches with maintained rockers that can handle the load, then get rid of relays.

Dave

Thanks for all the answers.

I finally found the culprit, I cut the sealer on the rubber buttons and took it off so I could see the circuitry.And when holding the rubber button cover up to the light I could see a tear that led water in, and the circuitry was damp and covered in patina.

I glued the tear and removed the patina, and now it all works. Hope it stays that way.

PATINA-a usually green film formed naturally on copper and bronze by long exposure or artificially (as by acids) and often valued aesthetically for its color b : a surface appearance of something grown beautiful especially with age or use
2 : an appearance or aura that is derived from association, habit, or established character
3 : a superficial covering or exterior

i just had to know:)

$5 A GALLON, BOATING MUST BE TOUGH IN DENMARK, I RUN TWIN 454'S BURN ABOUT 50 GALLONS A HOUR ON MY BOAT. I WOULD NEED A SECOND FULL TIME JOB TO RUN MY BOAT THERE.