Another oil cooler question
 

Does anyone have the dimensions for various Merc engine packages? I see a lot of coolers on e-bay but not sure what size I need. What is a sufficient size to keep oil temps in check for a 500 hp motor?

The 7.4 mpi ( 300hp) is about 7" ( or often a dual cooler that has PS and Oil in one unit)
The 454 mag (385hp) is 10"
The 502 mag (415 hp) is 13"
The hp 500 is (475hp) about 17"

Thanks, that gives me a lot to go on. Are those all the same diameter?

Merc HP500 style

What is the diameter Mopower? Did you make those brackets or can they be purchased? Is that a urethera pink intake I see there? :D

Dave

Don't know the Dia. off hand. I'm in work right now...will check in the morning and let you know. The brackets are bronze pipe hangers , available in various sizes at Lowes or Home Depot. The opposite side has a threaded hole for a stud to be threaded into a floor joist. I replaced it with stainless all thread about 2 inches long and threaded it into the existing holes on the heads;) .
As for the pink it's actually magenta powdercoat. It matches some of my upholstery and is much tougher than paint. It's unaffected by gas or oil. First time out this past season I blew and oil line on the cooler and sprayed 180* oil all over:eek: . A little Simple Green and a powerwasher and it was as good as new.

Thanks alot Mo... you helped me out tremdously in figuring out how I will mount my new coolers. A pic is worth a thousand words, and hangers bought from a marine outfit cost $50/set.

On a different note, did your powder coated intake fog over after heat cycles or is it still glossy? Looks glossy. I want to powdercoat my valve covers this winter but was worried about that.

Dave

BT,
First off the cooler is 2 1/4 x 17. Yeah , the Merc clamps suck and are VERY expensive and only cheap a$$ painted steel:mad:.
The powdercoat held up fine. I also had my polished aluminum valve covers done in clear powdercoat:cool: . This stopped the oxidation so common with bare aluminum in boats.
Slingshot on here is in the business and has done items as large as boat trailers.
Here's a thousand more words;)

And a thousand more;)
Hope this is some more help.
BTW this is an oil cooler only , I still have a ps cooler on the port side but the engine mount.

Cal(mopower)

Thanks again Cal. I never knew you had a real name... :D Another question. I am redoing all mine oil, fuel and PS lines. How are you makine out with the pressed on barbed fittings. I am a little scared of that approach, but if it works, what the hay. Was that by chance the reason you had an oil line blow off last year?

Dave

Dave
As a matter of fact NO it was a Merc factory line. I've had one push-lock line for 4 seasons now. Had to make some more last season for these new oil coolers. Checked into the specs of the hose and it was only about 220/230* but had a working pressure of 300 psi. So since I'm well below the max pressure I figure I can get away with a little extra temp. I'm not one to be beating on it 24/7 so my oil temps rarely go over 200*.
I used it for my fuel too BUT it''s not USCG approved. I'm going to redo those this winter. Here's my oil leak...It was like a cow on a flat rock:D

Cal (mopower)

I don't need a name...you can call me anything but late for dinner:D :D

Yeah Cal, I was working on picking out lines today and am finding a lot that are 212, and some that are 230. What I am going to get prices on is teflon hose with SS braid jacket, good for 450F. It is compatible with gas, oil, ps and water, all things I am redoing. Last year I blew a power steering line (twice actually) and made a disaster of my freshly painted bilge. That's what scares me about the barbed fitting. When I total up the cost factor to use that hose I may change my mind though... time will tell. That stuff aint't cheap!!

Dave

That teflon hose seems to be the ticket;) . That's not push-lock is it? Probably needs crimped ends and yeah , you better bend over and grab you ankles:crazy: .
They do make for a nice looking job though:) . If you can, let me know about how much it costs.
Thanks Cal

I'll do that Cal. I am going to try to get a sample to check out. There are two ways to fasten connectors on the SS-TFE stuff; the crimp connectors and some compression type connectors that can be feild assembled. I am going to price the ones you can assemble. Hopefully the fittings are not like $45 ea. I've seen some like that. But after my oil messes this year, cost becomes less of an issue. I just cannot tolerate a ****ty looking bilge and last year was a heart breaker after all the work I did. I've been fighting that battle and loosing ever since I had this boat.

What size thread is on that line you blew (shown abovr)? I don't have mine apart yet and could use that fact.

Dave

Don't know the size off hand. I'm in work again till 12m. But leave me tell you , I'm hell with pipe sizes:crazy:
Speaking of messes , this is about 45 minutes running time last spring(first time out) with brand new engines:mad: The oil came up at a 45* angle and hit the engine hatch and splattered all over.

Great stuff. Hose is CHEAP wait till you see the price of the fittings and hose ends!!!!!!!!!! :D Never blown a fitting or hose though. ;)

Using Aeroquips socketless hose for 3 years without a problem, its blue too :) ( the push on barb stuff)

Temperature Range: -40°F to +300°F
Air not to Exceed +250°F
Water not to Exceed +180°F
Maximum Operating Pressure: 250psi - All Sizes.
Applications: Fuel, Oil, Coolant, and Air.


http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...86&prmenbr=361

Thanks ursus, that was going to be my next question on the T/A forum. Craig223's Cig has that and it makes a clean looking engine compartment.

Prices on the teflon SS braid hose is (1/2" or #8) $.62/in. About $10/fitting. Around $500 to do my oil, fuel and PS lines. WOW.

Dave

And this is from where??
I think my black oil lines may be fine,but perhaps the fuel may get done:rolleyes:
It's either that or bend my own 1/2 inch fuel lines.

Mopower... I picked the hose and fittings out of a Parker Hannifin hydraulics catalog and got pricing from a local hydraulics distributor.

Was considering doing my entire lube, fuel and PS systems in metal tubing and flared fittings. I'd use steel lines same as automobiles transmission lines due to cost. SS line are expensive. In cars steel lines are subjected to heavy salt/water mixtures and they seem to last well, probably due to the zinc coating.. Any opinions on that approach in a boat?

Dave

Well, the factory uses solid fuel lines so I guess it's ok there. Oil would probably work too. The only problem with that is any other maintenance where you have to move the oil filter would be more difficult since you can't just lay the filter off to one side. Same goes for the ps too.