Loose Outdrive?
 

When changing gear lube found that the drive has a decent amount of side to side play about 2-3" as measured at tail end. Saw post w/ drive w/ 8" of play. What is normal? Know this was not there when put in water in spring and have had issues with low water in slip this year. Concerned this may have been caused by boat rocking w/ drive in soft mud.

Is thwere a wy to tell what caused it and what is most likely the problem? Have heard gimbal ring needs to be replaced, but also have heard about repair kit for this.

'88 Bravo I w/ 454. Thanks

Nooooo! A worn bravo gimbal ring? Unheard of!
Just kidding, VERY common.
You can try tightening the U bolt that holds the upper swivel pin to the gimbal ring. The steering arm inside the gimbal housing may be loose to. But I suspect it's the gimbal ring that's worn where the square pin rides in it.
Do a search in the tech section. The options are to replace the ring by 1) pulling the engine and gimbal, or 2) Drilling a couple holes in the gimbal to access the steering arm bolts (kit for this from merc).
There's even been a few posts about a company that will repair the gimbal ring instead of replacing it. But it still has to come off.
Gary

Thanks Gary, just did a search and found tons of info. Great site!

Questions:

Is the repair kit a permanent fix or will the ring still have to be repalced at some point?

How does this kit repair/fix the worn square the pin rides in?

The repair kit from merc just directs you how to drill holes in the upper part of the gimbal housing. This allows you to access the steering arm bolts so you can remove the upper swivel pin and then remove the gimbal ring. You dont have to remove the gimbal and engine this way. It also includeds the plastic plugs for the holes you drill. It does nothing to repair the ring. You'll have to get a new one, or like I said, there's an aftermarket company that will repair the ring. I would contact Doller Marine a buy a new one if it needs replacement.
Gary

Get ahold of Ron Bender, "WildthingTaz" He makes a sweet stainless swivel pin and he can repair the worn gimbal ring. He does a fantastic job.

I`ve done this job countless times and IMHO the merc repair kit sucks. I hate drilling the holes and ask Audiofn, his boat SUNK because of a cracked plug.

In the end it takes about the same amount of time to pull the motor and remove the transom assy and do the job correctly. I will never use the crappy plug kit again.

Good luck,

Kurt

Maybe one of the other guys mentioned it and I missed it, but check the hinge pins in the gimble. These can be repaired while on the boat with heli coil or other methods. I did the heli coil method on my 1988 B1s several years ago with a good result. If you do not know, these pins are located under the trim limit and sender on each side of your drive.

Dave

Speaking of hinge pin bearings I replaced mine on Bravo One. Boat had around 200 hours only about 15 hours with over 500 horsepower in it. What is a reasonable life expectancy of the bearings? New bearings eliminated about half inch of play at the skeg side to side. Not too bad of a job though took a couple of hours and purchase of the hinge pin socket. Could do quicker now having accomplished it once, but not looking forward to having to do it often.

I am not sure of the recommended changeout interval on the bearings vmax. I would think 500 hours would be a reasonable life. When I repaired my hinge pins the problem was actually the threads on the hinge pins. I have several inches of movement. Replaced the pin and bearing at the same time as installing the heli coils, and it is tight.

BTW, if the tiller arm pivot was the problem I would think the play would be up and down more than side to side. Never had a bad one though so not sure on that.

Dave

RMM RON BENDER HERE. YES WE CAN SOLVE YOUR PROBLEMS. TAKE A LOOK AT OUR WEB SIT JRMARINE.COM CLICK ON GIMBEL RING REPAIR IT WILL SHOW YOU WHAT WE DO.I WILL SAVE YOU ABOUT $500.00 ON REPAIRING YOURS. WE ALSO MAKE A STAINLESS SWIVEL SHAFT THAT WILL NOT RUST OR CORRODE LIKE THE OEM ONE.AT A MUCH CHEAPER PRICE. ALSO CLICK ON INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS. THIS WILL SHOW YOU THE KIT WE MAKE TO REMOVE THE RING MUCH EASIER THAN THE OEM ONE. GIVE ME A CALL ON MY CELL AND WE CAN GO THRU IT RON 216-390-1330

Well I just did mine this past summer after it wearing so bad that it broke. Man what a diffrents it makes when it is all tight. Mine had almos no play when I bought it 2.5 years ago and still has less then 300 hours on the boat. And for the record you can pull the drive and gimble housing withoup pulling the motor. I did it and Water foul also did it. I got my new take off Ring from a member here on OSO Spot94 & Luciddie2. Great People
Rag's

This is what happens if you just titen the two nuts at the top of the gimble. It seams like it is better but it is just short term real short Rag's

And as long as you have it aprt you might as well falow too olds lead and paint the drives what ever color makes you happy. Rag's

Ok, disconnected the arm from the ram and it definetly seems the arm is loose on the pin. I think the ring is OK. I can reach through the transom where the arm goes thru from the inside and can feel the nut and bolt but not sure if would be able to tighten, not much room. Anyone know what size the bolt/nut should be? Figure I'll try this before tearing it apart.

IF YOU NEED I HAVE A USED GIMBL RING ASSY $400.00

RMM, as Ragtop said it is possible to remove the gimbal without yanking the motor. Send me an email if you want to talk about it. I've done it on my boat, and helped a friend do the same on his.

When you DO get it apart, you may find what I did, the nut and bolt had NO thread left to tighten it down. Merc uses a carraige bolt here, and the nut was up against the end of the thread. I put a stainless washer under the bolt head and reinstalled the bolt and nut. Tightened it right up. NO play.

[email protected]

Mike

Waterfoul...
 

Waterfoul and all, thanks. Definetly think the arm is loose on the pin, as when disconnect steering ram, can easily move the arm @ 2" each direction before it "tightens up/catches" and moves the drive. Would like to see if can do this. So you say it can bve done w/out removing the gimbal housing and the engine?

How hard is it to remove the drive, gimbal ring, etc? I would say I am a weekend mechanic but may try to give it a shot. Need to go pick up a manual first.

Do the lower unit and leg come off as one piece, leaving you at the bell housing? Does the bell housing have to be removed? As you can see I haven't done this before.

If you could explain further that would be great. Will I still need the access hole plug kit? Not real excited about drilling holes in the drive.

I was able to get a wrench on the bolt and nut from the inside, but wouldn't budge, think as you said it is all the way tight.

Thanks for any input.

RMM well if you look close at my second photo in post #11 you will see the "pin" it is rusty and is probably just as slopy in the gimble ring as the arm is on the "pin" as the arm is steal the "pin" is steal but the gimble ring is aluminum.
In my last photo you will see were the drive unbolts from the bell housing. you can take it apart were mine changes colors but it is not needed.
It is real easy I would read the shop manual first and you will need to buy a tool to take the bolts "piviot pins" out of were the bell and the gimble atach to each other.
If you are able to get to all 8 nuts on the inside that hold the gimble housing onto the boat then NO you dont have to drill the holes in you gimble housing.

Rag's

Thanks ragtop, could you email me the photos at [email protected]? Thanks

IF YOUR RING IS NOT BROKE I WILL BUY IT OFF OF YOU IF YOU WANT TO SELL IT. RON