|
biggest cam for merc 454-330
Just a curiosity thing
Jegs has listed for cam, lifters $189.00 Cam grind is as follows Grind: 288 Duration: 244°/254° Lift .570''/.575'' Is this too big for a stock rod,crank,piston 330 hp engine? Not sure what centerline it is on I was looking around for a 112 LSA not the 114 like the choking coughing cams and since im emissions unrestricted, hell lets go for it Thanks Jason |
Depending on the year of your motor you may have a roller cam in it. My 97 7.4 had a roller cam.
|
I`d leave it alone. Tune it up and make it run right and use it!
Or, build some fresh 454 Mags. Just my .02 |
naa.. why stop at 454 mags... how bout 540's with 420 megablowers :eek:
|
Thats way too much duration for a stock engine. You will have no bottom end or middle torque. The lift is Ok if its a roller or solid cam. Make sure to check valve to piston clearance after installing new cam.
|
I am with giggus, leave it stock and enjoy. His boat is turn key and there is never any question to it running well. I am going back to stock as much as possible and hope for a season with out problems!!!
Jon |
Don't buy any cams from Jeg's or Summit! They don't sell stuff for marine applications. Buy from somebody who builds marine engines otherwise you'll be very sorry,risk damaging an engine and it won't perform as expected.
|
Ultradyne markets a cam just for your motor. 276/276 duration with .515/.515 lift. They claim 375hp at 5000 with a good idle. They've got another cam the 276/286 with the same lift that's supposed to make 390 at 5200 but gives up some low end. I've had good luck with Ultradyne.
PS - those guys that say don't mess with it, they're sissies. Go for it. |
I installed a GM hotcam in my LS1 Trans Am
It is a 112 lsa with split duration I love it, choppy idle, sounds really wild I wanted something similar cause I had really great results with that cam at the track and low end was hardly affected but then I put a torque converter in it (3700 stall) with 2.73 gears and im running high 11's Im pleased with the idle, performance and agressiveness of it it is not a huge lift it is .525 .525 duration is .218 .227 makes the car with that 112 lsa really choppy and nasty sounding Are all these crane cams on 114 lsa? thanks Jason |
Boat and engines are 1990 7.4 330 Hp
gen 4 I believe??? pretty sure peanut port heads, cast crank |
Originally posted by Jayl13: <STRONG>I installed a GM hotcam in my LS1 Trans Am It is a 112 lsa with split duration I love it, choppy idle, sounds really wild I wanted something similar cause I had really great results with that cam at the track and low end was hardly affected but then I put a torque converter in it (3700 stall) with 2.73 gears and im running high 11's Im pleased with the idle, performance and agressiveness of it it is not a huge lift it is .525 .525 duration is .218 .227 makes the car with that 112 lsa really choppy and nasty sounding Are all these crane cams on 114 lsa? thanks Jason</STRONG> |
ME? My car is not all stock
not even close Yes ill run high 11's or low 12's all day in 90 degrees but NOT stock Headers, Borla, High flow cats, Hypertech programmer, GM Hotcam, Nitto drag radials, BMR trailing arms, BMR drive shaft loop, MTI clear intake lid, ported MAF sensor, K&N filter, Yank Superthruster 3700 stall torque converter, WS6 Trans Am Car out of the box off the show room floor with the crappy 2.73 gears did 13.7's all day consistant the converter took me to 12.6's Drag radials got me .1 intake, K&n and ported MAF sensor knocked off another .1 Programming got me .2 colder weather gets me up to .3 (cold early first run in morning) Then I decided to lighten up the car some when I go to the track so I yank out seats, seat belts from rear, some odd plastic panels ect empty out glove boxes and basically empty it out best run has been 11.79 @ 113 this is all done WITHOUT nitrous, and the GM 10 bolt stock 2.73 gears in I have a set of 3.42's but if you ever know anyhthing about GM rears, you know your best bet is to either toss it and get a 12 bolt OR get someone that does it for a living to set it up and shim it out with new gears and a new carrier Car used to be a daily driver but since the drag radials are sort of gettin thin, I drive my F350 daily now and she gets to sit in the garage for the winter I will start driving her again in spring on almost a daily basis she is legal and is tough to beat on the street hey what can I say, I built an animal and tearing open a LS1 engine was a pure pleasure trip, GM has come very far wiht their engines -- this LS1 i wish I could drop 2 of them in the baja, now THAT would be amazing!!! block and heads weigh in at 600 lbs Intake is plastic (the WHOLE INTAKE MANIFOLD) and makes some incredible power last dyno prior to cam install was 374 cam plus head work probably end up in the 410-420 ish range comfortably, Block is a 6 bolt main all aluminum and it freakin screams!!!! Jay PS like I said not close to stock but she can run her ass off !!! |
Jay, duration and LSA are much more critical in a marine environment. There is a reason most of the marine cams are ground with higher LSA and less duration. You don't want all that water that's exiting through your pipes to be pulled back into your motor. Reversion will kill a marine engine and low LSA figures and high durations contribute to it greatly. Be careful what you experiment with. Kinda like doing your own open heart surgery. It's your heart! As a previous poster said, get with a reputable cam manufacturer. They will have grinds for marine engines and will know what you need given your present combination. Remember, there are no converters on boats to help with bottom end. Install the wrong cam and kill the bottom end torque and there is no way to recover it. Also, your valve springs won't handle the lift on the cam you listed. Even the 454 mag rectangle port heads, with stock springs, are only good for a little over .500 if you want it to remain reliable. Be careful and good luck.
[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Croozin2 ] [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Croozin2 ] |
does anyone have a wav file of an aggressive cam in their boat?
preferably with No Headers (stocker manifolds and risers) For the few that know the situation, I may have trashed the cam in the starboard engine or I have broken a valve spring or bent a valve, not sure until it gets warmer outside and I can take that top half off and see wtf happened Im just trying to be prepared so I know what to order and from where if needbe. If I dont need a cam then this all goes away, but if I am going to do a cam, im going bigger what cams did the 420's have in them? Biggus, should I just get the 365 mag cams if I need em? Thanks Jason |
Jay- well that makes sense now, i may have misunderstood your old post, i had a ls1 t/a that was modified by lingenfelter and also had a 150hp shot of nos, w/3.90 gears and it would run 11.40's thru the exhaust and on street radials.
as far as the cams in your 330hp's in my opinion it would be best to just fix it and enjoy the boat, shopping for a cam by the way it sounds will more than likely slow your boat down, besides you wont be able to back up that big cam sound with in those 330's |
Im not really worried about backing up anything, if I do cams it is because one is lunched and I have to and while you have it apart, might as well put a bigger one in there ya know
There is going to be tons of boats faster than me -- if I was worried about that aspect of it, I would have bought a cheap house and bought a skater with twin 1100's and #6's cant afford headers (6 grand is nuts) but want this louder and punchier i fixed and redid the silent choice (yeah like that will ever be closed off LOL) way I look at it, If you dont like the noise of the exhaust, get an rv and cruise out to bumble hell no where and relax LOL Jason |
Jayl13-- cam specs can be deceiving. Mine is advertised as 270, but that is at .006" lift. That is not an effective lift. You won't move much air. I am running a Comp Cams XM 270H-12 270° advertised, but 226/236 @ .050" lift. 112 LSA. This gives it a decent idle, along the lines of what you want, gives decent power with EMI exhaust, and is damn close specs to Crane Cams #134241
Oh yeah- I will try to pull a wav file off of some video I have of mine. [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: David ] |
Merc 420 cam is a
Crane 132561. It is listed on their web sight. |
David,
Got the video, your cam sounds perfect can you send me exact specs? great video and nice ride Looks like a baja from the back but then I see the windshield and it is not. What boat is that? Thanks, much appreciated , That is exactly what im looking for perfect not too crazy and idles okay, but choppy nonetheless Great -- thanks soooo much Jason |
I RAN A HYD ROLLER WITH 236 AT .050 AND 547 LIFT WITH 2.250 AND 1.940 VALVES HAD NO CLEARANCE PROBWITH TRW FLAT TOP PISTONS
|
A 226/234 with 540 lift crane would be the max size and would require roller rockers and piston clearance check also. It would make max power close to 4900-5000 unless you port the heads then it would probably run to 5200 if propped correctly. If you do not want to change the rockers than a 218/226 at .500 would be a better choice. Good luck.
|
Ok for what it is worth and I would like some input on this. Big Block Chevy Marine Performance recommended going with a Comp Cam Grind XE 256 H 10. This is Part # 11-234-3.
Duration: 212 degree intake durration 218 degree exhaust duration Lift .480 intake valve lift with 1.70:1 Rocker arm .283 intake Lobe Lift at lifter .485 Exhaust valve lift with 1.70:1 Rocker arm Timing 110 degree intake to exhaust lobe centerline seperation 108-110 degrees after top dead center intake lobe centerline position in crankshaft degrees 110-112 degrees before top dead center exhust lobe centerline position in crankshaft debrees. This cam will work with stock springs and retainers and valve guide seals. There is no idication of what to expect for a performance gain. Jon |
Jayl13, I have the crane #134241 cam in my 454 Mag. It has a nice lopey idle, but still idles fine at 750rpms. It also comes in a kit under the #134242 and is only about $150 for the kit from Summit.
|
THE PEOPLE AT ULTRADYNE KNOW THER SH*! ABOUT MARINE ENGINES,GIVE THEM A CALL THEY WILL GIVE YOU SOME HONEST ANSWERS AND HELP YOU SELECT THE RIGHT GRIND. GOOD LUCK!
|
Jayl
You cannot run Davids 226/236 112LSA cam with silent choice. |
I have silent choice yes but is it ever engaged HELL FREAKIN NO!!!!!
but what does that have to do with anything? now im lost? Please explain THanks Jason |
I have run the edelbrock torquer 2 cam which is 224,232, .527, .553 on 114 with the Gil magnum choice (which is really close) without reversion. Had the cam advanced 4 degrees too. Worked good with large oval port heads and 9-1 comp.
|
The earlier the water gets into the exhaust stream, the greater chance of reversion (water being sucked back into engine). Most silent choice systems result in the water entering the exhaust stream at the same time as stock. Reversion is a results of valve overlap (the intake and exhaust valves open at the same time. Its takes pages to really explain whats going on. It happens at idle. The greater the duration and/or the less lobe seperation, the greater the overlap. Overlap equals reversion, reversion equals broken engine. With dry pipes, no problem. You should consider dry pipes anyway, they are the loudest. Your neighbors and local police will love you. :D :D
|
How bad is it to do a dry exhaust system?
Would it burn the fiberglass at the transom? WHere does the water exit from in a case like that? are the dry systems those bassett headers I see for real cheap in comparison to the stellings and cmi's ? My origional thoughts were to take a pair of car headers, flip them upside down, and bolt them on, if I had to alter the flange a bit then so be it. I would have to see if that would work though first before buying a set (old bones cyl head and a header and see if it bolts up upside down) but that would be a dry system still dont know where the water would inject back into the pipe though is heat a problem with dry headers on a twin engine big block boat? Jason |
Ok, dont try the auto header thing. It only works on totally open boats where the engine is exposed and they use the Basset water injected headers. The dry headers I am talking about are completely water jacketed and the water exits through a nipple at the end of them. Then you hose the water to a fitting on the transom. They are very expensive. You might be able to find some gil manifolds with dry pipes used for a decent price. Location of hole in transom becomes critical then and you may have to use tapered shims to get the pipe in the middle of the hole. Then there are trim rings with silicone gaskets to keep the bugs out.
|
Got a link to a site that sells these dry headers and pipes?
so I can understand this a little more? cause im in love with the fact that there are no emissions on this thing and it has twin big blocks HEHEHEHE but my car is choked to death and runs cleaner than this Go figure Thanks Jason |
If you want dry exhaust lightning will build you a set for 1400 to 1600.
Check www.cpperformance.com or IMCO [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: KCHOTBOAT ] |
Also remember to not go too crazy with lift unless you will be changing the exhaust valves. The stockers are probably the weakest link in the 330 motor. The Ironman.
|
I would change out the whole valve train the only otherweak link is the pistons the rest isn,t all that bad. If you want good rocker adj nuts go with the ARP stuff studs and all
|
I would change out the whole valve train the only otherweak link is the pistons the rest isn,t all that bad. If you want good rocker adj nuts go with the ARP stuff studs and all
|
Talk to Ultradyne they will take care of you. Forrest
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:25 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.