I just came back from the boat yard. I went up with a straight edge, and a blanket! Seems the hull is in better shape than I thought. The only place I can find any hook is all the way out by the port strake about 8 inches from the port edge of the hull. It's only in a small area. This I could probably do myself, but I probably won't see any gain. The only other thing I'll do is clean up the pad area. There are some scratches and things that need to be addressed. Are there any other things I can do to the bottom to help it along?
One other thing. Ever since I got the boat, I noticed a little rooster tail coming off the port side of the drive. At speed the water seems to kick off the anti ventilation plate, and make this little rooster tail. The drive has no nicks or dents anywhere, and it didn't change when adding the nosecone. The starboard side has always had nice flow. The hull in that area is clean and flat. This one has always stumped me.:confused:

The "rooster tail" could have to do with the steel braided trim lines.

An easy thing to do is sharpen the strakes and the transom. Water is sticky, and if you have sharp edges it will cut thru better and it won't stick to the transom edge.

Good idea with sharpening the edges. I've seen a number of people saying they did that. I'll give that a try.
Ric, as far as the trim cylinder lines go, when I'm running at speed, none of that is anywhere near the water. The only thing in the water is everything below the anti-ventilation plate. That's why I've been concentrating on that area, and the hull.

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

Handling was fine to start with. As I stated in an early post, it appears my bottom was very good to start with. Probably a good comment on the quality of Hustler's mold work. Shop that did mine also has done quite a few as well. I suspect how big the net gain will be is a result of how bad the bottom is to start with.

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

I own a 89' Formula 272SR-1. Have you ever worked on this model?

I called Formula and they said that the "hook" is actually a "wedge" they insert in the mold as additional material. The hook starts about 24 inches from the transom and is about 1/2 inch thick. I would thick that removing some of the hook would unlease this boat! It runs 72-73 mph and hits a "wall" I have twin 525hp motors but know someone who has twin 645hp motors in the same model and he can't seem to break 80mph.

1989 292's and 311's don't have hooks but seem to be faster boats with the same power. Whats your opinion?

Dan

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

I have a hook in my hull also. I have been working on cleaning off the bottom paint and found this hook on the pad area about a foot off the transom. It may be a 1/8" . Right now my boat runs very wet. I have been thinking that this hook is keeping me from loosing up the grip the water has on me. You can see the hook right buy the FaxMax wording. the hull is a 251 GTX checkmate
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...4/100_0295.jpg

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

Don`t forget that many hull`s has a slight hook built in by the manufacturer. This is for help with planing and for reducing porpoising.

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

Anyone modified a late 80's Formula 272 SR-1 hull/hook?

I really need some input.

Re: Hull Blueprinting
 

Mtgbiker,

I have the same hull running 93+ on GPS and haven't done any work to the hull YET. I don't think the wedge is an issue for top speed because it is between the outside strake and chine only. I think we will see more gain from extending the inside strake and or adding a pad.