If it's a GM "crate motor" then it's not the kind of "stock" you were looking for.
There are some differences you will need to address, especially if you have any intention of using it in salt. |
i use the boat in fresh water only, it was used in the salt water, just been in fresh water 3 times since i bought it
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120 degrees sounds a liitle cool for stock 502's.
But that is not your problem. A 10w-40 Milk shake.... not a good thing. I woudn't run that thing until it's checked out by a Pro. sure sounds like a head gasket... |
its supposed to be 435 hp, dunno if that matters or not, i also have a oil temp but its not connected and i dont know where to hook it up. I will take it to the shop monday and i hope is something minor or my wife will kill me.lol
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If you wanna take a quick look at the exhaust..... Run the motor for a couple of minutes. Then separate the exhaust pipe from the manifold. Look down into the chamber and see if you see water in the ports. if you see water, most likely you have a cracked manifold or cracked exhaust pipe. A lot of times you can see exactly where the water is comming from inside the manifold. If you have water in there but you can't find any cracks, then you have bigger problems. It is pretty simple to check this out before you go and pay someone a lot of money to check it out.
also, if the oil cooler is cracked you will most likely be pushing oil out the exhaust and that is easy to spot. once you get it fixed (hopefully it's nothing big) do a couple of oil changes while you run the boat on land, getting the temp up. then take her out for a nice long run (this will burn a lot of the water out of the oil and the sludge that is probably built up under the valve covers.) then do another oil change and go out for another "long" run. hopefully this will take care of the rest of the water in there and you won't need to do any expensive repairs. you gotta take care of this quickly before the springs etc. start to rust inside. If they springs start to rust they are usually junk. |
thanks for the info, there is something i just thought while banging my head about this, i park the boat on a incline surface, my house is a little steep so the tongue of the boat is down, is there a posibility that when i run it in the house with a hose the water stays in the headers? since its not level or leaning the other way?
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Originally posted by migara422 thanks for the info, there is something i just thought while banging my head about this, i park the boat on a incline surface, my house is a little steep so the tongue of the boat is down, is there a posibility that when i run it in the house with a hose the water stays in the headers? since its not level or leaning the other way? BT :cool: |
you have to take care of this quickly, all the moisture
in the block is not a good thing |
Change your oil soon! One thing I missed was what is your oil temperature. Not enough heat will cause condensation. Also do you run a PCV valve. Hard to tell how much water you have but trust me cold oil and cold water temps will make your oil milky. I had same the trouble with a cold running blower motor and I had a real hard time believing it was just condensation. Well it was after a lot of time spent looking else where. Just something to keep in mind. You have a lot of good suggestions already and maybe you get lucky and it is something minor. Good luck. :)
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migara422, I run a ZZ502/502 crate in my boat. Water temp is 170* to 175* regardless of how hard/fast I run it. The cam in mine is 110 LSA. No known reversion caused by the cam so far.
You mentioned that your crate motor is a 502 and 435 hp. Your engine might be the 502 HO given the hp you mentioned along with the fact that it is a crate motor. If that is the case, the LSA of your cam is 112* which should be safe as far sucking water into the engine at idle. I'm no mechanic, but with your low operating temp, the oil is probably not warming up as it should. And like paradigm says cold engine and cold oil will cause milky oil. Check with these other guys, but I think your oil temp should somewhere between 225* and 250*. The temp has to exceed 212* to burn off the condensation. Important that you connect the oil temp gauge asap. Like they said, change the oil immediately, and filter too. Use a good synthetic...don't cheap out on oil cost. Ask these guys what the best filter is. They'll give you good advice. Good luck :) |
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