Virgin painter painting questions
 

PPG paints products

Alumum cleaner
Al conditioner
non sanding Epoxy primer
Acrylic Enamel paint.

Painting sand blasted outdrives.

a) After primered, do I just paint or need to lightly sand/scuff before painting?

b)Reading the 'instructions' what is meant by induction period?

Thanks!

The paint will adhere better if you lightly sand first.

"The waiting or induction period, is used to give the two components (Part-A Epoxy & Part-B Catalyst) time to "react" to each other, prior to bonding/reacting with the substrate." In other words, the time you wait after mixing to thin and apply the paint.

If you read what you wrote, Non-sanding primer, That would tell you what to do, sometimes there is a time limit as to how long you can leave the primer before topcoating and after a certain time you may need to sand and then re-coat, this should be on the can or on a sheet that your paint supplier should have. Good luck

You do not need to sand the primer after priming. It's when you are painting over paint, that you should scuff the surface to break the sheen. Use a 3m scotch bright pad. The green one. You only need to break the gloss, not turn the surface white.

The can will have some directions on when the top coat can be applied over the primer. Some want you to wait 24 hours (because the primer will shrink). Often, if too much time goes by, you'll then need to scuff and reprime. Again the can will give you the directions.

The induction period is the time that the two products must sit after being mixed. This should not be confused with the flash time, drying time or recoat time.

If you are using PPG products, then you must be buying them from a professional dealer. They have sheets on all this stuff. Get the sheets, read them, and highlite them. Especially the times, mixing ratios, and air pressures. This is where a second person comes in handy. When you have paint running through a strainer is NOT when you want to be reading the instructions!

Also be sure to have a full roll of quality paper towels and a gallon of slow laquer thinner handy to clean up with.

use a urethane type paint, it is alot harder than enamel

The supplies came with no instructions other than the mixture ratios and air press. that are on the can labels.

The primer is DP40 Epoxy primer. Yep, right there on the can 'NON SANDING' duh!


I just downloaded the procedure from the PPG website.
I'm using DP402 primer catalyst, so it looks like I need no induction time as like the DP401 requires. Also looks like sanding is required if not painted within 1 week just as GEO stated. I'm looking at doing this all in 1 day, so no sanding then.


Ought to be fun. At least it is on the lower units, so if not perfect it won't be as obvious. But still would like for it to turn out good.

Thanks

I agree PPG Concept Single Stage works great for projects like this.

I bought the stuff that was recommended on the Merc website. So don't tell me NOW what will be better. ;) :p
Obviously I know nothing about this stuff.

The PPG website describes this as a "Polyurethane Acrylic Enamel System"

Paint is DAR, with DXR Ultra hardener.
Am I still good to go?


Thanks

I don't know what the different chemicals are. I always have to refer to the affore mentioned work sheets. I'm happy that's a acrylic. So it's a modern paint and you'll be A-OK. I've used the ppg acrylic enamel before and have been very happy with the results.

Don't be Mr. likkity split, take a breather in between coats, I never sprayed PPG but with Imron I'd say I could get another coat on next thing you know a run before your eyes. Do some test sprays on something before you try the drive.

Don't know about you, but usually when I do a test piece, it comes out great! It's the piece after that, that gets all screwed up. Murphy's Law 101

Is that right? "that, that"
seems kinda......wrong. :rolleyes: :p

Not familiar with DAR, usually use Deltron for base/clear applications, or Concept for single step. If it has a hardener it is some sort of epoxy, you will be fine for just the drive, I prefer to get the best when painting something such as an entire car.

PPG DAR is good paint. It will work fine. I've used it plenty of times. The DP Epoxy Primer has a recoat window of 7 days. Do it within that time, and no sanding is required. I found a great site: www.paintucation.com These guys discuss everything you need to know about paint.

Paul

Thanks. everyone. Just picked up a couple of paint mixing buckets. Now just gotta figure out how to read all the ratios on the sides. This ought to be INTERESTING, to say the least. :p

I can take a round solid bar of SS and turn it into a custom VHF antenna mount no problem, but give me a plastic can with numbers and lines on the side of it, my head starts hurting. :D :D

NONE of the PPG products will have any instructions on any of the cans. being professional grade it is available only from limited places... body shop suppliers that are PPG distributors or here in Michigan, Indiana, Ohio it's generally Painters Supply. They will have the data sheets on each product. Read and follow these thoroughly like religion... You can also get them online at ppg.com with a little searching.

if you are beginning with bare metal use DPLF epoxy primer as you are... the blue / green variety (forget the number) since it has a higher concentration of zinc chromate in it than the black, blue, white, red, etc etc. use the 402 catalyst as you said you are...

clean the surface with soap and water and dry thoroughly.. THOROUGHLY... go over it with grease and wax remover, dry THOROUGHLY.... go over it 2 or 3 times with a tack rag.

after it is primed and the cure time has been achieved for your temperature you can shoot it with color. again go over it with grease and wax remover and a tack cloth. if memory serves me correctly.... you can only leave the DPLF primers for a week before you have to sand and reprime. that stuff will clog sandpaper like no tomorrow too...

if you need to fair the drive for pitting or scratches prior to priming i like microballoons or a filler called ICING... it feathers wonderfully... for a sandable buildup primer after application of DPLF i prefer PPG K36 it is absolutely wonderful... that, a can of black spray paint, flat sanding pad and some 600 grit paper and a trickling garden hose... with K36 you have to be cautious to NOT cut it too thin or cut through... or once the primer and color coats are applied you run the risk of lifting due to insufficient film thickness of the K36. you must let the DPLF cure overnight, preferably a day, before application of K36...

when finishing drives and such with a single stage i LOVE PPG DCC Concept. it is a single stage catalyzed Acrylic Urethane and it is as tough as nails and fairly easy to apply. 2 or 3 full wet coats applied 15 minutes apart. cures over night and whala. you can wetsand and compound if needed to repair runs, etc. it is hard to make it run or sag unless you get carried away.

use DCX61 catalyst and 885 reducer unless you are painting in 90+ temperatures. 885 is a good all purpose reducer for the DCC

have fun with the whole thing.. take your time.. don't go too fast or get carried away... i use an HVLP devilbiss GTI and i generally use a 1.3 mm fluid tip for BC and single stage application... 1.5 mm for clear coat. 40 psi at the gun (roughly 10 psi and the cap) gets me pretty good atomization and flow generally.. you'll have to tweak air pressure to get to your comfort and liking for whatever gun you are using... if you are not comfortable right off.. try it on all on a piece of scrap material... and a little goes a long way... the DPLF is mixed 1:1... the DCC is mixed 4:2:1... don't mix more than oyu need... for comparison, a 1 quart mixing cup of mixed material is enough for me to cover an entire tractor one time... (yes i restore antique farm machinery, among other things)

if you are using a devilbiss gravity feed gun the bag system for the paint cup is the cats ass for clean up ease... laquer thinner for everything after that...

DPLF data sheet http://www.pwpaints.com/images/downloads/dplf-p-196.pdf

DCC Concept Data Sheet http://www.pwpaints.com/images/downloads/dcc-p-168.pdf

K36 data sheet

primer surfacer: http://www.pwpaints.com/images/downl...36p-p-169p.pdf

Sealer: http://www.pwpaints.com/images/downl...36s-p-169s.pdf

http://www.donzi.net/photopost/data/...aroot_M_47.jpg

Thanks! The links you posted are the same as I printed off. I assume you meant the primer is a 2:1 mix, not 1:1.

Yes, bare aluminum. I'm cleaning with DX533 cleaner, then conditioning with DX503. Primer is DP40LF(gray/green) with the 402. Drives are excellant shape, no need for fillers.

I may check into exchanging the enamel for the urethane tommorrow since it seems to be the paint of choice, BUT if I can't exchange, the acrylic enamel will be also fine in your opinion?

Thanks again for your reply.

you are correct.. the DPLF is 2:1... the DP is 1:1... LF stands for Lead Free... you cannot purchase regular ole DP anymore...

Got the Concept paint today, so lock your girlfriends up!