head stud sealer.
 

I used normal GM sealer last year and it really wasn't made for what i was doing.

So what should be used for a sealer on my head studs going into the block?


Thanks

Travis

I've been using #2 permatex or aviation sealer for years an never had a problem.

BT

thanks guys :cool:

Aviation sealer !!! dip the headbolt, then brush off the extra.

ARP markets a stud sealer for their studs but I've never used it.

Merc and OMC make a gasket/ thread sealer, similar to aviation sealer. I use it on all the engine bolts as well as outdrive bolts. It works great, and you'll always get the bolts back out. Works great on trailer wheel studs too!

Paul

Will the aviation sealer work on head bolts too???or will it effect your ability to tork them accurately?

Hylomar is the WAY TO GO... Period... i've used it on studs and head bolts that pass into water and i've never had a leak and you can remove the stud or bolt easily at a later date.

I've been using this stuff for years and then one day i was thumbing through Precision Engine Magazine and came across an article on sealants... Hylomar was actually their recommendation for that application... for anyone who doesn't know.. Precision Engine mag is a very technical engineering R&D type of publication... it's well worth reading if you are into that kinda thing.. some of the articles hurt my head too...

JR- toot toot

Also, after performing a few different fastener torque studies for some of my fixtures and what not, with various lubricants i've come to be a religious user of ARP Thread lubricant on all torqued threads unless they must be sealed (head bolts in water)... you get extremely repeatable torque values on a fastener, it takes less torque to achieve the proper amount of fastener stretch due to friction reduction and you gain increased eveness across a group of fasteners... such as head studs, rod and main bolts and studs, etc.

Ok, so Aviation sealer is the right stuff, where can I get it?

I just did a search on stud sealers and this came up and answered all my questions except for were do I find the Aviation sealer or the Hylomar?? Help please I am ready to install the heads and was going to use liquid Teflon. :confused:

It is by permatex and autozone, napa, pep boys, anyone with have aviation sealer. Comes in a little plastic jar with a integral brush on the cap.

BT :cool:

I use the ARP stuff never had a problem.

Thats what I'm going to use when I put my heads back on. The ARP directions say to torque the bolts to the same specs as the recommend for their regular thread lube.

Well if somebody out there is putting "Studs" not bolts in a GM block, with bolt holes that go into the water passages I want to hear about it. :confused: I used the Hylomar sealer on one side of the block and my old standby sealer liquid Teflon on the other side torqued the heads on Friday and bolted the intake on on Saturday. Made up a garden hose adapter so I could pressurize the block and little by little water started coming between the nut and the bolts, after about 2 min 85% of them were leaking on both sides. Heads are back off the motor and I am trying to decide what to do now. Somebody please tell me why you can use a bolt that is in not so perfect shape because of being exposed to water, over and over in this case and not have any problems with water, but install brand new ARP studs and use the best sealer you can find and they leak. It makes no sense at all.:confused:

Velocity Mark... curious, what pressure are you regulating your water to? City tap water runs between 70 and 80psi, way to high if you didn't have a pressure regulator.

BT :cool:

Im sure there are success stories but I have heard nothing but bad things about using head studs on a gm mark 4 block.

Im using a GM block and Vortec Heads. I used NEW GM Headbolts. They have sealer already on them. Do I need to add sealer to the sealant already on them?

BH

Be careful with the ARP bolts (or studs), if you're using them in salt water. I used the ARP head bolts (not stainless) on a 350 chevy. In 10 hours I burned a valve and had to take a head off. I had to use an impact wrench because they were stuck. When I got the bolts out. the ends of the bolts that protruded into the water jackets were gone! It looked like someone was taking the bolt out with an EDM machine from the inside. When I called ARP, and asked them why my stock head bolts had less corrosion after being in the engine 10 years, the guy really didn't give me a clear answer, and started in with some mumbo jumbo about the alloy, and tried to sell me the ultra expensive stainless bolts. So be careful. Just in case someone asks, No I didn't have any electrical problems that ate the bolts up.:)