Could be hydrolocked ?
 

I just posted another thread about my starter problem but just reading i think and i hope im wrong on this but maybe my motor is hydroloked, I was at the lake friday and i notice the boat wasnt the same , i saw no water out of the headers and the temp was like 230 or so, i slowed down and saw oil pressure like 15 or 20 when its like 50 or above usually. I shut it off and opened the hatch and alot of steam in there, my blower works but the tube that is supposed to go over the tramson was unhooked so i think thats why it was that bad, anyways, my oil filter was really hot , so here i am really scared about my wife telling me i told you so and getting pissed at me when i get home. I tried to start the engine to get home but it would turn with no problem and started a couple of times, run really bad like running out of gas and then shut off, kept trying but wouldnt start, motor still turning till the started just started spinning meaning the vendex wasnt coming out to engage,so i got towed back and that was it. I took the started and replaced it with another one, it turned the motore ok for a couple of times, never fired though but it started making noises like it needed shims, oh and when looking around the boat i pulled the plug wire that goes to the coil and it was broken so maybe thats why it woulnt start, dunno yet, but am i in big trouble or its just my starter? if i hydrolocked the motor it would of happened at the lake right? i need some help guys.
Thanks

If you hydrolock a motor it won't turn over let alone start.
Sounds like you ran it out of water.
replace the water pump impellar
check the spark plugs - you may have burnt the electrodes off.
replace all the plug wires.
but first do a compression test.
if it passes the comp test then also change the oil.
GOOD LUCK

To hydro lock a motor you would of had to fill a cylinder with enough water to prevent the piston from reaching top dead center. Water is not compressible. If the mas of water is greater than the volume in the cylinder at top dead center , when the piston approaches T.D.S. it will hit a wall of water. since water is not compressible then something must give. generally you bed a rod.

Was there any way you could of in-jested water into a cylinder??

Take off you oil filter and cut it open. look in the pleats for any coper or brass colored metal. If you find any, I feel for you. Also check to see if the oil has a metallic glitter to it.

If you lost oil pressure ten that is a very bad thing.

I wouldn't try and start the engine until you check the oil and filter for any metal.

thanks for the replies guys, i dont think i injested water into the cilinder what i think happend is that i must of picked up something in the lake while running like a bag maybe, because when i started up for those few seconds, plenty of water was coming out of the headers which tells me whateve it was fell off when i was still. If i take the spark plugs out and no water comes out then it should be ok right? is that the test on hydrolocking the engine?

i checked the oil in the dipstick and looks good i just changed it 2 weeks ago, it looks like new still but i will look at the oil filter tomorrow.

If the motor was hydro locked it wouldnt even turn over once.

once the motor crancks over a few times you would of evacuated the cylenders of any water .

It still would not be a bad idea to check your plugs. They should all look about the same.

im kinda feeling a little better now, i tell you this oso people are the best, the best thing i did is join this site, alot of people with alot of knowledge, and everyone is always helping one another. And we all know as boat owners that 'trouble free' in a boat doesnt go together.

The oil pressure may have been low because it was soo hot.
If you are still running the stock plug wires change them for a set of Taylor spiralpro.

Dude Sorry to say but been there done that. :rolleyes:

I blew 3 engines in one year. :eek:

you learn very fast how to trouble shoot what happened.

the key is to be sure not to let it happen again.

If it wasn't for OSO I would of been lost.

Good luck

Paul

i think you are right in the oil pressure, the oil got so hot that lost viscosity so it thin and pressure dropped, i do have 8mm blue taylors i like them but i rather had the 10.4 like i had before,
Man, 3 engines in 1 year, ouch, i had bad luck when it came to boats i thought this time was gonna be better, it might be still, my first boat was a 19' Youngblood jet, with a 468 twin turbo intercooled by gale banks, blew the engine running at lake George after being at the Glen, running 12 lbs of boost at the moment my fuel pressure drooped to 3 lbs, booom, vapor locked, engine toast, next boat was a 20' picklefork beautiful boat with just a mild 454, lake was rough and me and my buddy took off to the othe side, my hat blows off so i stop turn around and shut the engine, BIG MISTAKE, water came from the back and in about 10 seconds we were jumping overboard, 3' of the boat was all was floating, arrggg, dahm hat, i should learn by now. I laughed when that happened at least i dint flipped the boat and break my neck.

Dude, some boating tips:

1) Your boat's engine is expensive. If you let it run out of coolant or oil, then REALIZE what has happened, and stop trying to MAKE IT START UP and haul you around while it is wounded. Get out a paddle and let the poor mother rest while you get it on a trailer and figure out what it needs. I keep cringing when you keep on talking about how you kept on and kept on and kept on trying to make it run, so you could keep saying "hmm, sounds really nasty, I think I'll keep on running it".

2) a low profile performance hull needs to be treated with some degree of, how do I say this, awareness. You can turn off the ignition of a Bayliner at speed and even jump out of it while it is still on plane to get your hat, and nothing bad will happen to it. One of those picklefork bigblock ironing board boats is entirely another story. Please tell me that massive beer consumption was involved in that decision - I'd rather think that you were sloshed than to think that you considered it to be a harmless decision to swamp your poor picklefork..

Back to your current boat.

Yes, overheating can cause alarmingly low oil pressure. It can cause it to knock and pop back thru the carb, and to run horribly bad. It can cause the starter to overheat and bind up. It can score the cylinder walls, it can weaken the head gaskets. It is basically not particularly healthy. Generally, an overtemp warning horn will sound unless is has been disconnected by a previous owner or something.

You will need to inspect your impeller even if it is pumping water now. For the motor to have run dry long enough to get in the shape you have described, the impeller will be a sad sight. Plan on replacing it, and if the current one miraculously still has vanes with no cracks, then throw it in the gear bag for an emergency spare (or throw it away and keep a fresh one as an emergency spare).

And keep a short handled fish net in the boat to fish out items lost overboard. (I've lost hats I loved so much I cried over them, but don't lose a boat over it..)

well, im sick today, i pull the spark plugs out and out of one cilinder water came out, the othe cilinder little wet, this is one side of the block, the othe side no water, now, im turning the motor and water keeps coming out of that one side, keeps pumping water out , am i dead?
or any chance that could be something minor, man i 'm not doing good today, 2 weeks from now supposed to go to clearwater and take the boat for a mini vacation and i guess its not happening, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
I bought the boat from this guy, and the motor was a 502 crate motor he bought it in july 2003, even though im not the one who bought still should be under warranty right, hope so in case is something major.

I'd start checking head gaskets, common in overtemp conditions.

when i turn over the engine water water comes out of all 4 cilinders, head gasket would do this or maybe 1 cilinder?

I suggest total disassembly and inspection... or you will just be chasing gremlins for a long time..

Wait, hold on before you start tearing things appart. A good majority of the time when you overheat the motor that bad you risk cracking a minifold/headder. You may be getting water in the cyliners from that. Pressure check that first it is the easiest thing to do.

i say pull off the exhaust manifold, turn over the motor and see if there is still water. if no water, run a compression check.
i had a riser gasket go bad from heat, and let water into holes 3 and 5. put the motor back together, still saw evidence of water, changed riser gasket, no more problems.

the guy at the shop told me that my engine is gone, he's taken the exaust and there is water in all cilinders, now he hasn't done a pressure test on it, he says he put the hose through the motor and that water comes out, havent seen it since its late, but shoulnt you put a pressure test to make sure?

You won't be able to do any pressure testing until you verify your headgaskets with a compression check.

If you havent already done so, remove the block drains, pull the plugs out and crank all the water out (with the exhausts off - which it sounds like they already are). Drain the motor oil, dump the filter out or replace with a new one, refill with cheap motor oil and squirt a bunch in each plug hole. Crank the motor over with the plugs out (and the killswitch off) and watch for the oil pressure to come up. You better do this fast or your will rust up things that you don't want rusted up. Get this done soon, then you can take your time and start finding the problem(s).

Once this is done, (and the excess oil has been blown out of the cylinders) do a compression test. Any weird numbers indicate that the heads will have to come off. My prediction is that you will find munched head gaskets.

Your exhaust manifold will need to be pressure tested before you consider reinstalling it.

Headgaskets are a pretty common casualty to obscene levels of overheating.

I would be LEERY of your guy at the shop. Unless he has given you a far more detailed report than you've relayed to us, I am not impressed with his troubleshooting and diagnostic skills.

Warranty? You might be able to pull something off, but if you do, you'll need to post your "story" here for OSO cause it will have to be a mighty good one. I'm pretty sure that GM doesn't warranty their automotive crate motors for damage done from overheating in a boat.

Im going to the shop tomorrow morning to check what he says, just doesnt sount right to me, the engine turns very good, plus it didnt freeze on me , i shut if down myself, the motor its a 502 marine engine, the guy who i bought the boat from bought it new in july 2003, I will post tomorrow exactly what the guy did to determine the status of the engine. thanks for all the replies, ill be back tomorrow with more news. thanks to all

I would pressure test the manifold and also be sure to do a leak down compression test on all the cylinders.

conducting a leak down test will help verify if there is a problem with the head gasket before you pull the motor apart.

If you are getting water in all 4 cylinders on one side of the motor I would first guess that there is a leak in the exhaust manifold , or the manifold to riser gasket is bad

well, it was a head gasket, actually both heads, i thought it was the exaust since there was water in all cilinders but that wasnt the case, when the boat overheated it went to like aroun 230, to me that didnt seem that hot to bust both heads, i've had my suv at 260 once and its ok, is there a difference in a marine engine? I appreciate all the guys that help me solve this problem. Thanks again guys.

Ordering the temp and oil buzzer today , maybe the light also, cant never be too safe.

of COURSE there is a difference...

Your SUV isn't running at 450+ horsepower continuously as it runs down the interstate at 65mph overheating at 260 degrees. Probably doesn't take but 40 horsepower to maintain highway speed in your SUV. Loads are minimal and combustion pressures are minimal. Additional temperature in the SUV is just that - some additional temperature. With proper levels of antifreeze (50%) your SUV's coolant won't even boil at 15psi (which is what the pressure cap is) until around 265-270. Cooling is still distributed evenly, even though the cap will be hissing.

Your boat has NO antifreeze. At Zero psi of water pressure, the coolant boils at 212 degrees. At 15psi, it boils around 230. Boiling coolant creates air pockets, and guess where they are - at the TOP of the engine - in and around the cylinder heads. Right where the heat needs to be removed most dramatically.

At 450hp, your motor is operating at very high cylinder pressures. The cooling system will be working very hard. Any shortcoming will cause engine temps to begin to rise. Additional temperatures equal additional cylinder pressures. An gasoline engine can only stand so much cylinder pressure until the fuel burn becomes uncontrolled, resulting in DETONATION. Detonation is an explosion of the fuel, not a controlled burn. Detonation causes cylinder pressures to spike to obscene levels. If allowed to run very long in this manner, something's gotta go.

Sounds like you ran it and ran it and then when it refused to run, you tried to run it some more.

You should be extremely happy that the headgaskets let loose. It saved your hard parts.

Thumbs up on the alarm. Lights are okay, but you end up never seeing them on a sunny day. Place the buzzer very close to your ears - experiment with different positions under the dash and find a place where wind noise won't cover it up. Some setups have an external relay connection. i would advise rigging it up to your stereo amp's trigger lead so that if the buzzer goes off, it kills the stereo, so you don't have to worry about Van Halen covering up the sound. (the trigger wire on the amp will usually be blue or be labeled "trigger, on, power antenna" or something like that. You don't want to relay the power to the amp cause you will need a huge relay and it is not healthy to some amps to have the main power cut off during high output usage (some have fans that should run a cool down cycle, etc).

[QUOTE]Originally posted by migara422
well, it was a head gasket, actually both heads, i thought it was the exaust since there was water in all cilinders but that wasnt the case, when the boat overheated it went to like aroun 230, to me that didnt seem that hot to bust both heads, i've had my suv at 260 once and its ok, is there a difference in a marine engine? I appreciate all the guys that help me solve this problem. Thanks again guys.

Ordering the temp and oil buzzer today , maybe the light also, cant never be too safe. [/QUOTE

I would make sure they check the heads for cracks and that nothing is warped. While the heads are off take a look at cylinder walls for any scoring. Not to point at the worst but if you get it right now you will have a great summer ahead with no trouble. If you got it hot enough to burn both head gaskets it got really hot. Water temp gauges with little or no water give incorrect readings. Alarms a great idea. Hope all goes well. :)

I don't think he "burned" the gaskets. I think he "blew" them.

Yes, scoring and/or accelerated bore wear (a ridge at the top of the stroke) could result from use at oil temps above 300 degrees. I am hopeful that his oil didn't get that hot.

Depends on how long it ran dry. At high cruise, it usually doesn't take very long...

I didnt run the engine after i shut it down, when i notice it got hot i shut it off, then when i saw water coming through the headers i figured i start it up to get water through the block but coulnt start, actually the reason why it woulnt start is that i found the wire that goes from the distributor to the coil was broken, so i think that was a blessing on its own.

can a marine engine hydo lock and crack 2 cyl walls and not bend the connecting rods. Is this possible

hydo locked engine
 

Can a engine hydro lock and crack two cyl walls and not bend or dammage the connecting rods. Is this possible

Fixx
 

Depends on what connecting rods you have, iv see it do both,bend the rod and or blow a hole in the cylinder.