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Set Idle on Supercharged motor?
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Ok,
after a long winter we are ready to fire the first engine on a makeshift stand. One of the engines is going to dyno. I want to catch any mistakes leaks or god knows what while the engines are on the floor. These engines were normally asperated last year. We installed Blower pistons Reworked ported merlin heads Iconel valves. cams are crane 139741,s lower ends are Sonny bryant cranks with corrilo rods. Bowtie 540,s Cometic head gaskets 10-71 Mooneyhams Richard lee intercoolers Cupranicheal cores 8-10 lbs boost (will see at Dyno) 49 top pulley 52 bottom Demon 850,s Ok I set static timing its locked at 30 degrees. Filled carbs with fuel. Hook up fuel pump to Can of fresh gas. Stuffed a garden hose in the cross over. No Tstats goes write out the headers. Installed Oil presure gauge Hooked battery wired a lawnmower ignition switch to MSD box and starter . Started write up. Sounds Killer!!! Hooked up Mac Timing light Its Idling at 1500 rpm. Anyone have any pointers on getting good Idle with there blown setups. I turn down the Idle stops then go to the fourcorner Idle circuits and the engine goes from 800 too 1100 surging. Any procedures or suggestions? Welcome to the blower world!! Sorry I am so dam long winded Thanks in advance Gerry |
Looks like BG carbs.They come with a pretty good instructions.Did you boost reference the carbs?.what power valves?. What is the vacuum going down to on the surge it may be opening the power valve? make sure the butterfly's are open the same. measurement look at the transfer slot on the bottom,When you adjust the front idle screw turn the rear the same ,that way the transfer slots will stay the same .The idle screws should be 1-2 turns out . any more or less you can change the idle air bleeds in the top.to get the calibration rite.the engine Water temp will change the idle also. When we dynoed my motor I was able to run more timing 35 dr. When you run it on the dyno watch the exhaust temp with it at 30.Most dyno shops that I have used they want or can not run the motor cold like it would be running on the lake .Remember on the inner cooler not to run water thru it at idle in the boat .it makes the fuel puddle .
At the dyno room we ran a water hose to the inner cooler and on the exit hook up a set up like on the alcohol motors with a shut off valve and a jet in the end of it the set the water pressure. its worked out pretty good that way. On my blower motor I set the idle to surge to be able to shift the bravo on the down cycle.it surged all the way up to 2800 rpm but it was on 12pd of boost.My idle surge was 600-1500rpm.It was a little rich at idle . Had a prob with being lean at midrange. I like the surging :D |
Thanks for the response.
The carbs are 850 demons. I was thinking the same with the power valves opening aggrivating the surge. So before I left the shop I fired it again with two vacuum gauges installed. One under the carbs read 18 to 19 hg at Idle Then the other gauge under blower 12 to 13 hg also at idle. Thats not opening the P/V. Plugs are black within a minute The power valves are on the primarys and they are 6.5 the jets are 86 primary 96 secondarys. The power valve is not referenced. I removed one of the carbs on the motor that is not yet been fired. I was trying to figurie where the demon carb gets its vacuum signal from. I notice it gets it under the base. Pluging this hole and drilling the side to accept a brass hose I would think would be the procedure to reference the PV. However I dont beleave this would cure the surge. One more thing I noticed it appears the throttle plates on the carb have been bent slightly (upward approx .020) allowing more air to flow this appears on all 4 carbs, but only two throttle plates each carb. Any procedure known to adjust these carbs? thanks again Gerry |
When in doubt, call Nickerson Performance in PA. Dean will help you and may suggest you send all 4 carbs to him so he can set them up for the blowers properly. He is the best marine blower carb guy. Might cost you some coin and down time but its worth it.
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Nickerson dialed in my Blower Carb and all I had to do is set the idle stop screw. No transom soot either.
Best money I spent on that engine. |
Originally posted by marinetrans When in doubt, call Nickerson Performance in PA. Dean will help you and may suggest you send all 4 carbs to him so he can set them up for the blowers properly. He is the best marine blower carb guy. Might cost you some coin and down time but its worth it. That would take all the fun out of this. Whaz up Pete??? Today when I had that motor running. I notice even when I whacked the throttle. (Dam thing set all the car alarms at the dealership) the flange on the borg warna didnt even move. Then at idle I checked the forward. Then went back to neutral. Flange came to a nice stop. then hit reverse real nice. before I sent them to you That flange would have been spinning like a skill saw in neutral. Nice Job!! will see how they stand up. Thanks Again pete for your help. Gerry |
I have same cam, & timing in 540 with procharger. Last 2 years with carbs motor idled smoothly (best it can with that cam) at 800 in neutral & 600 in gear.
I remember reading where you need to make sure the intercooler is not getting any water while motor is idleing because it causes the fuel to puddle thus surging. I had a twin turbo setup that had intercooler after carbs & never had surge so not sure that is answer. |
Another real good source for holleys is Pro systems out of Michigan in Sping lake, these guys set my 1050 dom. on my Whippled charged GM and all I did was bolt it on, even the idle was set. They do most of the NASCAR carbs,WWW.pro-system.com
Buck, |
I ment to write NHRA instead of NASCAR but can't edit my own posts?.What's up with that Jeff.
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Originally posted by sutphen30 nothing for nothing,did you make sure the float levels are right.shipping could have f-ed one up.just a thought,then adjust,adjust and adjust. ;) watch out wacking the throttles on the stand,if not secured to the floor it could go for a ride.:crazy: The float levels are at the very top of the sight glass. You actually have to shake it to see the level. I will lower them a tad see if it helps. Gerry |
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I was thinking the same with the level. I cant remember
where the brass style on holleys is placed. this is where I have it now. I am getting about 1000 rpm with no surge. the four corners are all 1\2 turn out and I straightened the butterflies someone tweeked. I had to adjust the throttle stops on all to have approx .010 opening. The plugs are getting brownish and cleaner. There is probrobly only 10 min running time on engine with no load. How long does it take for the rings to seat? Maybe at this point I will change the oil and filter and pull this engine off the stand and try the other engine thats the one we are planning to dyno. lets see what we have to do on the dyno Plugs,timing, pulleys. then with that info I can go back to this engine. |
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This is a revisement I received when I was a Barry Grant dealer.
If the float level is to high you will see it trickle out the boosters while idling. You have to put a load on it to fully seal the rings.On some dynos they have a blowby meter that measures cfm that will tell you how well the rings seat. At only 1/2 turn out you may have to change the Idle feed restrictor.Its sounds like you may have to change the throttle blades if someone bent :eek: them to get more air . usually you just drill the hole in it if it just a Holley carb .But being a Barry Grant you have enfanat adjustably |
It has been my experience that power valves that open at 6.5" hg open too soon and fouled the plugs when I was under way at slow speeds. If the plugs did not foul, because of the superior ignition of the MSD system, then the transom of the boat was black. I cured this problem by switching to power valves that opened at 2.5" hg. The later opening power valves cured my slow speed fouling.
I also referenced my vacuum signal from the supercharger to the intake manifold by closing off the vacuum port with a machine screw and red locktite inside of the Holley Dominator. After this was accomplished I drilled a hole through the side of the dominator and pressed a 1/4" I.D. stainless steel tube dipped in red locktite into the hole. A hole must be drilled and tapped in the engine manifold where a 1/8 npt 1/4"hose barb will be screwed and locktighted in place. A section of quality hose, preferably Gates, will then connect the two. This will give the power valve its signal from the vacuum at the intake manifold rather than through the supercharger. Remember, if the power valve shuts when you are really pushing that engine then a lean condition will occur and a hole in the piston will happen. Best of Luck Ed |
gee gerry, when you put those motors in your car the exhaust is gonna right into your face!!!
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Originally posted by Fuhgedaboudit gee gerry, when you put those motors in your car the exhaust is gonna right into your face!!! The tailpipes go right around my head. :crazy: :frog: Give me some of that Chit! |
awwww whydya gotta be like that....
we cant have anything nice |
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