Dino vs Synthetic
 

What do you guys think is the proper, or best oil to use with a roller cam engine? I've read that synthetic can cause the rollers to slide instead of roll on a basically stock set up. But also understand that overall synthetic will provide better lubricaton.

I have a ZZ502 in my boat that has about 35 hrs. on it. Ran dino in it at first and then changed the oil, and went with Valvoline synthetic 20-50. Would a blend of dino and stnthetic be a good move? Don't need flat spots on the cam. BTW, usually crusing at around 3000 to 3500 rpm's. And now and then a WOT romp stopping at +,-5250 R's.

Thoughts on Viscosity, strait and or multi would also be helpful.

Thanks

Never owned a roller engine, but I do spend a lot of time at work dealing with four slide machines. 4 slides are cam operated wire forming machines and are very similar to an engine in many ways. The important thing with a cam and follower is not so much that the follower turns 100% of the time but that it turns a little every revolution. This keeps the wear even. That being said, I would run synthetic oil in a roller engine. Sliding is not necessarily a bad thing, as long at the roller is turning a little each rev.

I think 20-50w is a little heavy for your engine. I would experiment with 10-30 (early season) and 10-40 synthetic and see what gives you an oil pressure around 60psi at WOT. What oil pressure do you get with the 20-50 at WOT? Problem with running too heavy an oil is the bypass valve will open and your engine will run on non filtered, non cooled oil.

BT :cool:

I hate this subject .......

Me too. Doesn't seem to be a real or final answer.


Hi BT, Idle is about 20 to 25 lbs. and cruising to WOT is 45 to 50 lbs. with the 20-50 synthetic. I agree with you that the 20-50 might be on the heavy side for how I run, and plan on trying something a little lighter. When I get the oil temp gauge in that will also come into play I'm sure.

I read in one of cstraub's threads that synthetic and water don't mix. Heard that before. So at start up after sitting for a week or so, you could initially be sucking pure water from the bottom of the pan. Makes sense, very bad. Therefore think I'll look into a quality synth/dino blend. And as you suggest, something on the lighter side. A blend would also curb somewhat my concerns about the sliding instead of the rolling subject.

Like offthefront says....

Thanks - Bill

when !@#$% synthetic first came out for small air planes.!@#$% had to shellout big bucks to rebuild all engines that used it
personally i've witnessed two flat tappet cams goflat with syn.

This subject has absolutely been beat to death. Check the archives and you will find hundreds of posts on dino vs syn. The roller sliding on the camshaft is a bunch of crap. You guys are thinking to much!

Whiteknuckle, I did do a search but not until after I posted the thread. And you're right, lots of info on the subject and the subject has had the snot kicked out of it. Guess there's no definitive answer.

Sounds like the best thing to do is dump good quality slippery stuff in the mill and change it often
:)

all I know is I have had several Vehicles that have had up to 200K miles on them and 10-14 years old and NEVER had a lubication related Failure ....All on Dyno oil .....but must admit my SC Nissan X has Synthetic in the pan ...dont ask me why ....

I hear you offthefront, Sold my '89 GMC 3/4 ton plow truck about 2 years ago with 178K miles on it and the truck saw nothing but dino. The engine was still running strong when the buyer drove it away. I use a blend in my '01 Chevy and like you, not sure why.

Think I'll go with a blend in the boat engine. Seems like the best of both worlds. Good lubrication and less moisture issues.

Thanks for the input everyone I appreciate it.

LISTEN THIS IS A SCREW BALL SUBJECT . THE FIRST THING WE HAVE TO LOOK AT IS THE FACT THAT NONE OF THESE ENGINES COME WITH SYN. FROM THE FACTORY THE MOST IMPORTANT THING WE NEED TO LOOK AT WHEN USING OIL IS THE FACT THAT THE OIL NEED TO BE CLEAN FOR IT TO WORK PROPERLY. I BUILD CUSTOM MARINE RACING ENGINES FOR A LIVING AND I DON'T RELY ON A SPECIFIC OIL TO KEEP MY ENGINES TOGETHER BUT ON THE CLEARANCES AND FINISHES THAT WE USE INSTEAD. BOTH OILS WHEN USED CORRECTLY WILL RENDER GOOD RESULTS. AND AS FAR AS THE OIL THAT I SEND THE ENGINES OUT WITH THEY LEAVE THE SHOP WITH 20W50 KENDAL AFTER THEY ARE BROKEN IN ON THE DYNO WITH 10W40 KENDAL. AND WHEN USING LOW VISC. OILS IN A MARINE APP. YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THE TEMP THE OIL GENERALLY RUNS AT MOST GUYS THINK ABOUT A CAR WHEN IT COMES TO VISC. A CAR DOES NOT GET THE OIL TEMP NEAR AS HOT AS A MARINE ENGINE.HOPES THIS HELPS EVERYONE OUT LAZ MESA WWW.MESABALANCING.COM