shift problem on Bravo 1,help
 

My Gaffrigs are very hard to shift so I disconnected to the plate on the exh and seemed like it must be in the cable to the outdrive but after removing the outdrive the cable is not that bad. If it's in the box(in the shift box unit) how do I improve it. I really had to force it and it's almost bending the cable at the exh bracket.

Have you tried shifting the outdrive cable by hand w/ engine running?

The motor is running when you tried to shift it right?

previously,yes it was running and very hard to shift
.but now the motors are out for
Prochargers,etc

I recently had a problem where my drive was hard to shift and this is what I found, take off the plate on the top of the drive that faces you and covers the the shifting assembly, there are three bolts, two on top and one on the bottom and be careful when you remove the bolt on the bottom, there is a spring that holds a ball end to the shifter arm, see if it is worn or has had any water in there, it is a sealed area and should be dry, if you see any clean it up and apply some grease. If that does not help then you may have an issue with the gears not moving back and forth freely.

now both drives are off and all the cables move easily but when I turn the drive shaft the shifter linkage is very stiff like sliding on COLD bearing grease.It must be what you said with the gears but is that hard to access and should I just take them to someone.I have built several cars/boats/motors but never gone past here with an outdrive. thanks for any help

did you check the shift mechanism in the drive yet?

The rear cap is only held on with 3 nuts. Peice of cake. Just remember to drian the gear lube out first as the narrowoer upper 1/2 of the rear cap holds lube. When reassembling, use Mercs 2-4-C grease on the ball, spring, and shift levers. Refill the gear case with Merc HP gear lube from the bottom drain plug until the gear lube comes out the top vent plug.

I have the rear plate off and the shift mech. seems OK but without tearing it apart how do I know where the resistance is?

May need to update the shifting plate w/ new style shifting plate (inside drive). New one comes w/ newer springs(orange), and the plate will have a series of "ramps" on it to help shift better.Usually that will take care of it, if the things the guys said above don't seem to work (try their stuff first).

thanks
Any idea what I should expect to pay for each drive if the problem is that shift upgrade and nothing else? I always repair my own stuff and have no idea what is reasonable. I just bought an old "90 29' Fever with twins 454's and am installing prochargers,intakes,exhaust,new interior, Aeromotive pumps and stuff and I am getting tired of spending,,but really looking forward to some high speed high profile(all polished Alum)boating(and embarassing some jerks).

If the drives are 1990 you may need to change the cones from the old 3 groove cone to the newer 6 groove cone along w/ shift plate. You'll need a new cone, new shift plate/springs, seal kit.Also might want to upgrade the old drive shift linkage to the new style "black" linkage (heavier duty). When you replace the shift plate don't forget to get 2 new allen bolts for the shift rod (not using long allen bolt when you assemble). New parts cost, around 450.00 to 475.00 per drive.

You can replace the just the cone? Not the intire cone clutch kit with gears? I had one weld up on me last summer (1991 bravo). I then I had to buy the whole kit. for $900.

I like it if I can just buy the upgraded cone as peventative mantanence on the other drive.

Not an expert, but had shifting problems on one motor last year after I bought my boat. The mechanic I took it too determined that the cables forward seemed to be OK, but the cone gear set that does the shifting was worn and causing the problem. You apparently can't just buy a worn part but the whole gear set assy. Going price around $900, I think more now. Anyway, replaced them and cables while I was at it. Everything is fine now.

John
Sunrise Upholstery
www.sunriseuph.com
38 MM, LOTO, MO

You can buy the cone from a newer standard Bravo.Then I take the gears and bead blast the area where the cone rides. I take the new cone, put some fine valve grinding compound and lap it into the gear lightly(mark the cone and gear to match, when assembling).Been doing it since Merc went NLA on older cones. Works well.

Hmmmmm
Thanks Marinetrans