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Re: Blower Fuel System
Originally Posted by tomcat
Caveman:
What do you mean by motor shutdowns? Do you mean the motor starts laying down at high RPM? How much fuel pressure do you have at this speed? Why do you suspect the fuel plumbing and not the jetting? If you have 8 psi in the fuel rail at speed, the fuel plumbing is doing its job. However, good points have been raised about the desirability of a bypass regulator. I just read the Aeromotive website. Go there if you want to get an earful about static regulators. There is an easy way for you to avoid heating fuel in the internal bypass of an electric pump. I see that you have a mechanical pump in parallel with an electric pump/regulator. If you activate the electric pump with a Hobbs pressure switch you wouldn't have to worry about heating fuel up at low speed. Because you have basically have a two speed pumping system, you avoid the problem of having an Aeromotive A1000 pump moving 1000 HP worth of fuel at idle and recirculating 99% of it. With that single pump system you almost have to recirculate through a fuel cooler if you go back to your filter, or go straight to the tank with a return line. I dont know if you remember me but you answered one of my posts last year before I added the blowers. I was considering your product. Or maybe the Procharger with your cooler. But If you recall I had a counter and procharger didnt want to here it. I had the same result from Whipple also. Its all about where the majority lies. Or should I say Money. Let me say that I think your product is awsome the kind of Hp numbers your getting makes me wonder why I didnt persue it further. Anyway As you can see I ended up with the roots mainly because of its simplicity to counter rotate. When I say engines quitting. They wouldnt lie down up top. But more in the midrange. For the brief trial run I had. you would be at lets say 3500 when you would notice the speed drop. Then a glimpse of the port tach would show it dropping. Then I would lay in on the stick and it would not take it. I would glimpse at the fuel pressure gauges on the other side of the boat. but didnt really see it drop. I would shut the boat down open the hatch just to make sure everything is still intact. Then a quick turn of the key and it would fire up again. This happened three times to the port and once to the starboard. I found a loose wire from the ignition run to the little red wire to the msd box thought for sure that was it. But then it occured again. I messed with everything so I am second guessing everything I have done. I will get it.I Just need more time on the water and more ideas. Maybe even videotape the cockpit. When I get the boat back on the trailer I seem to forget everything. Gerry |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Hi Gerry:
Yes, I remember your counter rotating engine. Vortech makes counter rotating compressors but they would have to be mounted in front of the other cylinder head and the supercooler would have to be built as mirror image of the standard one. Possible to do, but not as easy as flipping the drive gears on a Roots blower. If the fuel pressure gauges are OK then I think I would start looking at the carbs. If they are too rich in the mid range, would the engine load up and lose power? I see what looks like a boost reference line for the power valves. Does this problem occur beyond the point where the power valves open? Are the secondaries open yet? What I do sometimes is mark the throttle sticks at the point where the secondaries are just about to open. Then I look at the vacuum to see if the power valves are just about to open. This way you can get the primaries jetted right. In your case you may not be able to separate the primaries and the power valves this way since you may already have a little boost at the speed in question. Remember I'm the air guy, not the fuel guy, but I love a problem to solve. Good luck! |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Originally Posted by caveman
Thanks for the response.
I dont know if you remember me but you answered one of my posts last year before I added the blowers. I was considering your product. Or maybe the Procharger with your cooler. But If you recall I had a counter and procharger didnt want to here it. I had the same result from Whipple also. Its all about where the majority lies. Or should I say Money. Let me say that I think your product is awsome the kind of Hp numbers your getting makes me wonder why I didnt persue it further. Anyway As you can see I ended up with the roots mainly because of its simplicity to counter rotate. When I say engines quitting. They wouldnt lie down up top. But more in the midrange. For the brief trial run I had. you would be at lets say 3500 when you would notice the speed drop. Then a glimpse of the port tach would show it dropping. Then I would lay in on the stick and it would not take it. I would glimpse at the fuel pressure gauges on the other side of the boat. but didnt really see it drop. I would shut the boat down open the hatch just to make sure everything is still intact. Then a quick turn of the key and it would fire up again. This happened three times to the port and once to the starboard. I found a loose wire from the ignition run to the little red wire to the msd box thought for sure that was it. But then it occured again. I messed with everything so I am second guessing everything I have done. I will get it.I Just need more time on the water and more ideas. Maybe even videotape the cockpit. When I get the boat back on the trailer I seem to forget everything. Gerry If they would not take anymore stick, i would look at your valve springs, just a thought. |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Originally Posted by Krumbsnatcher
OK describe what you mean by the engines laying down. Did they just stay at 3500 rpm no matter what you did with the stick or did they stall out.
If they would not take anymore stick, i would look at your valve springs, just a thought. the fuel the other dosnt. I really dont try keep it running. I pull back on the throttles and then find one stalled. Then turn the key it fires right up again. maybe I will rig some kind of parrel lights to the Msd to make sure its not loosing its 12 volt. |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Ok I ended up running returns back to each tank and using a return regulator after carbs. Tested again The run was overall good however the engines where still laying down. This was after the first plug check on the primarys which revealed a nice 3/4 black ring around the first thread. and a ground strap which was showing a heated electrode approx.
right at the weld. I removed the two # 6 to the carbs and did a flow check It was spitting fuel. Jumping the electric fuel pump out. Put boat back on trailer took it back to shop and traced the # 10 line suction side to the tank. Low and behold the pickup tubes were only 3/8 id. With a 90 degree threaded to the very top of tube. inside there were pen screens totaly pluged with hair and god knows what. I went and repalced the tubes with true 1/2 inch I/d and threw away the screens. Isnt that what the high flow Wix filters are for? Cant wait to try again maybe tonight. Gerry |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Did you check your water separator? You may have bad fuel...What size is the P/U in the tank? It doesn't matter what size your fuel lines are if the P/U is small.
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Re: Blower Fuel System
Originally Posted by GEOO
Did you check your water separator? You may have bad fuel...What size is the P/U in the tank? It doesn't matter what size your fuel lines are if the P/U is small.
that I have run this boat for the last 4 seasons with these screens pluged this way. Even if I search most of my need advice threads on this forum they all point to these pickup tubes. Some people even suggested that the cams were the reason I couldnt pull past 5000rpm. Now with the blowers and 4 carbs and really showed up. Sometimes The simple things are overlooked. Gerry |
Re: Blower Fuel System
Originally Posted by sutphen30
what screens are you talking about?glad its fixed.
I quickly pulled it out and said "oh its just a tube" DUH!! then just put it back never taken it completely apart until now.They are located at the top of the rear of the main tank. They are thick wall alumminum tubes with a inside diamiter of 3/8. These tubes are threaded at the top in which they thread into a 3/8 90 degree fitting then that fitting and the tubes slide into the 3/8 female tank bungs. Where the alumminum tubes meet the 3/8 elbow is where they inserted little and i mean 5/16 pen screens. They were completly pluged. That was probrobly the best find yet since I have owned the boat. I threw away those tubes. I went to my local hobby shop and got 15\32 brass tubes which fit perfecly into a 3/8 brass nipple. Soldered them toghether.These are now my pickups and it allows me to still utilize the tank bungs ( no tank modifications) and 1\32 under a 1/2 inch pickup. |
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