Merc trim problem
 

My 1988 Wellcraft Nova (26) w/ single 502/ Bravo I drive has had a weird problem with the trim switch lately. It has a Merc. Quicksliver throttle control (the straight stick w/ the thumb trim switch- don't really know the model name). Sometimes it works ok, other times I'll hit the thumb (trim) and it will not move. If I bump the "trailer" button for a second while I'm trying to trim it, it will take off and I can move it and it will continue to work until I let off the button. Anybody run into this one before?
Thanks,
John

Re: Merc trim problem
 

Mine does that once and awhile also... not a Merc switch, but gaffrig controls... so I would rule out that... I am interested in seeing that this is also.

Re: Merc trim problem
 

Try replacing the solenoid on the trim pump. About $20 at NAPA, or $10 online. That would be my first guess.

Re: Merc trim problem
 

It's the T.L. (trim limit) sender on the the left (port) side of the outdrive at the pivot on the gimble ring. It's making and breaking contact when you don't want it to and not when it should. It comes and goes--a real pain in the a$$. Live with it, bypass that circuit, or change it out. (not the most fun thing). --- jp

Re: Merc trim problem
 

Thanks guys- I was going to change the trim limit switch anyhow because my trim gauge sending unit is also shot and they are sold/serviced as a pair. If the solenoid is that cheap, maybe I will do it to just as PM. It is probably the original one.
Thanks again,
John

Re: Merc trim problem
 

You'll find there's two solenoids/relays. One for each direction.
Mine worked intermittently in the down direction. Bought a new relay at West Marine (17.00 +/-) and it did the trick. In fact, it now runs faster down (in?) than up. I'll replace the other as soon as they replenish their stock.

Re: Merc trim problem
 

check one other thing if this is a bravo drive

the indicator or limit "pucks" can get out of calibration and therefore the limit is on the wrong range of drive position. (works when you don't want, and doesn't where you do) this may be caused by the pivot bolt behind the
indicator (puck) being loose. i had to redo mine on both drive last winter. the bolt can back out and be loose behind this puck, and thus the rotation calibration is off. OR in my case. the bolts were stripped. (stainless bolts in threaded aluminum housing) the fix is a stainless helicoil inserted into the stripped aluminum housing hole. same bolt is then used.

pull the pucks and make sure those bolts (large allen head) torque to 50 ft-lbs. if they don't let me know and i will send you my helicoil kit (drill, tap, and helicoils). i have let two others borrow it. so it is a common problem

keep us posted.

oh....and put some antiseize on the two small srews used to adjust the pucks. stainless and aluminum don't mix and these can seize over time.