martiniboat

Ok guys, I've been searching through the archives for a few hours before posting this and here's my story...


New short block 502 w/ Merlin heads, Comp Cams stainless roller rockers, stud girdle etc. I've adjusted the valves statically a few times using different techniques (with poor results eg. rough idle and running, some valvetrain 'clacking') and after throwing the 'half' covers on to contain the anticipated torrential oilstorm I fire it up only to get a halfhearted offering. Even at 3000rpm the oil still really isn't squirting like I thought it should. The smallest offering is at #1 cyl. of course ( only starts to flow at around 2000-2500RPM) and I'm really thankful at this point that everybody enjoyed 'some' oil but what's going on here? I thought I had some dud hyd. lifters until I saw the low oil delivery...

1) all galley plugs are in
2) using dino 10W30 for break-in
3) new oil filter
4) had already primed the system with an old modified dist.
5) held my tongue in several positions while wrenching
6) using MSD dist. w/ o-rings installed

I've thought of using a higher quality thicker oil but I think this would only be a band-aid.

Hmmn, I'm lost here...

Brian

P.S. As a sidenote, I've installed this baby in my dually 'shop' truck for the break-in period while it proves itself reliable. Easy wrenching too!

goob

First off big blocks don't squirt like small blocks.
Are your pushrods spinning?
Is the lash set right or does it still need adjusted?
Did you soak the lifters in oil before installing them? If not you might have the lifter collapsed while adjusting.
Mike

martiniboat

Pushrods on number one have been spinning, I didn't check the others while it was running.

I went through the lash setting procedures several times and was sure they were set properly. I didn't soak the lifters before the installation (I know there are folks on both sides of the fence on that one) but I could tell without a doubt when zero lash was obtained and tried from 1/2 to 1 full turn (after zero) during my repeated attempts. My final attempts with the engine running proved that #1 intake would not pump up (collapsed) since I could not tighten the valve past zero without an RPM increase. (valve hanging open) As I worked down the line closer to the distributor I found that the closest ones were pumping up somewhat.

I forgot to mention in my first post that the oil pressure on the guage is good. (don't ask me exactly what it is since it's a metric guage and I'm old school, but in comparison to the previous engine it's right up there!)

Mike, I didn't realize that BBC pump less than SBC. I know from my past experiences that adjusting the SBC valvetrain can be quite messy w/o using the restrictor clips and the 'half' valve cover. I'd be happy right now with just a fraction of that oil spray!

Am I missing something obvious with the oiling system?

Brian

Lmarth

I don't have total recall, but there was a lengthy thread on this 6-8 weeks ago. Not sure, but thought the problem was that the lifters weren't pumped up when the motor was rebuilt and fired up. Couple of approaches was to put them in a container of oil and taking an old pushrod to work the plunger up/down. Someone else put the pushrod in a drill press and worked the plunger up/down. For what it's worth.

rmbuilder

Martiniboat
From Cranes FAQ:
Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil?
Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, however this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a “solid” and prevent obtaining proper preload.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3
Bob

Lmarth

Bob-- Thanks for straightening us out!--Lou

martiniboat

Lou- I read that thread too and also tried the drill press and pushrod pumping method (after the fact w/ a new lifter) I couldn't for the life of me get the new lifters to pump up using that method. (which I thought would've been pretty cool)

Bob- You've reinforced my inadequate oil pressure theory and I thank you...I think Now I have to figure out why the guage reads good but the lifters tell me otherwise. Any thoughts?

Thanks to both of you for your response to my plight.

Brian

rmbuilder

Martiniboat,
Try bleeding off the oil in the lifters and starting over. Set your lifter preload using the EO/IC method explained further in that FAQ. It requires setting the preload on the intake side just as the exhaust valve begins to open, and setting the exhaust preload when the intake valve is closing. This will insure that each lifter is on its base circle when you set the preload. After a few min of run time you should see adequate supply to the upper valve train.
Bob

martiniboat

The EO/IC method is the one I tried when the other static methods seemed to fail me. (and it's the one I'm adopting from now on)

I've got a new set of lifters in my grubby little hand and will use the EO/IC method right from the getgo. I'm a little gunshy right now and don't mind replacing the old ones. (even if they're still good) It'll give me a good baseline to work from again.

What's your experience with the oil flow from the top of the valvetrain on a BBC with the covers off? Messy? Meager?

B

rmbuilder

Martiniboat
In most cases minimal oil flow is all that is required, especially with roller rockers. It reduces the complications associated with excessive drain back and the resulting windage. Competition applications with very aggressive profiles require much greater spring loads. The increased rpm levels and loads generate more heat, and heat is the spring killer. In these instances we route oil spray to the rocker boxes to cool the coils but that is certainly not necessary in these applications.
Bob