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Piston scuffing
puke tank oil |
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a little wall washing
My new dart block need a good bit of deburing |
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left over
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Did the crank look like that when you built it? With those lines in it?
That rear main is weird looking... almost like the main bore was out of round with the oil pump bolted on. |
Just curious, how many guys are running aluminum rockers and how long do they last??
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Originally Posted by mmb
(Post 3850747)
Did the crank look like that when you built it? With those lines in it?
That rear main is weird looking... almost like the main bore was out of round with the oil pump bolted on. Naw the crank was smooth,The rod bearings were putting off a little metal,I sent picks and the bearings to Clevite and they said the bearings were doing its job, Everybody said that there was a lot of trash in the rod bearings ,That I didnt clean the motor on assembly,Clevite said it wasn't that much on the age of the motor , When I took the heads apart on the main shim under the valve springs was wearing,I think my X machine shop put a non hardened shim along with the thin shims,thats were I saw some bronze in the head and filter/ oil,coming from. The rear main we think is from the oil pump stud pulling on the cap making a gap in the bearing in that area,Ive seen it before. The crank surface will polish up,The cam lobes polished up real easy, I just took the heads and crank to Precision marine let them ck out the heads and crank,Ive been playing with the dart block and hopefully take it next weekend let them hone and sq deck it.Pistons should be in and mark can balance it,ill be ready to go then. Rob the other motor has 2 season on it and were going to ck the shims on the head on it too, the bearings are looking good on it,that motor I replaced everything in it on last build, The rings ,Total seal, Not the gap less, I sent them the rings for the hell of it he said that the looked norm for the hours, the they were alittle beveled and had alittle cupping on the bottom,which I knew why anyway.They said keep doing what I was doing and make sure when the hone the block to follow Darts recommend procedure on honing. |
heres a few more picks, its going slow:( but its starting to come together
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psa19b8c0a.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psaf27aba2.jpg |
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been doing alot of deburing
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...pscf33510a.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psaac1cf5a.jpg |
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I buffed and waxed my oil pan.
:drink: I got port motor together,new head studs, rocker studs,oil pump, timing chain dart adjustable guide plates,they were a pain to make line up,it needs a better locking/boat system,its only got like 14 INCH pds of TQ,had to be real careful tq the rocker studs,I did pull the bottom down and the rods bearings looked good and the main 2 had a little trash/mark on them so I replaced the mains,After I got the heads back from being checked out,I was cleaning them with brake cleaner an saw were it was leaking past the seat when i sprayed on the ports,prob been ok once it was running, prob rust/carbon,so I pulled the port heads back down and re-lapped them in, I have a spring compressor,so I made sure with 104 hours the port motor is pretty fresh already,I bored and replace everything in it 4-2010,It dropped a exhaust seat,lucky it only hurt the one hole,it didn't drop a valve but was close,so I bored it did what Im doing to the starboard motor,I guess ya call it preventive maintenance, replacing all the guts and valve train etc. When I did the rebuild in 2010 I redynoed the motor on 93 with ethanol, I had thought it might of cause the seat to fall out, but the tune was still good all the way thru,it actually made more power,not sure if it was a fresh bore/rebuild or combo of it and the ethanol? prob the fresh motor because it made a half pd more boost on the dyno, 883hp. |
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The starboard engine is coming together,I had to go back and do some more deburing after getting it back from the machine shop,it wasn't washed and was full of metal,I made sure I cleaned real good in the around the cam bearings since they were all ready installed,I checked all the bearing diameters and the block was .0005 tight,so with Clevite bearings having a tolerance of .0003 that .0005 would make a difference,also my crank is on the small side of spec.
Check of the pan with all the black stuff in it, this was from washing the dart guide plates and Comp cams steel roller rockers,Dont assume they are clean being new and look clean,I didn't think I would of got that much off them. The starboard motor I am only reusing the crank,cam,and bare heads,everything else in New. |
I replaced the oil pumps and bought new Moroso pick ups, just like what I had before , the new moroso pickups are junk,the screen is over hanging over the edge and looks like it needs trimming,like they may fall off or break.Ill get a picture.
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picks
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:party-smiley-004:
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Rob, Just would like to bring to your attention; oil pick-up. Is that a full interference fit on tube, into pump? If not; it should be tig welded the full circumference, to prevent aeration.
Iam not 100% knowledgeable, on the Moroso pickups, Stefs does mine and they require a full weld. Mark |
Those Dart Adj plates are a bit of a pain to get things lined up, but still easier than the cut/weld method!
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Originally Posted by MER Performance
(Post 3901876)
Rob, Just would like to bring to your attention; oil pick-up. Is that a full interference fit on tube, into pump? If not; it should be tig welded the full circumference, to prevent aeration.
Iam not 100% knowledgeable, on the Moroso pickups, Stefs does mine and they require a full weld. Mark Mark thanks for the info,my machine shop installed it,not sure on it,I assume its a tight fit,the old style was tight,had to tap/hammer on,all my old ones have all have been welded all the way around,But im not sure its a air tight seal,they only put a spot on it in-case i ever wanted to take it apart and reuse the pickup. Rob |
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On The new head studs the short ones look alittle long,shoulder showing, the kit was for a reg bbc,the stud is 4.375.wonder if the nut will bottom out with the washer? I haven't tq them down yet,arp makes one .250 shorter also.I figure the washer is .125
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fixx
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3901551)
picks
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Originally Posted by FIXX
(Post 3902150)
pic V i always remove that plug and loctite it..you never know..
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fixx
Originally Posted by Strip Poker 388
(Post 3902217)
you talking about were the pressure spring is?
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Tickfaw 200 get to work !:evilb:
Less typey more workey:grinser010: |
this was in the fuel filter,trying figure out what it is,
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psea2ef883.jpg |
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Ethanol eating the rubber hose?
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Originally Posted by tomtbone1993
(Post 3923202)
Ethanol eating the rubber hose?
When Ive seen the rubber deteriot its been chunks, it looks like black paint, glue and flakes |
getting close, ill post all the other stuff when I get a chance,the good and the bad:drink:
The new dart gen 6 block requires a gen 4 oil filter adapter,the front ascy bolt holes are not deep enough to put the regular studs in,I had to cut the thread part about 200-.300,wasent a way to tap deeper,the water drain on the starter side is blocked by the starter,don't know who the stupid fu*k that designed that one:( no provision for a knock sensor,even the non drilled bosses are in bad places,its 1/4 npt,and didn't want to drill to far to tap it deeper,so the knock sensor is shallow .Also doesn't have a port for the oil pressure gauge sensor on the side of the block like gm's gen 6,it had some on the back below the china rail,but most gen6 and 500eifs all the wiring goes across there and no way to put anything else there.hope this help someone before they getinto it. polishing http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps8a338fce.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps939afb00.jpg http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps1c6fc21a.jpg |
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps986c1ec7.jpg
new steel blower studs,it want blow the blower off, lol http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps78f44694.jpg upgraded the blower pulley bolt to arp,those allen heads looked weak http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psd7c591cf.jpg look how the 2 plates dont line up very good, http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...psaeabaaeb.jpg |
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reprint from enginebuilder mag
Surface Finish Requirements MLS head gaskets are made of several layers of embossed stainless steel (most are 3 or 4 layers thick, but some have more). A thin coating (.001˝ to .0015˝) of nitrile rubber or Viton is used on the external surfaces as well as between the layers to provide maximum sealing. Most aftermarket MLS gaskets can handle surface finishes as rough as 60 to 70 Ra microinches, but some specify a smoother finish of 30 to 50 Ra. Smoother is always better, and if you can get the finish down to the low teens or even single digit, great! But for most applications, a surface finish in the 20 to 30 Ra range is more than smooth enough for a performance MLS gasket. If you are building a street performance engine that has a cast iron block and aluminum heads, and are using conventional steel/fiber composite head gaskets or expanded graphite head gaskets, the surface finish should ideally be 60 to 80 Ra (360 to 480 Rz). Don’t go smoother than 40 Ra (240 Rz) or rougher than 100 Ra (600 Rz) with a composition gasket. Rougher surfaces limit gasket conformance, while smoother surfaces increase the tendency for gaskets to flow, reducing the gaskets blow out resistance. If you are using a stock MLS head gasket, the surface finish should be 30 Ra (180 Rz) or less unless the MLS gasket has a thicker coating that can seal a rougher surface. Note: Never apply any kind of sealer to a MLS gasket! It may react with the coating and cause a problem. Though Ra (Roughness Average) has traditionally been used to describe surface finish, most gasket engineers today say a more accurate perimeter is Rz, which is the average difference between the peak height and valley depth. Ra can have a wide variance across a given surface profile, so Rz gives a better indication of the actual texture across the surface. To measure Ra or Rz, you need a profilometer. If you don’t have one, you are shooting in the dark and assuming the surface finish you’re getting is in the ball park. Maybe it is and maybe it isn’t. The only way to know for sure is to actually measure it. Most dry milling machines with the proper CBN or PCD cutting bits can achieve an extremely smooth surface finish. Waviness across the surface is also important. The less waviness the better: no more than .0004˝ with MLS head gaskets. Trouble is, you can’t measure waviness with a profilometer. It takes special (expensive!) lab equipment. Waviness problems can be caused by vibrations and a lack of rigidity in milling equipment. The flatness of the head and block surfaces is also critical in a performance engine. The maximum amount of out-of-flat should not exceed .001˝ within three inches in any direction in a stock engine, so even less is best for a performance build. For a V8 engine, the maximum allowable out-of-flat specification for stock cylinder head and block deck surfaces is .004˝ lengthwise and .002˝ sideways. Aim for .002˝ if you’re building a performance engine. For a V6, the recommendation for a stock engine is less than .003˝ out-of-flat lengthwise and .002˝ sideways. Again, shoot for half that with a performance build. As for an in-line six cylinder engine, the stock recommendation is no more than .006˝ lengthwise and .002˝ sideways out of flat. If you have .003˝ or less out-of-flat lengthwise and .001˝ sideways, you should be in good shape to seal up the head gasket. |
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On the 500efi merc motors comes with arp head bolts, I switched to studs w/ 12 point heads, The CMI headers will have to be clearance to clear the studs,it almost goes to the outside weld on the flange,[ATTACH=CONFIG]501837[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]501838[/ATTACH]
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First I ever heard of Ra or Rz, learned something new today, then again never built my own motor. Something I have always wanted to do but the more I learn I realize how little I actually know about it.
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Still following. My blocks are currently at the machine shop. Can you post the part number of the pump you are using to change your oil. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by peter01
(Post 3936058)
Still following. My blocks are currently at the machine shop. Can you post the part number of the pump you are using to change your oil. Thanks.
DAYTON Utility Pump 115VAC - Flexible Impeller Pedestal Pumps - 5UXL7|5UXL7 - Grainger Industrial Supply Harbor freight has one like it also |
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Finally got it running, working out a few leaks etc, Trying to figure out why the new Whipples are down on boost on both engines?? I did find out people recommending the wrong sealants for the superchargers sealing surfaces.
I was told the Permatex Anaerobic Red was better than everything , It dissolved from the gas,It leaked the first time I hit boost,so i had to pull both blowers off and take them apart and reseal them.:mad: In between this Whipple recommended the right stuff,Glad I didn't use it,Its not made for gas contact either, so it would of dissolved also, I found out the Right stuff and the ultra black has the same adhesive and sealing property's, one has a quicker set up time, but both require 24 hour cure time, again Permatex told me that it would fail and leak too After cleaning all the gummy red shet off I used old faithful Permatex #3 aviation form a gasket, It is gasoline proof. Now the Permatex tech said they have a sealant that's impervious to most everything,He recommended it, Permatex Permasheild in a silver tube,blue/gray color, He said it would be the best product for sealing up all the supercharger surfaces and hold up to boost ,I could all so use it on the orings, like the whipples will leak at the ends were there is no bolts, So next time ill try the Permasheild. this info in from my experience and what Permatex tech told me, fyi I have put my old pulleys on today and it should tell me if its the blowers. Rob |
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