Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

The KE oil thermastate adacptor has steel fittings in it,rusting

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

I pulled a rod out and the center main just to see . The rod and mains are standard ,GOOD Bearing look good a little trash ,not bad , no signs of detonation and the main cap showed no chatter.I figure I put in new rod bolts and maybe bean polish the rods ?

I'll ck the rest tomorrow .upps its already tomorrow 2.50 am .

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

Eric Its the ware house where Bob works at , heated and cooled. That night it was cold out and the floor was even warm I have rebuilt his boat motor for him there also.every thing works out in the end

Its great to have good friends

Thanks Bob

Back4More

Thanks for the pics...keep us updated.
BTW, are you goin to open up the drives too?...would love to see what you find in there.

Lmarth

Rob- Great pictures. Boat/trailer look like they just rolled out of the showroom. Did you buy those engine cradles or make them? At the risk of embarrassing myself, what's the deal with that fitting on the bottom of the oil pan? Is that standard or was it added? Don't think my 800SC's have anything like that. As for the hatch bolts, I remember the previous owner of my Slingshot complaining that they always loosened up. I thought he said he changed them to Stainless which may keep them from galling. Keep the pictures coming-great stuff! Lou

Linster

Strip

The pistons are not stock. You were right they are flat top JE that are mostly used for a blower. They have a -3cc eye. I just ran the numbers, with 119 head, 10.9 gasket, .020 in the hole, -3 on the piston, that comes to 8.45CR. You were giving up some power. Also I noted the removes the Merc Thermostat housing from the block that has the built in oil thermostat. The oil pan is not stock, but looks much better.

I am curious to see which way you go. I have two 500EFI coming out of mine next weekend. The intake does not look restrictive as everyone seems to think.

I would take a look at the cam as well. I bet a blower cam was installed. The heads look like someone did a good job cleaning them up.

I still stand by the GM head gasket. I have had problems with the 17048 sealing. The GM comes on all Merc 502's. You usually have to pry it off to get it loose.

Keep posting pictures. Please post any advice on upgrades you find.

open87

iTrader: (2)

it's 5:30 tuesday morning ,go to bed rob

mcollinstn

Hey, looks like Bob stole one of my Towmotors. I've got one exactly like it, cept mine isn't scuffed up so much.

The rockers are usually clearanced at Merc for the bolts. I don't think that was done by the previous owners.

Extrude hone is magic. But it's expensive. If you plan to blow it, it isn't going to matter as much anyhow. For a blower motor, your main area for improvement is in the ports in the heads, and a good 3 angle valvejob.

The washers on the bolt tell me that there is some trash in the bottom of the threaded hole in the block. And that the bolt bottomed out before it clamped the head properly. And they found out too late to try to clean it out and chase the threads, so they used washers. Before you go back together, run a bottoming tap into all the holes and clean them out well. Use a good sulfur oil when you do it to make the threads all nice and pretty. Double check your hole depth with a head bolt and be sure it freely spins in to a depth of less than what you will be clamping.

Always a good idea to polish the beams, but don't remove much metal. I've seen too many that have been "polished" far enough to weaken them. And don't polish crosswise. And of course, you will need to rebalance if you polish. And resize if you use new bolts (which you should do).

Crank journals could use a good micropolish. Or ultrafine crocus cloth and lacquer thinner.

Infomaniac

That is a total seal gapless ring in the second groove.

mcollinstn

Yeah. The old style gapless used a conventional top ring.

The new style uses a conventional second ring and a gapless top ring. Supposedly takes care of some cylinder bore lube problems they ran into with the old style set.

They take a different hone procedure than "usual" and recommend a 20 degree X-hatch which is what it looks like you've got from the pics. If you use the gapless, you'll need to call them and get the honing procedure. Don't just bolt on the torque plate and slam a 45 degree hatch in there...