Re: Hustler 500efi engine tear down & Build Up
 

Thanks Linnie .I know I am going to shorten them they must be 5 foot long.theres a bunch of wires back there :( I am going to change the plug wires also,there 4 years old.Thinking about some valve covers too.

I just got some smaller pullys for the blower.


Rob :drink:

Re: Hustler 500efi engine tear down & Build Up
 

Let us know how the extra power helps. 105?

Re: Hustler 500efi engine tear down & Build Up
 

Yep :drink:

http://x7.putfile.com/2/4517130215-thumb.jpg


http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4...4medium4jr.jpg

Re: Hustler 500efi engine tear down & Build Up
 

leek down before tear down #2

Bill there JE 30 over pistons,cr is around 8.6 8.7

Rob:drink:

everything go good wed....

Good , they made a little more power,

Dyno sheet

I found my old dyno step test video

http://px2.sfstatic.com/handlers/Get...d=183711&w=120Hustler Whipple blower dyno step test,7psi

Why wasnt the block painted blue instead of black when you got it back?

I figured the blue wouldn't show up much,also all the shiny stuff would look better against the black.The only thing left Merc blue is the alternator.

I just wish everything else would hold up like my motors:rolleyes::(
Thats 4 summers on the motors with the whipples:ernaehrung004:

Rob,
Great looking motors. I would like to build something similar for the DCB, but I'm going to have to do a few more crowns before the swap. For a package like yours, do you think you'd be time and money ahead to start from scratch or purchase used 500's? Eric

You must polish on them things to keep them looking that good. They look like new. Did U make a stand to run them on?

What did you do with the old EFI set up?

what do ya have now? I started with 500efi's. I would do it a again,if ya can afford buying a extra set,sure, All I used stock was the out side stuff and block,crank,heads.I updated/change every thing else,the Eagle rods are cheap,If mine didn't need work I would of used them,but I got the eagle for 308.00.I figure you could use the stock 500efi with good head gaskets,depend on hours, just bolt on the Whipple and have low 700hp pretty easy, but I bet you want more than 750!!:drink:If ya need some help just holler.


Baja_man I sold all of it to re coop the cost of the build/blowers

No stand.Linnie I pull them every winter to repolish everything:eek: this winter I ringed and bearing it,it all looked good!! Had a gimble ring pin break when I was running the #'s last blast of the year,so Ive got both transom asys out redoing/rebuilding them, those rings & stuff had gone up:(.Had some gear probs with the drives also:(That was unexpected $$$$$



Rob:ernaehrung004:

Hey Rob...just wanted to say that your project came out awesome and your work paid off!!!! Everything looks prestine. You want to do mine!:drink:

Thanks, ya got 500efi's in the 29? Zoom Zooom:ernaehrung004:

Hey Rob,

Just curious... What happened to the B-Max drives?? I would bet the lowers let go. Last summer I tore down a B-Max lower for a friend running considerably more power than you, but in a 26' single engine. He was eating lowers every 10hours or so hours. I set him up with a set of treated ( Mr Gadget ) gears. He made the entire summer ( a first ) . I believe he put something like 25 hours on it. I tought him how to do his own tear downs. This winter, he tore it down himself and found no signs of wear!! He just closed it back up, we'll see what happens this year.

No...only small blocks. Can't fit big blocks, or so they say!:Whatever:

Looks like you juuuuust about got those bad boys in there.... makes me think about mine...

I sent them back to get check out for next season, The port one I didn't think I had a prob, the oil was always clear and no metal on the mag, The Star started putting out metal around July, it was turning the oil dark and like it was full of antiseze,sliver.I had sent Dean a sample at that oil change,he said it looked fine,

Had a upper gear go bad:(He said he doesn't know what caused it.The lower gears are just stock Merc's. Yes the weak link,thats the reason I bought a spare lower,just in case on vacation,if it broke I could swap out and not ruin my vacation.I got a 104 hours, 2 summers on the upper gear (star) and the lower gears in the port.The Port upper he said was fine.I would of thought the upper gear would of lasted longer?

I wish this stuff would hold up like my motors:drink:

Vinny is that the same gears Smitty and Bob did?

Are ya planing on keeping it or move up.You could put Whipples and headers,but $$$$$

I have a buddy that had one like yours 350mags,it was pretty tight looking.

Rob:ernaehrung004:

Hey Rob I just found this thread, read it from the start. Great stuff on you build.

Nice to run into you at the auto show...see ya in Biloxi.

Brad.

Same here Brad, hopefully we will have a good turn out of boats.See ya there:ernaehrung004:

Rob,

I would like to move up to a bigger boat and power... put if mine doesn't sell...I'll keep it stock unitl the 5 year warranty runs out, then maybe do what you suggested.

We will be there also, stayn at the hotel by the dry pits. Had Great time last year!!
Not enough time to bring rig down tho.

Quinlan

wow
 

Rob,

You did a fantastic job of documenting and writing up your build!
Thanks for taking all the effort to share your experience with the community.

I documented the build on my new boat in the Laveycraft forum and it takes a lot more time than people think to scan and put up all that info.

Looks like an awesome ride, and as someone who has done this kind of work (although only on single engine rides) I'm sure the end result is all the sweeter everytime you turn the key.

Thanks again.


Uncle Dave

LaveyCraft 2750 Ilmor 710
LaveyCraft 10.8 Sebring tunnel 406

Rob,
I am not sure that dick uses the exact same process as others do. I can say with certainty that I have seen remarkably extra life wit this process.
Check out this old thread.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...s-results.html

oklaoutlaw we will be there also,we took the boat one year,ya can see better from the parking garage.Being they probably didn't clean up out side the channel after Katrina no telling what ya might hit,Remember 30ft came thru that area.


Uncle Dave thanks for the comp,I wish I was more literate to give more info,etc.It was fun though .:drink:Ill take a look at yours


Vinny P I haven't kept up with D!cks treatment.My experience its still a week link. NO matter what style bravo drive they come up with!!

JayFan when I bought my Hustler with 40 hours on it,I left it stock for 3 summers:rolleyes:For what a new one cost now:eek:I can spen money on mine keeping it perfect and still be ahead

Awsome job. I'm now going through my 500efi. I lost a head gasket in the rear cylinders. Is this where yours gave up? I'm going with the Dart alum heads. I've already been running 2300ax Whipple for years & until now, had zero complaints. Are you picking up water for the cooling and intercooler through the hull or do you seperate intercooler/cooling? I've noticed about 5lb lower water pressure than Whipple recommends, but I have always blamed the tiny hose to my gauge. I hope mine turns out half as well as yours. Should be gettin 800hp+ with the Darts, just before my XR grenades!

Linnie you guessed right:ernaehrung004:

Thanks, yea the Whipples are hard on the drives,mines at 860TQ,JC Perf did a build with the 2300, he was spinning it pretty hard.ported stock heads,I think it was around 800.We were playing with my motor on the Dyno at Precision Marine to see how much it could make on race gas 11.5lbs it had 957 peek TQ,yes it would prob not hold up in the boat at that tune up.Remember its just a 500efi:drink:

I"ve have not had any failures,"Yet:eek:" the head gasket shows some lifting at the 1-2 O'Clock position on 3-7-2-6.Even the stock head gaskets showed some on the first tear down.My Buddy at Fel-Pro said thats lifting,the week spot because of no bolt hole,the aftermarket blocks and heads have the extra bolt holes,so it doesn't lift in that area bad ,makes it equal on the wire, Jerry/Fel Pro even has a clamp load tester to ck to see if my head bolts were clamping the right amount, this last tear down he wanted me to add 5lbs to the TQ:(There saying its going into a little detonation and lifting the head showing the carbon tracking,he said it sets back down and seals back up,Not blown,see picks, the edge of the head gasket wire hasn't been showing any dents or etching, just the lifting.I send my head gaskets back to him every winter/tear down, he tells me whats going on and then sends me a new set,Its been like this from the beginning,I didn't tear down the motors winter of 07 just took them out and re polished every thing:cool:so the motor has 2 summers and 104 hours on the last rering.The end of 08 I was running it harder than Ive ever have,thats when it was picking up speed and I kept trying,back to back wfo,6000rpm.Same boost,Cold out side ,cold water, Oct booster no gas down hill etc,Until I got all I could, it picked up from 102.1 to 105.1.I tore it down after those runs,Oct end of season so if it blows ya don't miss any boating:rolleyes: ended up having a upper gear and a lower set fixing to come apart, it had broken the gimble pin, its had almost 1 inch of slack in the skeg from side to side, there was allot going on in those last passes:drink:I did a leak down its in another thread"puke tank oil"so we bead honed it ,rings and bearings, Ill post picks of the bearings theres was no weird wearing so not much flexing, no cap chatter,oil pumps looked good,a couple lite marks,cam and lifter surface showed the normal wear,the Comp 929's were down 5lbd, shimmed it back to 155lb, so next tear down ill put some better springs in it.We just relaped in the valves,seats looked good,no etching on the valves,cleaned up the head surface because the gaskets leave a hell of a mess on the surface.Gunned it back together,not

O yea I repolished everything,that makes it run better:rolleyes:

Now I'm waiting on my paint/fiberglass shop on the hull,he's had it since Dec ,he's got me by the balls:mad: but I have a big project going on, redoing the rest of the interior,engine compartment,painting transom,the factory didn't even gel over on the exhaust cut out holes:eek:repainting from the rub rail up, fixing all the little scratches, and reclearing all of it, I had them wet sand and BUFF the bottom,to close up all the pores?it had gotten to etched/staining and it had some air voids,I wanted the bottom to look like new,after the thought they finished the bottom Ive been under it twice putting tape on the spots thieve missed, they knew that I was anal,prob not this bad,but he's charging like Rip.Ive rebuilt the transom assembly's new HP upgrade kits,gimbles etc,Steering replacing all the bushings,plastic stuff in the rams,repolish em,Drives rebuild"ouch!"Trying to get a Teague water pick up to fit,basically making the old boat back new.

babbling some
Rob:ernaehrung004:

90mphRAGE pm me your #,its easier to talk than write:)


alittle sand and rust

some trash in the bearrings,rear main still had some coating on it.

The piston skirts have some scuffing,thieve been doing it.Pistons are 7 summers old,Prob needs new pistons or boring but the leak down is still good.Also look at the puke tank thread theres no oil in them,so not much blowby when running


On the intake I think the intake tray lip is making the intake gasket leek in to the lower crossover area/compartment,its not hurting anything except it leaks out making a mess on the bench,I glued it better this time and cut it to clear the pan lip,any other idea's ??

gimble upper pin was rusted,it looks like its not worn, it fits tight in the ring.just some corrosion.

Side pin was working on it:eek:

Good time to clean up the transom assembles, replace seals and bushings,upper pins,nuts and bolts,water hose,trim hoses,touch up corrosion spots.The steering arm is good and not used for steering

The HP kits come with ring,Helmet,side 4 bolt pins,ans Merc's rebuild kit, bellows,bearing etc


New spun coupler, I bought the A20's the rubber even looks different, ill take a pick

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/7...r211080ms2.jpg

Girl friend was hot about the dish washer:drink: works good though.

Pin and gimble,is it sellible?

oil pumps,sanded the flat plate with some 1000 on flat surface

Who wants to buy a bag of


sand,dirt and rust, this is out of both block, most of it was in the back of the block,I cleaned it out real good before it went to the hot tank,The black flakes are the black on the head gasket,what ever his the cardboard.2 summers,never bumped the bottom.it had some around the drain hole about 3/8 thick

Intake ,I call it blow thru,overlap, RMBuilder says low port velocity,then he got into explaining and he lost me:evilb:they do have a good bit more that the 500efi cam,there saying thats the reason I can run the boost? A custom cam would be more efficient and more power,that means more dynoing,mapping with new cam$$,I'm thinking Ive maxed out on the hull and drives anyway.The motors are reliable, the rest is not:rolleyes:


On tear down I didn't find anything loose,Heads had a little black oil residue,I change oil ever 25 hours, maybe need to do it sooner, we do a lot of idling and the motor is fat/safe so its prob fuel dilution,ya can smell it a Little on oil changes.

The best thing is no leaks at all,it sealed up good, theres not even any residue on the rear seal and front oil pan lip,oil lines,fittings,water stuff,power sterring or motor puke tank. just the out drive bottles are one the small side:(so I have to make a puke take for the drive, you can have a 1/2 inch in the bottom and run it hard it will push out into the puke tank,just part of a B Max,The plastic puke take cracked and leaked, Im trying to find something differant to puke in,Any sugestion would be good:drink:

puffer:rolleyes:

the head gasket return could be trimed,block in the front too