ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

Hello, I need some valued opinions. :D Long story short, I spun a bearing because I reversed the lines on my oil filter and oil cooler. (no oil temp gauge) :( By the time I found it, it was too late. I do not want to turn the crank again 454 MARK IV. What do I need to be on the look out for if I go to a STROKER crank 4.25? Can I use the same rods and pistons? Will the entire assembly need to be rebalanced or just the crankshaft? This is a very mild application now. There are some many different brands and prices so I need some opinions on what has worked and not worked.



JIM

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

If you add 1/4 inch of stroke you will have to buy pistons that have the pin height different or your pistons will be coming out of the bore and hitting the heads.The good thing is if you look at a j/e piston chart they show rod lenght,stroke etc. If you call comp products in wisconsin they have the cranks,rods,pistons etc in stock. They have prices as good as summit or jegs but you actually get to talk to a knowledable,mature tech person.1-920-233-2023 is there number,ask for roger hurst and tell him smitty from michigan told you to call,Smitty

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

I did not think of piston hitting the head :eek: Cranks I read about Scat, Eagle, ETC any with known problems?
JIM

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

Jim
Your not alone on that mistake. I did the same thing this summer and because of time constraints it cost me a short block. Good luck with your stroker motor build. You will get lots of good advise from these guys.

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

I just got my new Competition Products Catalog. Man there are some nice deals there!
I agree they are good to deal with.

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

if your lookin to make some real power run a forged crank. if you just want to stroke it for a little more grunt get a scat cast steel 5140 crank. p.a.w. sells a 496 srtoker kit all put together with everything you need. get it balanced and bore the block and your set. i always balance my pistons,rings and piston pins my self. shops usually only get parts within a gram of each other where as i balance everything to zero difference. good luck with it. stroke is torque and there is no substitute for cubic inches. :evilb: ratman

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

Sutphen 30
Very interesting point you have brought up. I just had my friends shop build a BRAND NEW long block 552(ten over 540) with the new high end callies crank, although i am not sure of the model and the engine was ruined in one hour of running. The crank. six Kryptonite rods were junk. One of the pushrods was also heated up at the rocker. The bearing shells just fell out once we opened it up. The other engibe was a fresh rebuild but was not damaged at all.
In fairness to the engine it had lugged around a while as we checked different props so maybe it havedetonated but no one knows for sure. It is only a 9:1 with aluminum heads so it should be detonating on 94 octane. I am rebuilding now and am worried about the crank now that you mention this. Can you offer any particulars as to where these oiling changes are made?
Thanks

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

A 4 1/4" stroke crank can be used with stock rods and pistons can be milled 1/8". Forged pistons are a must. I have a set of trw .030 that have been milled. I have all the parts and might build ? . Also I believe a set of eagle or other h-beam rods with cap screws can be used, I feel this may eliminate the need to go crazy clearancing the block. (stock rod nuts will hit and require alot of grinding on the block. ) Lab engine clearances the block in a milling machine. They also drill the oil holes bigger to send more oil to the mains. I am contemplating a stroker motor myself, but I think I wont be happy unless I just get a 572" or bigger motor. Why play around it's my time and money. BBB

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

I think the oil chages Stuphen30 is talking about are how they drill the mains for oiling. There is a ton of discussion in the industry about whether the mains should be point directional drilling( direction of rotation) or cross drilled. Seems to be a lot of opinions on this one. It has mostly to do with the rotaional period that the rod bearings receive oiling under pressure. The other change that hsa been made to the later blocks is a revised(moved) priority oiling passage on the block that feeds more oil first to the mains and does not let as much oil be used up by the cam and lifter components. I would think that when a block had this much bearing destruction and damage, it might have had lack of oil at good pressures, ,cold oil power loading, oil overheating, or improper bearing clearance as possible factors more than the type of main oiling system it had.
Just some thoughts,
Ray @ Raylar

Re: ADVISE on 454 STROKER CRANK
 

One thing to keep in mind. When you increase stroke,the crank and the rod's go deeper in the pan and will increase windage but more importantly oil will aereate the oil easier, which could have been tjthore's problem.I have seen this many times on the highest quality crank and rods. As it was put to me by a engineer at Oliver Rods "God couldn't build a rod withstand that". Choose oilpan wisely and always use the GM windage tray (flat plate that bolts to the mains) . This holds areated oil in suspension and deareate before pouring down to the pickup screen. You do not want the oil pump pick up to pick up aereated oil because the pump turns small bubbles in to a big air bubble that doesn't purge out til it hit the main bearing"not good".

I am partial to Callies and Oliver rods, because i am a WD for them, But have installed all the other brands mentioned here , with great success.