gimbal bearing - removal
 

Is there a trick to this? (bravo setup) my engine compartment in empty & I'm trying to pound it out from the inside - what the best way to accomplish this??

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

correct me if I'm wrong or do I have to disassemble further, or should the bearing clear the housing? If I pound from the inside?

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Yes, it will clear everything. If you are going to pound it out from the engine compartment you will ruin the seal so get one of them also. Give it a few whacks and It'll come out.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

That should be all you have to dis-assemble. I've never beat it out from the inside....., always used the tool to yank it from the outside. Should come be same principle though. If it hasn't been changed in a while it will be tough to get out. If you can find a piece of tubing to beat it with that is the same diameter of the bearing, that would be best. and make sure you have a straight line to beat it. if you are beating it crooked it will cock and not come out.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

I guess I'm not hitting it hard enough - I'll break out the sledge hammer :D

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Some come out easy some are very tight sledge is in order never removed one from the inside always used a 6 or 8 lb slide hammer to pull it out. Good luck

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

I have always used the merc alignment tool to knock it loose, works great. Just put the tool thru the hole in the bearing, wack it sideways, this will twist the bearing in the carrier and then it pulls out easily, by hand, never needed a puller. Could use any larger pipe or equivilent that will fit snug in the bearing hole.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Did you remove the snap ring? I can't tell from the pic.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

there's no snap ring in there

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

got her done - gave her a good whack & out it came - thanks for the help.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

My Gimbals are off my boat and I need to replace the bearing in one. I was trying to figure out how to hold it while using the slide hammer puller.
I didn't even think of just pushing out from the inside..........DOH!
That's why I surf this section.
DS

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Be sure to align the bearing correctly before you install it. There is a lubrication port in the gimbal ring. Should be around the 2:00 oclock position, looking in from the stern. The band around the outside of the bearing has a split in it about 1/4 inch wide. That split has to line up with the lube port in the bearing and in the gimbal ring. If it doesn't, you can't get grease into the bearing. Which, ultimately means that your new bearing wont last very long. One other thing, the bearing has a forward and a backwards, so to speak. the outer race has cutouts/notches cut in them. those notches must face forward. When installing the bearing, don't strike the inner race. That too, will shorten the life of the bearing, if not damage it right away.
I usually grease the bearing before I install the drive, so I can see if it is getting grease. If the grease starts to show near the inner race, it is in correct. If it shows around the outer race or not at all, it is in wrong. Good luck....... :D :D

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

the orinetation of the bearing doesnt actually matter unless you sre running an x-series drive. the inner race is shorter on one side and it is to accomdate the larger u-joint assembaly on the x sreies drives.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

[QUOTE= One other thing, the bearing has a forward and a backwards, so to speak. the outer race has cutouts/notches cut in them. those notches must face forward. [/QUOTE]

In industry these are called cartridge bearings because you can replace just the bearing part itself by rotating it 90* and pulling it out of the outer housing. That is as long as the notches are facing out. Merc installs them facing in which I never understood. That requires the slap hammer removal and sledge hammer install. When I replace them I always install with the notches facing out so I never have to replace the outer housing again. I have never had a problem with failure due to this. Am I missing something?

BT :cool:

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

[QUOTE=blue thunder]youre not missing anything I think I have been though :D

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

nope, not missing anything...you can buy that bearing from any bearing shop but i think the outer race is propietary..best i remember, merc gets 80.00 plus for the assy and you can get just the bearing aftermarket for 25.00..if you follow their directions and insert it w/ the notches inward, your forced to yank the whole thing and go back to merc!

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Same thing I do, turn it 90 then pull it out.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

Just as I always suspected.... :evilb:

BT

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

I thought it was a little longer one way than the other.

Is there still room for the bigger XR u-joint when you install it backward?
DS

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

All we sell is the center bearing only.In fact I believe my company is the reason Mercury puts them in backwards.Years ago we had Linkbelt selling us just the center only.Mercury put pressure on them and next thing you know Linkbelt cut us off.No we use SKF and we had them put a seal to help it last longer.Yes we do sell it for $24.95.I always put the bearing back in with the notches facing outward.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

SFK will not sell you 1 or 2.I had to purchase 10,000 and they were stamped with my part #.

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

I got my last ones from good griend and oso member Dock Holiday! his were made by AMI and part#UG207-22. i used a fafnir bearing b4 too. it does has a little different look as one side of the center is longer but i turned it in and it worked fine. part #G1106KRRB+COL. +col stands for collar, it comes in the box but i imagine you can order w/out it. Hope this helps!

Re: gimbal bearing - removal
 

If you have not put it back in here is a trick I used. I found a long piece of round stock that fit in the inner race and inside the spline located on the flywheel. I therefore had alignment with respect to the gimbel housing. I found a piece of black pipe longer than the protruding round centered within the spline. I then found a pipe bell reducer that would thread on to the black pipe and whose bell diameter was small enough to loosely fit inside the gimbel housing and face up with the outer race of the bearing. One whack with a small sledge and it was in and seated. I did face the bell on my lathe to properly meet the bearing. I still have the rig and will rent it to you for a case of beer. I know you have your engine out and you will need to have it in and aligned to make this work.