|
Originally Posted by dammmagnum
(Post 3431978)
With a Volvo setup mine come out fairly easy with a little tilting and turning., My back seat was fixed in place.
Thank you Jim |
On my 1968 the rear seat assembly is screwed and bolted in place and to remove is just a few minutes labor. The bulkhead behind is an arch on which battery switches and MSD boxes are mounted. The entire lower section is cut out allowing for easy access to water pumps, alternators, belts, etc.
I can't imagine accessing motor mounts from above! Mario L. |
Originally Posted by Jeppe
(Post 3431864)
Folding the back seat is cheating. :-)
I'm not big on working with plastics and rebuilding the rear sofa wont happen this season or the next but maybe some day. I'll remove the water pump after summer and try it again. Mark, it looks like you have a cross over without bypass, do you know yet what temperature you are running? Mine feels a bit to cold so I'm changing to a 160 degree stat. |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by scippy
(Post 3431322)
Wouldn't hinging the bench seat create a negative structural loss?.......I mean, the bench seat on my sport backs right to (what appears to be) an engine wall bulkhead.......is it not necessary?
|
Volvo vs TRS's
2 Attachment(s)
When we remove our engines we remove all necessary connections,pull the headers of of both engines and then remove the 1st one,the 2nd one is a breeze.When putting them back ...same process,install engines and hook up all connections,then put the headers and exhaust back.As you can see from the pictures attached we have very tight fits in both boats,with TRS's drives. Jeppe on your comment that the exhaust were the same hight as when it was built,remember if they replaced engines or drives the rear of the boat is heaver than it was when it was built.Bud
|
Originally Posted by mr vinyl
(Post 3432301)
When we remove our engines we remove all necessary connections,pull the headers of of both engines and then remove the 1st one,the 2nd one is a breeze.When putting them back ...same process,install engines and hook up all connections,then put the headers and exhaust back.As you can see from the pictures attached we have very tight fits in both boats,with TRS's drives. Jeppe on your comment that the exhaust were the same hight as when it was built,remember if they replaced engines or drives the rear of the boat is heaver than it was when it was built.Bud
|
Could the hull have some water in the wood core??? I would check it out seeing it sank one time.Bud
|
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Jeppe
(Post 3432587)
I've been thinking about that. Our Mag is quite low in the water and I always figured it is because of our 400+ engines. But the drives, transmission and engine blocks are all original. They should even be lighter thanks to the aluminum Powerflow exhaust. Was she this deep from the factory?
|
Exhaust
2 Attachment(s)
Mark take a good look,of the boat docked in the shed...those exhaust are at the water line.I rather have mine come out above the rub rail,or just below it. Bud
|
Originally Posted by h2oboater
(Post 3433050)
Looks OK to me.
The Sport in the shed looks like it sits about 2 inches higher in the water. could be wrong Thank you Jim |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:58 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.