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-   -   27 Sport deck template (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/magnum-marine/330566-27-sport-deck-template.html)

Mario L. 09-08-2015 10:02 AM

27 Sport deck template
 
friends,

Does some one have a template for the exact shape of the wood insert on the deck. My deck was filled in many years ago, I desire to remove the filler and reinstall the wood.

So I'd also like to know how deep the relief should be.

Thank you,
Mario

Kalaazar 09-09-2015 03:13 PM

Mario,
Unfortunately we cut up the deck insert template for SideWinder but I can tell you that the recess was 6mm deep and we used 9mm thick Teak strips with a 3mm Bull noise edge.
If it would help I could give you the principle dimension's of length, width. rads. etc or better still offset lines from the deck edge.
Kalaazar

Mario L. 09-09-2015 08:31 PM

I've got alot of filler to grind and or rout out . . . maybe I can find the original recess edge? Or can I assume it has an equal distance from the deck edge?

6mm is a great start, thank you Ian!

Mario

Kalaazar 09-10-2015 03:43 PM

No Mario don`t do that, the recess is not a constant.

At the weekend I will measure from the fore and aft centreline and provide you with some offsets with pictures.

Another thought is that the original deck had a recess primarily because it was the thing to do at the time and that the insert was made of plywood.
However as per my previous post I used 9mm solid Teak strips 6mm in + 3mm above.
If you look at the latest Chris Craft decks the solid Teak is on the surface of the deck so you could achieve the same look as my boat by bonding solid teak onto the deck and forget about digging out the recess if you wish.

Ian

Drake22.250 09-10-2015 08:18 PM

Damn I forgot to get you a template off mine. Next week I will get it for you, it's off the boat at a buddies pole barn where I work on mine in the winters. My apologies.

hotrod62 09-10-2015 08:40 PM


Originally Posted by Drake22.250 (Post 4353418)
Damn I forgot to get you a template off mine. Next week I will get it for you, it's off the boat at a buddies pole barn where I work on mine in the winters. My apologies.

Mario,

I had a message from you but couldn't view it, says my message box is full........ I made a full size MDF template for my deck, I spent a great deal of time sanding it perfectly straight to use it as a router buck to cut my 1/4" teak marine plywood insert. Not sure where you are located but it is yours if you want it. I could always pull a paper template off it and send it to you if you need.

Jeremy

mr vinyl 09-11-2015 10:43 AM

Personally, I would get the deck piece made, glue it down and the put a little round or bead to taper to the deck.It would be a little higher than the deck, but know one will be able to tell. Bud

Mario L. 09-11-2015 11:06 AM

Thank you to all for the tips and information. I need to remove the existing "filler" I suspect it is just bondo and is all cracked so it's long term life is marginal.
Right now I'm undecided on teak as per Ian's boat, or a mahogany veneered plywood, bonded in place and sealed. Long term maintenance makes me desire the teak, originality pushes me to the mahogany.
Likely price will determine.

Mario

mr vinyl 09-12-2015 04:43 PM

deck filler
 
I still would not remove it, never know what problems you will incur.

Mario L. 09-12-2015 09:09 PM


Originally Posted by mr vinyl (Post 4353979)
I still would not remove it, never know what problems you will incur.

What old boat doesn't have issues? This will be nothing compared to the $150k restorations my shop does regularly. It is what is, this is my last boat for life, it has to last me another 20 years!

murfman 09-13-2015 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by Mario L. (Post 4354025)
What old boat doesn't have issues? This will be nothing compared to the $150k restorations my shop does regularly. It is what is, this is my last boat for life, it has to last me another 20 years!


Better to know about (And properly fix) any problems now. Nothing is unrepairable, and its easier to do it correctly than twice.

h2oboater 09-13-2015 01:25 PM

Like I say if man built man can fix it...

Mario L. 09-13-2015 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by Drake22.250 (Post 4353418)
Damn I forgot to get you a template off mine. Next week I will get it for you, it's off the boat at a buddies pole barn where I work on mine in the winters. My apologies.

Drake,
Thank you, I missed your reply earlier. Presently I'm not in a hurry, this month has me too busy with other stuff and 1st two weeks of October are a vacation . .long overdue!!! After that it's full bore so I can ski this winter and NOT work on the boat!!
You can mail it to me here:
Mario Langsten
VSR1.com
3 Robinson Rd.
Bow, NH 03304

MDonziM 09-14-2015 08:08 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Mario,
Besides cracking in the insert area from filling, I would bet there are issues with the coring in the deck. Around fuel fills, vents and other hardware there is a high probability of water intrusion over the years. We cut out about 4-5 areas when redoing mine. I'll check to see if any of the pieces cut out have the insert edge for reference if it helps.
- Marshall

MDonziM 09-14-2015 08:15 AM

Also, if you are considering teak, look at "NuTeak" , its a thin laminate that I am told looks quite real but I have not seen it in person.

Mario L. 09-14-2015 09:10 AM

Marshal,

I very much recall your thread on Donzi.net, and the work you put into the Starfire. My deck has no stress cracking other than the areas where the past owner did "body work" before repainting 25 years ago. His work was automotive style with bondo to seal the front edge of the Vee windshield riser, and he filled in the recessed area. As the boat was always covered nothing ever got wet. (till this past week, read below) I've drilled the deck in numerous places to install the center lifeline, and replaced the horn and perko scoops and fuel tank fill caps and all is dry.

I didn't work on the boat all summer, just left it outside with only a cockpit cover. BIG MISTAKE! This did allow the sun to bake my deck and I can now clearly see the outline of the insert. This wasn't clearly visible at the beginning of summer. The entire relief area is now cracked like the lakes in CA. It only rained a few days during this time, but one storm was a deluge, and water did run in thru the open holes from the scoops. Most of this ran into the cabin space. Some pooled in the compartments outboard of the fuel tanks, but with my lowered cockpit floor the drains for these are now sealed. Water over flowed into foam from the fuel tanks . . . cuss words word for miles!
Time to pull the tanks . . all this was dry after all these years and my own stupidity caused this additional work. My tanks are aluminum and are clean inside, but if that water freezes damage will happen. ARRGHH I'm frustrated .

Mario

MDonziM 09-29-2015 07:50 PM

Ugh Mario, sorry to hear about having to remove your tanks. I will be doing similar work this winter to replace my reserve tank which is original and began leaking. Located in between 2 bulkheads 30" apart it will be a real fight.

Perhaps your 68' has a different layup of the deck, mine has balsa coring on the outer non insert area and a very thin plywood layer in the insert.

- M

Mario L. 09-29-2015 09:00 PM


Originally Posted by MDonziM (Post 4360440)
Ugh Mario, sorry to hear about having to remove your tanks. I will be doing similar work this winter to replace my reserve tank which is original and began leaking. Located in between 2 bulkheads 30" apart it will be a real fight.

Perhaps your 68' has a different layup of the deck, mine has balsa coring on the outer non insert area and a very thin plywood layer in the insert.

- M

from inside the boat I can see the plywood below the outer deck insert. There is balsa core where the vents and fuel fills are and at the bow where I relocated my bow light to. Fortunately I haven't found any signs of moisture anywhere in this boat. . . YET!

Off to Italy for 2 weeks and then back at this! Done by Xmas!!!

Mario


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