Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

YUP.....Lonnie had changed the X on the 525/ITS boat per our request to achieve better results. It seems that helped the performance and out of hole numbers as well.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

I have been following your discussions on the 'X' dimension and drive spacer issue with great interest as to its effect on top end.

I am having trouble understanding why reducing the 'X' dimension by itself should improve top end other than the lower unit will simultaneously move deeper below the water running surface as the 'X' dimension is reduced for a given hull. Adding a drive spacer provides the same identical result of moving the lower unit deeper below the water running surface. Is this only to reduce % slip at WOT with high trim angle that usually results in increased prop surfacing by forcing the prop to run deeper? And/or to improve prop bite for better bow lift? Am I on track or is there something else in play here?

Why would reducing the 'X' dimension improve hole shot?

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage,
The concept of a high X dimension comes from race boats, both inboard and outboard. The biggest single source of high speed drag on all boats is their gearcase. Stick your finger in the water at 50 mph and you'll see what I mean. Water is an incompressible fluid. Raising the gearcase does several very positive things.
The biggest is decreased drag. The second is semi-surfacing the propeller. Air is compressible, and turning a propeller in this air/water environment generally allows you to run more pitch with the same amount of horsepower. The other thing that you won't hear much about, but is generally true (there are many variables of hull/drive/propellers) is that high X dimensions reduce high speed chinewalk.
Another general rule is that the higher the horsepower to weight ratio of a given boat, the higher you can go on the X dimension.
This race/high perf concept holds true on most performance hulls too. The biggest variables with "pleasure boats" though is the hp/weight ratio (I think you can buy a Rage with a small block to a 525) and load variation ( 1 to 5 people). You've probably noticed your boat is faster with a light load, because that increases your HP to weight ratio, for instance. I'm sure you have read many of us comment that our boats vary quite a bit in perfomance, depending on total weight load, weather, and water conditions.
Race boats generally have a much smaller variation in weight loads. Even then, they are generally faster later in the race as they burn off their fuel loads. Gas weighs 6 lbs. per gallon, so 250 gallons X 6 = 1500lbs.
Conversely, if you go too high on the XD for a given hull/engine/drive/ propeller combination, you will lose holeshot and top end. This is because a shallow running propeller doesn't have the mechanical leverage to lift the hull as well. This can be addressed 4 ways that I am aware of:
Increased propeller blade area (going from 4 to 5), rake, and cupping; increased setback (Merc ITS or Stellings box); drive spacers to lower the prop; gearcase design (going from a stock Bravo to an Imco or Sportmaster, etc., or adding a nosecone) to load the prop better.
So, adapting race boat technology to high performance boats does work, it just takes more tweaking to get the perfect setup.
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Did Lonnie increase or decrease your 'X' dimension?

Did the change increase your top end @WOT as well as faster hole shot?

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Steve,
What you describe is what I am familiar with. What I am confused about is that in some of the earlier posts in this thread it comments indicate that DECREASED 'X' factor increase top end speed at WOT and well as hole shot. The latter I can comprehend. The former is puzzling and what I am trying to bore down on and understand. A decreased 'X' factor would push the gear case deeper in the water for more drag as you say. A deeper gear case could improve prop bite for better bow lift if the current position is too shallow?

What do you think?

Regards!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage:
It's simply a matter of "locking up the propeller". You can do that by "burying" it (lowering the XD). That will work. The prop then can lift the hull at high speed because it has more mechanical leverage, being deeper in the water. Keep in mind this ALWAYS changes, depending on weight placement and total weight (fuel/passengers/gear). Lower will generally give you better all round performance, but you may give up a few mph with a light load.
The easy way to tell if you boat has enough lift is to have someone watch or video your boat at high speed who is capable of evaluating it's "set".
Rather than burying the gearcase, I would try propwork.
I would speak with Julie at Throttle Up. I have a feeling you will be VERY impressed with what she and Matt can do with your Bravo props. You may have also read where BobL, Dave and I have commented positively on the Hydromotive P5-X.
That design works perfectly on high XD step hulls. It works great on the Heat, and I bet it will do the same on the Rage.
I would definitely demo one.
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Thanks Steve!

I am fine with the general all around performance of my set up. What I am after is improved top end/reduced %slip at WOT. If a reduced 'X' factor gets me more top end because of more bow lift and /or less slip then thats what I want to do. If conversely it gives me more bow lift but slower top end for whatever reason then no. Same with the Hydromotive P5-X you mention. A demo seems in order.

I actually made contact with Julie on another thread also pursuing info on the drive spacer approach.

I would still like to hear from a late model Rage owner that has tried a drive spacer on a 496HO.

Regards!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage:
Keep in mind that all this begins and ends with the propeller. There is more performance to be lost or found here than on any other component on our boats.
Propellers are our version of tires on race cars. The best chassis/engine combo won't work unless it can transmit it's forces to the pavement.
It has always been my theory to build the "propeller to the boat", not build the boat to the propeller(s).
Propeller technology continues to evolve, just as hull, engine, and drive technologies do. In some cases, propeller technology is catching up to drive and hull technology. Again, I would let Matt and Julie work their magic on your prop(s) before resorting to a lower XD. The other alternative, though expensive, is also preferable in trying/building a 5 blade. What the 5 blade does is add enough blade area, with that extra blade, to carry your hull, even with an elevated XD.
An elevated XD, isn't a bad thing. It's a response by the factory to advancing drive and propeller technology. Also keep in mind that some of this is compromise.........sometimes mods that deliver extra top end, give up some bottom end, and vice versa.
My best friend has a 29' Fountain with the same motor (575SCi) I have. Since I've done my recent round of mods, I can blister him out of the hole, and at pretty much any on plane punch, but he still has 2 or 3 MPH on me top end. His boat slips and cavitates coming on plane (like mine used to).
His boat won't plane off without using tabs. Mine will. They are both great boats, but I've fixed my bottom end and acelleration issues and he hasn't. He doesn't care because he has great top end, and these aren't drag boats. My point is it's hard to have everything, even though we all want it.
Good luck with your Rage and keeps us posted on your progress.
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Sorry Paul...I went through all my back issues and didn't find the one article I really wanted to save LOL!! I sent a note to PRA asking for the issue that it was in and I'll let you know after they respond.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Thanks Steve!

I clearly understand and agree with what you are saying. I guess along with trying to pick everyones brains in general I guess I am mostly trying to rattle the bushes to find out if the Rage has an 'X' dimension issue and if so what works to fix it. I obviously have heard that the Heat does but so far no one has said anything about the Rage so maybe it does not. It DOES have more slip than I think it should so your comments about high slip with the Heat caught my attention and got me rolling.

The Rage works very good at low end and with an especially pleasing punch at mid range. Top end in the 68 - 71 mph range is very sensitive to load and loading and water conditions. I can run 65 mph all day pretty much regardless of loading. What nags me is a Power Boat Mag test of my identical boat in 2002 on Havasu and recorded 75.6 mph radar (the GPS said 77+mph at 5000 rpm) with a lab finished 26P Bravo 1). That is 82.1 mph theoretical for a 7.9% slip. I'm getting about 15% slip with my 27P Bravo 1 lab finished by the same prop shop that did the 26P lab for the Power Boat test. The stock Bravo 1 26P that came with the boat had ~17% slip. Additionally the Mercury boat speed/slip calculation Web site ball parks the lowest nominal slip numbers at 10-12% for a "heavy" V bottom and 8-9% for a "fast" V bottom boats.

I guess you see why I am on a mission to figure out what is wrong.

Thanks always for the help!

I will talk with Matt and Julie.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

OK cool ...thanks Steve.
Let me know if you hear back from them.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Thanks for the insight on the Heat. We were talking about that last night and what to do to get one to run 80mph.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Dave, that thread is absolutly excellent!! Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Steve,

Attached PDF file explains my problem better than words. It seems to me something is wrong with my 2005
Nordic Rage setup particularly versus that of two other Nordic Rage boats, 2001 and 2003, with the same 496HO and Bravo1 drive. They both run 75+mph at~5000 rpm with a 26P Bravo (the 2001 is labbed the 2003 is unknown) and I run 68mph at 5000 rpm with the stock 26P Bravo under the best of water conditions. The difference is my rig displays 3 times the prop slip at WOT i.e. 14% versus 3%-4% slip. When one of these other boats runs a stock 32P Bravo ("with some nicks on the leading edge") after adding a supercharger the slip goes up to 11% but at the same time my rig with a 28P Bravo (labbed) jumps up to 20% slip.

I also took a look at the before and after boat test data on a super charger manufacturer's web site. Out of 42 boat tests with everything from 24 to 42 foot performance boats with 21P to 30P props only nine tests were more than 10% slip. Only one 38 foot and one 40 foot boat test recorded slip at 20% or greater (21%). I assumed that the prop pitch posted was in fact the actual pitch of the prop.

I am in a rare club!

If you have any suggestions how I can get to the WOT performance level displayed by the two other Nordic Rage boats let me know!

If you are aware of any additional detailed boat test data on WOT performance and prop slip I am also definitely interested in that as well!

Thanks for all the help !!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Hey Rage,
Sounds like your stressing a bit :(
I'm not sure how you derived your slip numbers but just using the stated prop pitch and in reading order I get 8.5%, 7%, 20% and 28%.
The 8.5 and 7 percent numbers are really like cat numbers especially when considering that Bravo props are actually ~1" smaller than advertised. But tachs can be and often are off.
It's possible you may be off substantially with your tach and in turn you may have an engine issue. Can you have someone hook a scan tool to it?
When my buddy's runs ~74 GPS at sea level, it's on or near the rev limiter 5150 with a 26 which is about 14% (10% when using true pitch)
When running the 24 here at 5000 feet he sees ~68 GPS on or near the rev limiter with a 24 which is 14.7% slip (10% when using true pitch)
A true 10 percent slip number on a V hull is considered very good and generally speaking the Rage hull is very good in that department.
Dave

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Hey guys I'm using the prop slip calculator on the go-fast.com site to get my slip numbers. Aren't the formula's the same? I know that the tach can vary a little so I plug in 5050 rpm into the table. I knew I was at or over 5000 rpms because of the warning buzzer.

Rage, what are you using for your speed readings? Do you have a gps speedo or handheld unit? My factory speedo, a Gaffrig II at the time was erratic/malfuntioning/leaking after 10 hours. They sent me a new one and all was good.

Just a thought !

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Yeah, what Dave said ;) : ................................
Your 1st 2 slip #s sound impossibly low, and the next 2 sound incredibly high. Then you have the lack of consistency between the props. If they are both B1s, even of differing pitches (and consequently RPMs), their slip #s should be more consistent. I would definitely get a shop tach, Merc or Rinda scan tool on your motor to see if any codes are showing up, or if your tach is off.
What altitude are you running at? Your location isn't indicated on your avatar.
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Dave,

Thanks for your and the others feed back and information. I truely appreciate it! I am a rookie and want to understand what is actually going on to get a handle on whether my Rage is correctly set up or not.

The 2001 and 2003 Nordic Rage tests that I used for comparison are both from Power Boat Mag tests during those years. Their speed numbers are from radar /GPS. I have to assume that they got the rpms correct and correctly reported the prop used. I did use the true prop pitch for the Bravo1 props in the slip calc i.e. 25 true pitch for the "26P Bravo1", 27 true pitch for the "28P Bravo1" and 31 true pitch for the "32P Bravo1". Julie clued me into that aspect of the Bravo1 props a couple of weeks ago. Part of my learning curve.

I have my Rage at a Mercruiser shop now to have the tach calibrated. That may well may be the answer. However if my tach is accurate then I am running 14% slip with a stock 26P Bravo1 and 20% with a labbed 28P Bravo1. Would that sound reasonable to you? My data is from several tests under good to ideal water and atmospheric conditions 3" to 6" chop, 60F temperature, 60% relative humidity, 5-10mph wind, at 916 elevation in fresh water. The loading was two people ~ in the console seats and full gas (56 gal / 330 pounds) with the 3700 pound dry weight Rage which is the same as the Power Boat Mag tests. I even obtained the labbed 28P Bravo1 from the same prop shop that made the labbed 26P Bravo1 for the 2001 Nordic Power Boat Mag test.

My mph numbers are from a laptop gps unit that I confirmed as accurate with radar so I feel confident there.

I am also asking the Mercruiser shop to check for any fault codes as well. Is there anything else I should ask them to check out? They do not have an engine dyno. Would the Mercruiser diagnostic software be able to give me anything useful to help sort this out?

The fact is that two totally different Power Boat Mag tests conducted two years apart on two different bodies of water and two different Nordic Rages both with 496HO and Bravo1 drives, one an open bow like mine, gave 75.6mph at 5000 rpms WOT and 75.9 mph at 4950 rpms WOT. This would seem to be a relatively solid bench mark for that configuration. Am I missing some thing?

If I was running 74mph GPS with my Rage at 5150 rpms I would be very happy. With Just my self and 50% gas in perfect conditions, 12" chop I once saw 69 mph at 5000 rpms with the labbed 28P Bravo1 (18% slip).

I guess that is why I am stressing a bit. Sorry to ramble on!

Any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Steve,

Thanks for the input. I answered your questions in my response to Dave. Let me know what you think.

Attached is the web site data on the 42 boat tests I mentioned.

It is interesting but does not have suffficient detail to hang your hat on. But still interesting.

Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

ComfortablyNumb,

Thanks for you suggestions. I answered your questions in my reponse to Dave. Let me know what you think.

Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Guys, I just talked to the Mercruiser mechanic. They checked out my Nordic Saturday both in the garage and on the water. The tachometer is dead on 1000-5000 rpm and no fault codes!

Any ideas on a next step?

Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Hi Rage,

I too am somewhat of a rookie. I moved from a 20' Ebbtide to the 25' Rage. I read the tests in the magazines also. I realize that I wouldn't be able to duplicate their reported speeds, especially at 5000'. I don't have a digital tach. I can probably only guestimate my rpm's within 200. Between the markings on the guage and trying to drive faster in a boat than I ever have before I can only be approximate on the engine speed and plug that into the slip formula. I'm sure on any given day the existing conditions can affect your top speed by a couple of mph or more. I read about true pitch being 1" less than advertised but I've never heard that before and then you take a look at the mercury website and their calculations also try to take into account for "cup". Then again I'll bet that the percentage of slip changes the faster you that go. Whatever . . . . . . . ., I guess it comes down to satisfaction. When I was deciding to buy the Rage I ran the numbers based upon the magazine tests. I then factored in my gear ratio, (1.65) and pitch (24") and came up with a speed in the low 60's. With my wife reading a garmin hand held gps we were running 65 mph plus or minus a couple of tenths. We've repeated that on more than on occasion in good conditions.In average conditions I was able to run it up to about 63 mph. So I've met my expectations that I established when I purchased the boat. This also indicated to me that the slip calculations based upon the magazine tests where reasonable. The Rage is a light boat with a good bottom. To me it would seem that the low 70's would be a reasonable expectation for you. 74 on a good day maybe 72 or 73 on average days. Anyhow, thats what I think :drink:

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage:
Regarding the difference in the slip %s of your props. Most "lab" modifications include some combination of thinning, sharpening, balancing, cup reduction, and occasionally blade area reduction. All this is done in an attempt to get more RPMs, because speed generally does come with additional RPMs. My Merc lab 30" had virtually no cup and the worst slippage #s I've ever seen. I had a local guy here (Performance Propeller) add some cup to this prop and we got the slip #s down to around 17%. Still not very efficient, and attempting to carry a load in the boat made it worse.
I was able to correct a lot of this by going to the P5-X and an Imco gearcase. I consequently sold all my B-1s.
Realizing I didn't have a spare, I recently bought a stock 30" B-1, and I was really surprised to see how much cup is in these propellers when they are stock. I haven't run it, but I suspect the slip #s will be MUCH lower than the lab version. It may not be all that fast either, because the blades are thick, the leading edge is relatively dull, and these props do have blade to blade imbalances, as cast. If it tests anywhere near passable stock from a performance standpoint, I'll have Matt blueprint it, but this time we'll leave the cup in it to compensate for the high XD on my boat. Who knows, we may get a B-1 prop to work on my boat yet.
To make a long story short, I think you'll find your stock 26" B-1 has a lot more cup than the lab 28", and that is why the 28" has such a high slip%. This can be corrected by taking it to a knowledgable propeller service and gradually having cup added back to the propeller, until your slip #s come down.
The objective is to get your slip #s down, without killing your RPMs. It can be done.
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage... My experience has shown most Rages will have around 11-12% actual slip. Any slip less than that should raise a flag as to the validity of the data. As I said before don't base your boats performance on magazine tests. They are quite often BS. The slip numbers you posted even prove the speeds are not correct. What we are offering you on this board is real world information. So, from what all others have said and what I've personally experienced a 25 Rage with 496HO will run a best of 73-75 GPS at sea level under good conditions. In most normal boating conditions you'll run several MPH less than that, maybe not even breaking 70. No one has asked the question, but how are you trimming your boat? The Rage likes a lot of positive trim. I would expect a little more than 68 out of your boat, but no where near what you are expecting. I know of several Rage's running over 600 HP that run low 80's.

Bob

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Steve,

Well this is another jump along my learning curve. Thanks for taking the time to explain all the changes that are included in a labbed prop and why. I knew about most of them but definitely not the reduction in cup and the reason why. In fairness to the prop shop that labbed my 28P Bravo1, when I shared my slip results they said to send it back and they would add some cup to reduce the slip. It now obviously makes sense and I will definitely do this.

Actually my focus has been what seems to me to be a GENERALLY higher slip with my Rage than other Rages with the same equipment including prop and test conditions. What do think is the reason why in the 2001 Power Boat Mag test of the essentially identical Nordic Rage to mine with a labbed 26P Bravo1 which should have more slip than a stock 26P Bravo1 had ~3% slip and my stock 26P Bravo1 has 14% slip at the same 5000 rpms @WOT? Also at 4500 rpms the 2001 test had 8% and mine 11%.

Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Bob,

Thanks again for your real world input. At WOT I trim out until I start to drop in mph then reduce and increase trim in small increments looking for max mph. This usually works out to ~3/4+/- trim out. With the labbed 28P Bravo1 I am around 5000 rpm with light load so I do not have an issue with the rev limiter. It takes a while for the boat to achieve its max mph for the conditions.

The 73-75mph GPS max under best conditions for the Rage at sea level you mention, is that at the lightest load, say one person and low gas? Do you recall the prop, pitch and if labbed or not that gave this max top end at sea level?

Thanks!

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Rage,
There are labs, and labs. Actually, Mercury has an "off the shelf" lab job that is, in most cases, substantially faster than the same pitch stock propeller. That's what was on my boat when I bought it. The former owner was dissapointed with all the money he'd spent, because the off the shelf lab job wasn't anywhere correct for his/my boat. As soon as I looked as the prop, I told him that's what Mercury normally does if you just order a stock lab job, and that the prop needed additional modifications, certainly cup. I thought some cup would fix all my problems, man was I wrong. It did help.
Correctly "labbing" a prop involves taking accurate speed, RPM, temperature, altitude, humididty, load, and water condition measurements, and passing that data along to someone who is hopefully familiar with the boat your working on, because they ALL have quirks. Matt and Julie have an excellent form they want filled out before they start grinding, for instance.
That attention to detail, along with a databse of propeller styles, brands, blade #s, etc. will normally yield the best results. To be fair to Mercury, I'm sure they could have done a better job of tuning my old B-1, had the former owner or I taken the time to work with them further on it. Many prop shops, like yours, will usually include one or two modifications on their original lab jobs, because this isn't an exact science.
My point is, that a correctly labbed propeller should actually slip less than a stock propeller, AND be faster too.
If you are a manufacturer sending one your boats to a magazine for their evaluation, you aren't going to send a slug.
Even then, many manufacturers are going to get "optimistic" reviews, particularly those with big advertising budgets :rolleyes: .....................so don't be surprised that your boat doesn't run like the ones in Powerboat or Hor Boat.
Check out the article in the Oct. 2005 Hot Boat on the Heat mid cabin. The reviewers were very positive regarding build quality and styling, as they should be. These are great boats.
This boat was powered with the new 625HP V-10 Viper motor. Certainly, no slug.
Nordic says the boat will run 86MPH "under ideal conditions".
I don't know what "ideal conditions" mean to Nordic, probably running on fumes with a skilled driver in ideal conditions.
How fast did the test boat run? 76.6. That is right in line with what 600HP in a Heat runs. Mine ran 76 with a stock 575. I've seen 86 ONE time with all the work I've done, and certainly can't replicate that # 99% of the time. Load a boat up with coolers, people, and gas, there goes those "magic #s". So I think you see how those "test" results can be favorably skewed and hard to replicate.
"there are lies, damn lies, and statistics"
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Steve (and Bob),

OK you convinced me. I can let the Power Boat Mag test results on the Rages go.

Absorbing what you and others have said about props/pitch slip/labbed/etc. let me run this by you. It seems as though the sweet spot for the Rage with a 425hp 496HO is generally a 26P Bravo1. Also, as you say, the boat mfg's will submit an optimized set up for a boat test in addition to the favorable bias that they will likely receive in the published analysis. Both the 2001 and the 2003 tests were with a 26P Bravo1. The 2001 test prop was labbed by a local Lake Havasu prop shop. The purpose of the 2003 test was a comparison between stock and supercharged set up in the 496HO Rage and the prop was only identified as 26P Bravo1 so it may have been stock or modified. The 2003 test boat was allegedly off the lot of Semper Marine in AZ which would imply a stock prop but who knows.

Based on my 68mph @5000 rpms at WOT and 14% slip with the stock 26P Bravo1 the prop shop said that I should go with a labbed 28P Bravo1 if I wanted better top end. Maybe that was the wrong direction. Maybe I should be working with dialing in a labbed 26P Bravo1 instead of a labbed 28P Bravo1. What do you think are the chances that this is a better road?

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

[QUOTE=Rage]Steve (and Bob),

OK you convinced me. I can let the Power Boat Mag test results on the Rages go.

Absorbing what you and others have said about props/pitch slip/labbed/etc. let me run this by you. It seems as though the sweet spot for the Rage with a 425hp 496HO is generally a 26P Bravo1. Also, as you say, the boat mfg's will submit an optimized set up for a boat test in addition to the favorable bias that they will likely receive in the published analysis. Both the 2001 and the 2003 tests were with a 26P Bravo1. The 2001 test prop was labbed by a local Lake Havasu prop shop. The purpose of the 2003 test was a comparison between stock and supercharged set up in the 496HO Rage and the prop was only identified as 26P Bravo1 so it may have been stock or modified. The 2003 test boat was allegedly off the lot of Semper Marine in AZ which would imply a stock prop but who knows.

Based on my 68mph @5000 rpms at WOT and 14% slip with the stock 26P Bravo1 the prop shop said that I should go with a labbed 28P Bravo1 if I wanted better top end. Maybe that was the wrong direction. Maybe I should be working with dialing in a labbed 26P Bravo1 instead of a labbed 28P Bravo1. What do you think are the chances that this is a better road?[/QUOTE
Rage:
Work with Matt and Julie here. They are the experts. I have purchased propellers from many different manufacturers, OEM and aftermarket, and used several different propeller services.
It always seems to me that there are 1 or 2 guys that have the hot setup for a given hull and engine, or racing class.
I used to race outboards and can tell you exactly where to go to get whatever you need (acelleration/top end/etc.) for a racing or HP outboard. My experience with offshore type I/Os is much more limited. I have only owned 2 of them. I just went to the people who were recommended to me here on this board (by BOBL and Dave), and mentioned favorably by some race teams, Throttle Up. They seem to be the go to guys for these boats.
I am impressed with their knowledge, products, and results. I am sure there are plenty of other good "prop grinders" out there for these boats, maybe some in your area.
I'm sticking with Throttle Up. The Heat is one of the harder I/O boats to set up properly IMHO, and they made it work.
Regards,
Steve

Re: Mhale00 & Raylar Kit
 

Thanks Steve, always appreciated!