It's the same door that came with the boat. I had it covered, filed down the edges for an easier slide and put a new handle on it.

Thanks Larry, just picking up where you left off!!

what are you going to do about the hatch clearnace?

If we turn the oval flame arrestors sideways (almost right against transom), we only need about 3.5 inches more of clearence. So, the plan is to use these scoops I found online, facing backwards, instead of raising the hatch (all kinds of extra work with that). It will only eat up a very small portion of the sunpad and since they're carbon fiber, they should go with the theme you started in the cockpit as well as the sunpad. If not, I would just get them painted.

Very nice, I like those!

Progress! After deciding to go with #6 prop shafts in the SCX's, we had to raise the drives as much as possible, so I sold the Imco boxes and bought new Stellings adjustable boxes that allow us to come up 2". That plus 2" shorties should get us where we need to be. However, the Stellings boxes required us to move the motors forward. Below is a link to Eddie's progress on that posted in GD.


http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...re-inches.html

Interior looks great , keep the pics coming .

Time for a little updating. After much back and forth about the exact direction of the project, we have finally decided on the route to take. So, we are now making some really good head way on the boat. We started with removing most everything from the engine compartment. That included the entire fuel system, gimbles, motor mounts, water plumbing, etc. The fuel system was no where near large enough for the power, there were no strainers, some questionable wiring,etc. In addition to all of these items, we've also added extension boxes and IMCO SCX drives.

We raised the Stellings boxes 2", which caused a steep driveshaft angle. In order to fix it, we had the choice of moving the engine up, or forward. Since up wasn't an option, we went forward. I cut the bell housing mounting ears off of an IMCO inner transom plate. I extended the ears by 5", which moved the engine 5" forward.
Here are a few pics.
Eddie

Here are a few pics of some rigging no-no's.
Eddie

We also cleaned up some of the rigging on the transom. We still need to clean the bilge, but here are some before and after cleaning up the wiring, etc.

Here are some pics of the flushing attachment that we build. It has one hose hookup that run to each of the strainers. You just turn on the valve to the engine that you want to run without having to move the hose from side to side.
Eddie

Here are a few pics of the strainers, fuel pumps, filter heads, etc.
Eddie

The one thing that needed to be done to the engines was to increase the number of bolts that drive the blower pulley from 3 to 6. The accessory pulley mounted to the balancer with only 3 bolts. The blower pulley than attached to the accessory pulley with 6 bolts. However, the 3 bolts in the accessory pulley were driving everything. So, I drilled and tapped the balancer and drilled and counterbored the accessory pulley.

The circled holes are the ones that we drilled and counterbored.
Eddie

Here are some shots of the transom.
Eddie

Looks great Eddie .

Progress!!! So Eddie, is it time to put those orange things in the bilge yet?

Getting close.
Patience my friend!!!

Good idea. Nice work!

Cool project.

great job! that's going to be a good looking beast

Thank you. It really works great. It is so nice to be able to hook up the hose only one time and be able to run both engines, turn the water on or off whenever you want, etc. It's pretty easy to make. We drilled in it the mill, but you could easily make it with a drill press. I don't think you could do it with a handheld drill since it would be really tough to keep the holes straight. Just drill and tap the holes, drill mounting holes, and load it up with fittings and ball valves. The nipples and valves are SS, but the hose hookup is brass. You could use brass ball valves if you wish, but the SS is forever.

Thanks everyone else for the kind words. I'll post more pics as it progresses.
Eddie

where did you pipe the access to the ball vales? that's great idea and one I'd think a few manufactures should take note of! you do some awful nice custom work for an engine builder:party-smiley-004::lolhit:

Thank you. That's cause we do more than just build engines:lolhit: I really enjoy the rigging side of it. It's a nice change of pace from the engines. We usually do a complete re-rig on at least one boat per year, along with rigging changes in other boats that need to be done when we install an engine.

The hoses from the ball valves goes straight to the sea strainers. Each hose goes to its respective strainer.
Eddie

Thats is a great idea for those who run a lot in salt. Nice job!

Wow, looks like quite a project. Looking good, keep us updated.

i see the hoses going to the strainers (which I don't have on my 32) guess I should have said supply fitting access...is that under the rear bench seat...quick coupler or just a female swivel hose fitting?

Rich,
It is indeed a big project, and more than I expected. But, as you told me before I started, every time we get one thing looking good, it makes something else look old. Once I knew last summer was pretty much a loss, I started updating and replacing stuff, that in the beginning, I didn't plan to do.

The pics are a bit deceiving in that it looks like we are not even close to having the boat on the water, but we're actually really close. We're changing the trim cables on both the tabs & drives, going to a 4 battery system and adding bling to the bilge. All of this needs to be done before engines go in. Dropping them in may actually be the easiest part......

The supply is mounted on the forward bulkhead in the engine compartment. It just has a garden hose hookup on it. If you don't have strainers, then you could just put it in line between the gimble and the sea pump. CP Performance has a fitting made specifically for that. There is also no reason that you couldn't use a quick connect to make hookups a little easier.

I guess you could really mount the flushing block anywhere you wanted. I suppose you could mount it under the seat if you choose. Where ever you have room to put it will work.
Eddie

Finally made it to the water!!!!!!!!!!!! Lake Cumberland Thunder Run.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]503402[/ATTACH]

how did it run? lets see some pics.

Details ??????????????

I'll get some updated pics posted when I have some time. The boat ran 96 mph the second time out with Eddie driving. We started with some borrowed props and they're not right for the boat, so I suspect we will be over triple digits without a problem. I ran it to about 90 mph on Saturday before experiencing some issues that need to be addressed before we run it with different props. I'll update again once we try some different props.

Glad to here its working out .

Are you running the #6 props on the scx drives. What props are you currently running.

Yes, # 6's, we started with 5 blade 35's. Because my SCX's are not the -4's and not truly surfacing, we are going to try 4 blade props next.

Congrats on getting it all together!!! Any new updates???

Thomas. Clear ur box. Tried sending a pm

I know it's apples and oranges since my 37 is a staggered #6 boat with high drives, but I can tell you with similar power my boat liked the 17.5x35p 5 blades the best. Unfortunately they were not my props. I have run 17.5x34 and 17.5x35 four blades as well, the 5 blade props get on plane much easier and have better cruising speed. This might be different with your 37 do to the configuration and since your drives are likely lower. If you are detuning the engines a little, I would suggest looking for a something like a 17" - 17.5" x 33p - 34p five blades. 35p will be too much pitch unless you intend to run those at the full 1050 hp.

Keep us posted on how things are going!!!!!



BTW, I am likely going to be selling my 37 soon if anyone is interested. It can be sold basically turn key or without power too. :)

I guess membership expired because I can usually get 50 messages. I'll clear or re-up.

From the way the 35's did with the boat at 950 HP, I would say you're pretty much spot on with your suggestions. We may be able to get away with 4 blades because the drives are not surfacing like a #6 boat. Right now I'm dealing with engine issues, so it may be a while before it sees H2O again........