Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Tomas get rid of the receiver groove gasket, Fel-pro # 1012 and mill your heads to clean surface. Check the CC on the head and order a Cometic head gasket with the proper clearance to your CC`s. Cometic can make the thickness up-to .76 inch thick. A solid roller cam will light up your engine.....

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Thanks Albert, do you recommend any perticular cam in this case?
If possible, I'm looking for 750-800HP and a descent fuel consumption.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

WIll boost referencing the carbs do anything for the HP and/or fuel consumption? Will it make any difference or is it neglectable?!

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Tomas, you want a cam that has around 672 lift with a 240/250 duration and a 112 lobe seperation. That will give you plenty of midrange accelleration and torqe. Remember, you want a solid roller cam to achieve all your goals.

Albert

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Only in a Dyno any change to carbs and jetting can be done correct, just by checking your spark plug out in the water wont cut it.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Yes I will of course dyno the engine when it's done, The dyno guy just rebuild the dyno for $7000 with two new turbines etc.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Crane has a new cam the bigest roller in the hyd section 663 lift 252-262 @50 I put it in the last 540 the best cam I ever bought loved it had great idle and made good power ,im pickey on cams and i loved this one.. Had the greatest rumpety sound !!!

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Im not a great boost refernce fan I dont see a real need.And boost reference will not make any more power just change the fuel curve in the mid range.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Do you have a grind/part # for that cam?

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

The latest updates...

The crank: Callies Stealth (all I know about it is that stealth is also in GM's new 572 engines)
JE piston and Manleys H-beam rods

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

What caused this??? Spots and thin pieces missing of the rod bearings in #2, 6 and 8 cylinders. Mainly in the cap end bearings.

Contaminations? Cavitation? Detonation? Or what?!

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Im not a big bearing guy but you definatly have some rust issues inside !The bearings look like they have water marks on them. You need to get some oil temp in that thing to boil out the moisture.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

No Realy You Got Water In The Motor Your Intake Gasket Probaly Did It However You Better Look Everything Real Close Cause You Got Water ....

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

I agree , As I have said from the begining I belive you had more than a low oil temp problem. Probably the intake gasket or headgaskets but most likely a little bit of both.
When do you plan on having the boat back in the water ?
I am shure that it is cold over there , but I know how you crazy Swed's are ! I am anxious to see how your boat runs when you get it back togather. Do you have an idea what your boat wieghs ?? If not I am shure someone on here does. The reason I ask is because our motors should be making close to the same power when we get done.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Thanks for the replies guys! :)

Yes there are some rust inside the block, but 99% of the moving parts are rust free. I will replace the cam, lifters, valves, springs, all bearings, all gaskets. Hone the cylinders and do a valve job. And of course get rid of that "surface rust" in the block and wash everything before assembly.

So you beleive the issue is water in oil?! That sound fair but why is it only the bearing on the even side of the engine (2,(4),6,8). Does someone has any ideas?!

I will get the big Hardin thermostatic oil cooler and put it in. I know Mange hads really good experiences with that oil cooler, so I will trust him on that... :P

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

The engine parts will arrive from the states within 6-8 weeks so there's really no real hurry to put it in the water for the moment... :P But the parts I'm keeping will be nice and clean and ready to rock by then. Will probably have the block and heads painted before then as well.

My Pantera is supposed to weigh 4050lbs without the lead plates in the bow. I will keep those to start with and then take them out later on. I'm guessing 50lbs a piece and there are probably 6 of them.

So a total weight of about 4350lbs.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

Wow Tomas, That boat is lite.

Re: The rebuild of the Pantera coloured 509
 

It's supposed to be the lightest Pantera ever built (so there is room for more beer when pleasuring). :D

It also has a notch and therefore also a high x-dim.

I was thinking your 28 was one of the lightest ones built. Although I would have thought it weighed more than 4050 lbs.
So I would have lost that one if I would have been guessing.
I will be thrilled if my Saber comes in around 5k lbs. but I will have to just see.

littledcsrodshop If you are still looking for a drive there is an Arneson on ebay now

Tomas, wow that is light is that the weight fully rigged?

Jo told me that when racing in F1 it weighed 4050lbs and to get to the minimum weight they mounted 300-400lbs of lead in the bow to clear the requirements to start.

Dude I d yank out that weight fix your ballance with prop and have the fastest boat around

Around Sweden...:D

Yup... Thats the plan, but have to start with the same setup to have some to compare to. Later on Throttle up will get an order... And my braggin'around V8 friends will get some...:D

Altough Mange (who ran Bruces Pantera) is looking for 850-900HP in his Swede made modern Magnum 27 (Arrow 830) with the SC 572 and my guess is 112mph! I'm still guessing that he will look at some Pantera transom this summer! :drink:

:p

Some more pics of the rod bearings. Back and front sides of 2,4,6,8

1,3,5,7 and rod ends

Yeah, I think my Arrow will be a little bit scary....

Ididnt know that your Pantera had an transom...I have not seen it yet...hahaha....

Keep up the good work Tomas!!! I Know your job will add some more power!!

Mange

HAHAHAHA! Hopefully there will be a few more mph when this project is finished. But your Arrow will still be WILD!:evilb:

It looks like the bearings have got a beating from the water in the oil because of corrosion and implosions that might have separated the bearing layers and therefore the implosions has taken small pieces away from the top layer. Anyhow a set of new ones will make it happy again as long as I keep the water out of the oil...

Will remove the receiver grooves from the heads and go with the MLS type head gaskets. Will also smooth out the combustion chambers to eliminate all sharp corners to minimize the risk for detonation. Pics to come...

Forgive me if I overlooked this already , but are you going to Mill the reciever grooves out of the head & keep the wire o-rings in the block & try to run a MLS Gasket ???
Also what gaskets where on the motor before ? It doesn't appear to have had copper on it. By the pics it looks like it had some sort of blue felpro.

It had Fel-Pro Wire-Locs and the groove is only in the heads - not in the block. I will have to mill about 0.015 out of the heads.

I got it now. It was hard to tell from the pics if the block was ringed or not but it looked to be , but I guess not. I would go the same route with the MLS gaskets everyone seems to love them. I would use the MLS myself but my block is wire o-ringed so I am going to mill my reciever grooves out of my heads also , & I will run a self sealing copper. leaving the wire rings in. I just wanted to make shure you weren't going to try to run the MLS with a ringed block. Later , Scott

The MLS gaskets are ~.015 thicker than the Wire-Loc's so the comp ratio will basically be the same since I will mill ~.015 from the heads.

The head gaskets seems to have been leaking pretty bad according the look of them. Hopefully the MLS's will eliminate that problem.

The parts are now ordered and they will arrive in about 3-4 weeks. Superchiller, KPM sea strainer and intercooler strainer, new valves, all new bearings, AN hoses and fittings (for oil and fuel), Gen III exhaust, Hardin Marine's largest thermostatic oil cooler, piston rings and a bunch of other things.

The new hyd roller cam together with new lifters and springs are being ordered from RMBuilder.

Sounds like you are getting things all gathered up.
I got most of my parts a few weeks ago , I got my heads back from the machine shop last week I had them milled .040" . I recieved my headgaskets today , So all I have left to get is my cam which I was sent a few weeks ago , however they sent me the wrong cam so I had to get that worked out & I should be getting the right one soon. I am leaving for the SW coast of FL tommorow & I hope to be able to put my motor togather when I get back. Here is a shot of my intake I painted last week.
I wish you the best in getting it all back togather , now lets just hope your drive holds up as good as alberts has under big power. Talk to you later , Scott

Sorry forgot the pics.

Thanks Scott,
When are you planning to have your engine ready to run? That intake looks really awesome! :D

I'm hoping to be done in about a month from when I get all the engine stuff. The honing and milling of the heads will be done by then and the assembly shouldn't take too long. Then there's just the dyno time and putting it back in the boat left.

I will have to check the scoop for clearance though, hopefully I will have a couple of .10 inches...

Today I got the block and heads to the engine shop for honing and milling the heads - will be back by wednesday.

Started cleaning the Pantera last weekend. A few more hours of polishing and waxing and it's done.

But there are some work that has to be done, the cockpit floor has to be repaired since it has a few cracks along the port side and the laminate around the fuel inspection hatch must be replaced about 2x1ft, nothing big but I'm already dreading for the grinding... A few layers of glass will take care of the cracks.