|
Hatch Lifting Problem
I have been reading the treads and I notice that many of you are having problems with your motor hatch, either it is very slow or stripping gears. I don't know but just a thought, would adding Gas Lift Supports to aid the motor would help out
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
All three of my Powerquests had the gas supports and all three were slow. The best one was the Viper but compared to other brands still slow. Don't understand why Powerquest cant fix !!!!!!!
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
The hatch on my '96 Enticer *will not* go up unless I help it by lifting like hell while the motor is running.
What really chafes me is that at the Smoke on the Water run, I was beached next to my buddy's 31 Sonic. He hit the switch and the hatch was up in like 5 secs - and his hatch included 1/2 the back bench! I agree PM, it is a fricking travesty that PQ can't get this resolved - I've had a '99 280 (that I bought new) and now the '96 290, and the hatch ram was a worthless POS in each one. |
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
I like the Powerquest boats and the company seems to have a strong focus on customer service, why they refuse to fix this is beyond me. Bill R suggested a relay box sold by Eddie marine. lt only costs $44.00 thus I think I will give it a try. Just waiting for a response from PQ as to whether they think it will work.
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
I like the Powerquest boats and the company seems to have a strong focus on customer service, why they refuse to fix this is beyond me. Bill R suggested a relay box sold by Eddie marine. lt only costs $44.00 thus I think I will give it a try. Just waiting for a response from PQ as to whether they think it will work.
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
I'll have to check mine and see what brand list they used becasue I don't have that problem.
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
If you have the old short stroke lift just replace it with one of the many aftermaket rams. It may require some minor engineering IE; getting under the hatch with it down to measure the closed length. I have a long stroke lift on an 02 that has worked well although I modified the ram to hatch connection. I will check the brand and post later if interested.
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
1 Attachment(s)
you guys can make your own relay system to help the hatches along....heres how :-D
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
Is there a item number for the Bosh relay and how many Amps one should look for
|
Re: Hatch Lifting Problem
I would probably go with item#330-077 from the link below. The 40 amp relay with mounting tab.........you can also get the the dual socket relay holder to make life easier #330-078. I have used the 30amp realys before without any problems.......but if your hatch is unusually heavy then maybe go with a 40 or even a 50 amp realay. They do make sealed versions for more of a wet envirnment like a boat but again if its gonna be mounted above the bilge area i wouldnt worry about it. Even though the regular ones are not sealed they wont spark or ignite anything due to the plastic housing on them. Here where i have bought relays in the past from:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ectGroup_ID=31 |
I know this is an oldie, but I feel the need to comment anyway.
I was searching through old threads, looking for a solution to my slow "broken" hatch actuator. I went to the extent to take it off and take it to a shop that repairs electric motors. They pretty much said by the time they took it apart and tried to repair it I might as well buy a new one. As you know, they are about $250+, so I decided to investigate it further. Upon running a temp jumper STRAIGHT to my port battery (with child hunched down in bilge) I realized there was NOTHING wrong with my actuator, the problem was actually with the wiring/switch. This is where I ended up......... About $50.00 in parts later (I went with 10Ga tinned wire, so it got a little expensive) I used a weatherproof box, all heat shrink terminals and regular old 40 Amp relays they had at Autozone. Oh happy day, hatch fires right up from the down position without even so much as a whine. Thanks again to Wally (again, I know it's an old thread). Saved me a lot of money and I was able to get a nice feeling of satisfaction by completing a project.:cool-smiley-011: |
Originally Posted by PJDiesel
(Post 2241314)
I know this is an oldie, but I feel the need to comment anyway.
I was searching through old threads, looking for a solution to my slow "broken" hatch actuator. I went to the extent to take it off and take it to a shop that repairs electric motors. They pretty much said by the time they took it apart and tried to repair it I might as well buy a new one. As you know, they are about $250+, so I decided to investigate it further. Upon running a temp jumper STRAIGHT to my port battery (with child hunched down in bilge) I realized there was NOTHING wrong with my actuator, the problem was actually with the wiring/switch. This is where I ended up......... About $50.00 in parts later (I went with 10Ga tinned wire, so it got a little expensive) I used a weatherproof box, all heat shrink terminals and regular old 40 Amp relays they had at Autozone. Oh happy day, hatch fires right up from the down position without even so much as a whine. Thanks again to Wally (again, I know it's an old thread). Saved me a lot of money and I was able to get a nice feeling of satisfaction by completing a project.:cool-smiley-011: |
glad it worked out for ya :D
|
Definitely go with the relay mine is up in like 3-5 seconds, worth the few dollars and only about a 30 min install.
|
It still amazes me how the factory was so incompetent on correcting this easy electrical problem with the engine hatches from day one.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:42 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.