Power hatch relay
 

O.K. has anyone purchased a relay for there power hatch from anyone other than Rex Marine? They are on back order due to some design issues. Would like one sooned than 4 weeks.

Re: Power hatch relay
 

I have one, but you could make your own with a pair of 40 amp relays, that is all that is in the box from Rex. When I bought my boat it was allrwady on it, but the casing was all fuggered up so I diassembled is and epoxyed it back together, but by using 2 of the relays listed below you will essentially build the same thing.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=330-079

Re: Power hatch relay
 

Thanks for the info. Was hoping to find one all set rather than rigging my own. I guess I'll have to wait out Rex marine and the hatch. Both seem to be pretty slow! :D

Re: Power hatch relay
 

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...26+Accessories

you may want to try theirs

Re: Power hatch relay
 

I see Trick Marine has whole friggin' rams for under $300. I'm awfully tempted to just go that route if we keep the 290. Wonder if I'd have to pull the motors to install it, or just the inside exhaust manifolds? And if I had the inside manifolds off, I wonder if I could get my fat ass down in the bilge to give it a good scrubbing? Hmmm....

Hatch rams

Re: Power hatch relay
 

Dock, I believe you will still want to run the relay or do a complete re-wire.

My ram works fine once it was getting the proper voltage with the relay. I believe if I replaced the ram but used the same wiring it would not have made a difference.

If you know anybody who deals with electronics I hear the relay is made of about $15 in parts, just need to know how to put them together.

I think the main hot wire run to my dash was formerly the filament from a 60W light bulb. I have to upgrade it soon.

Re: Power hatch relay
 

Hey cb, did you ever try 4 blades on your 290? I'm thinking the extra blade would help get her up on plane a bit easier, and I'm not overly concerned over any loss at the top end.

Re: Power hatch relay
 

You may be right about the whole hatch thing. I had the relay box on order from Rex, but they said it was backordered. Since I decided to put the boat up for sale, I cancelled the order (with my luck I'd have gotten the part the day after the boat left with a new owner...).

Now that I'm leaning toward keeping her another season, I'd really like to fix this issue.

Re: Power hatch relay
 

have not tried the 4 blade yet. In normal conditions, I am satisifed with my current setup. In LOTO water, it gets so mixed up I have blow out problems occassionally that exist regardless of the boat weight. I think the 4 blades would solve it but 90% of my boating doesn't require it.

Come winter, I am going to have my existing 3 blades re-done and see what that does.

Re: Power hatch relay
 

I just built a relay box for a buddy and his 36OL and he was in the same spot we are in, took a week and a half to go up, 12 bucks in parts later and he is happy and it goes up and down like it is supposed to.

If you need one made just let me know and I can solder one up for you. Will not be a pretty as the rex box, but it works and would inexpensive

let me know

Christian

Re: Power hatch relay
 

Hell, Christian, you might have more business than you know what to do with!

Knowing the age of this thread, if possible, can you email me the wiring schematics or some type of instructions on your "home made" engine hatch excelator? Thanks for the help...

[email protected]

You guys talking about this one i made a while back? :D
you can either wire it like i have it shown....or if your dash switch is allready wired up for 12v+ then just switch the connections on the realays at terminal 86 on the relay to a ground instead of 12v+

Hope that helps ya

wow....i didnt notice the age of this thread till i just read through it!! :p well hopefully my posting will help other in the future.....

Here is the relay schematic wiring

Assuming the following that the wiring from the dash is 12v positive to activate the switch and that it is a standard 2 wire actuator

you will need 2 30 amp bosch or P&B relays and the appropriate .250 female spade ends and at least 14ga wiring, I prefer 12ga

one relay will control up and the other down

up relay
post 85 on the relay goes to the up wire from the switch
Post 86 goes to chassis ground
post 87 goes to 12v battery power
post 87a goes to Chassis Ground
Post 30 goes to Up wire on motor

Down relay
post 85 on the relay goes to the down wire from the switch
Post 86 goes to chassis ground
post 87 goes to 12v battery power
post 87a goes to Chassis Ground
Post 30 goes to down wire on motor

Let me know if there are any questions

i was looking at the rex marine web site -- i don't see the relay box on there? it would be nice to buy one pre-made

any ideas?

eddiemarine.com
look under hatch lifts

Is it the relay box that causes the hatch to go up slowly? just wondered because mine is slow going up,,, like forever

The realy box is what speeds up the hatch

The way they are from the factory is wired from the battery to the dash back to the actuator so there sis a ton of volatge drop on the long wire run

The relay box make the run as short as possible to speed up the ram :)

I am going to build one this coming week. Will let you all know how it comes out.

i got one from keith eickhart -- pricey -- but i was lazy

works GREAT!!! easily twice as fast -- just put it on last night

Relay
 

I have one of CK's relays all set to go. I sold my boat before I got a chance to install it. If anyone can use it on their PQ let mek know. It's free to the first one who responds.
Mike

I was just looking to purchase one, but Eddie Marine has them on BO. Let me know how you want to handle it.
Thx

I'll take it.

I can PayPal you the shipping, just let me know your paypal address.

I was Juuuuuuuuust ready to order a new ($259.00) actuator, I can almost say 100% that mine is a wiring issue too.

Thanks in advance.

Phil Snyder
phil(at)davisappraisalinc.com

Opps, didn't see the other post above.
:rolleyes:

Thanks Mike. Got the relays yesterday. I will install it this week. I have bought all of the parts and will also try to duplicate one. If I am successful, I will mail one out lto someone who needs it like you did to me.

Thanks again.

Okay, I am convinced to install relays. Do I need to run new wires from the switch to the relay, or do I snip the current wires at the lift and use them. I understand the rest of the wiring, but not that part. Thanks, Scott

you use your existing wires from you dash switch -- those are the ones that control the relay. Then you wire from the relay to the hatch lift.

i just snipped mine -- put some new connectors on and now it lifts!


mark

Help...

I've been seeing all of these posts on here about the hatch actuator and assumed that maybe my previous owner had already done mine because it worked very well.... I went to open her up yesterday and it wont move. It will make the sound as if its working if I press the down switch, but pressing the up switch I get nothing.

Any ideas what I should do for that problem??

Look to see if you have 2 small relays and wiring attached to the actuator circuit somewhere. Probably near the ram or the batteries. It sounds like you have 12 volts on one side at least. Feel the relays and have someone actuate the switch. You should feel them click in your hands. I am guessing one went belly up. If you do have this circuit, I would look at the diagram above and switch the appropriate wires to make the other elay the up relay and see if your actuator works. If the motor works in 1 direction, I believe it should work in the other because the direction it works is dependent on the polarity of the voltage.

But then again, what do I know, my fuse blew on my first attempt at rewiring!

Good luck,

could also be your gears are stripped on your lift... i took mine apart and the screw at the bottom of the ram was stripped completely

If it just happened without notice, its likely a fuse or connection.

If you messed with your batteries at all I would check and verify all connections at the Batt and Relay are good.

Ok, I will check that.. I think with how well and how normal it had been working that it is probably not stripped. I think it has to be electrical. If it still works going down but wont work going up, that wouldn't be a fuse would it??

really sounds like a wiring issue -- either you have the relay and one is bad -- or the wire to the UP side is loose/broken ect..

I had the power lead to my relay disconnected the other day and the hatch would go down. Not sure why really but it did.

I was in the middle of chasing down a voltage problem when I found it. My gripe with my boat is wiring... IMO it was not wired to take lake michigan abuse. Dash is daisy chained together and found the connection off the blower switch was poor/starting to fail..thus everything after the blower was not getting appropriate voltage. I will be permanently fixing that prob over winter.

I bet many manufactures do this. The dash panel can be pre-wired at a bench, then the final connections made in the boat. Saves time for the installers, but probably not the best way for a boat. I'm going to gut my dash this winter and do it the right way too. It helps that I'm an electrician and just want things done the right way :D

I installed the relays for the power hatch last night and everything went great. looking at the drawing in an earlier post can somebody tell me what size fuse to use in the 12v + wire ? I am guessing 20 amp.

20 amp fuse for 12 gauge wire or 30 amp fuse for 10 gauge wire. The relays should be rated 30 amp if using the 30 amp fuses.

I am having problems wiring this up. At the dash I have a dpdt switch wired with the power and grounds crossing making an x, and the output wires for up and down in the middle. These are going straight to my hatch rams. When I put in the relay wired like the diagram states I get nothing. Can someone help me. Here is the image of my current set up. Thank you in advance.

http://www.eddiemarine.com/techsuppo...tructions1.jpg

what relay diagram are you trying to use? the one i posted a picture of??? if that the case then the problem is the power supply you have going to the switch....dissconnect that battery feed from your dash switch.

If you have the relays wired up for a positive trigger then dissconnect the negative feed so only battery power is supplied to the relays....