Started my project
 

The blocks are at the machine shop and with the nice weather I thought I better get started. I filled all the holes from the old motor mounts removed the speedo pickup and filled those holes also. I have made up my mind to relocate the bilge pumps when I pulled them out I found the board they are mounted to in bad shape If you guys have the same system I'd suggest keeping a eye on them.

Thought I'd post a couple pictures and will follow up with the finished project. I have to say it's tough ripping apart a boat that is 3 years old but should be nice and hopefully just how I want it when I'm done.:rolleyes:

Tough maneuvering around the docks with no wheel:eek:

If anyone is interested my Speedo is available (cheap) it is liquid filled and has PQ written across the top

Looks like I dropped a bucket of paint. It's not so bad when the motors are in.:D

Ray,
I know it's wayyyy to late but here is how they install the heater:rolleyes:

Jim,
The heater was tight but I will take your advice and add a couple of through bolts with nylock nuts. I will also do this with my new batt boxes and spare prop holders.

Scott, looks good. I hope you get it done in time to hit the water ;)

BTW, send me an e-mail regarding your speedo $ :). I assume that your speedo will re-connect right into my existing hole, bezel and wires.


Jeff

Dont forget that may 9th (I think) is the tea party at the bay. It doesnt look like you'll be ready. It is a fun event so come by jet and atleast spend the day or book a room. Good luck with your project.

Scott - I know you were having the 500HP valve train issues, what all are you doing? Isn't PowerTorque Engineering in your neck of the woods?

Kentz,

My heads are at Jim V's. My blocks are at Griff's in Sandusky. I am having the whole rotating assembly balanced. I am also having the pistons and rods matched. They will install the crank and pistons along with checking all the clearances and of course line bore and hone.
I have sent all my junk parts back to crane and should hear from them today. I'm sure they will just be asking for my credit card #:rolleyes:
When I receive the parts from Crane I will install the new cams and hopefully get it back together without too much trouble.

I had Jim V check my spring pressure and it was WAY off, Crane knows this and will admit they had a problem with them. The best I can get out of them is a discount on there wholesale pricing this helps but I think it should be NO charge. In my eyes it's there fault that my motors are broken or were about to break. I'm not the one who made the decision to match a spring with a valve then add 50# to the closed seat pressure.
I should also add that the problems started at 140 hours and no I'm not WOT all the time this is from normal use.

On a positive note my torque and hp will increase with the mods that I have had done (heads and cam). This package should be long lasting and turnkey. Scott

Scott, What were the symtoms that caused you to take a look at the motors ? I have neard of a couple of problems with the 500's. Your "valve trane" problem and the EFI's running so rich they eventually dilute the oil. I have a couple of new 500 EFI's on the way and was curious if there is something I should / could do to prevent some of the issues you're dealing with.

Warrior,

The EFI's were built after the spring change you should have good running motors. Start a post and ask Boathead about the EFI's he just had his reprogramed. Enjoy the new power!

Forgot to tell you about the problem. They started to sound like a sewing machine at idle and I had a lifter come apart and take out the cam. Did a quick fix to get through the season. I found out about the spring issue and decided to change them. Thats when all the SH#*$ started to happen. One thing led to another and now I'm in over my head:D

This weekend I was able to move my bilge pumps and install the new battery boxes + prop holders.

Trust me the splash paint isn't as agressive with the motors in there.:D

The other side :)

I found some nice weather srip at Home Depot it's made for campers and boats. Thought I'd give it a try and get rid of the nasty looking grey stuff that was falling off.

I also did a ton of re-wireing,filled holes and ran some of my steering lines.

Looking good!
 

Scott,

Where did you pick up the Batteries, Mounts and Prop mounts? I need to re-do my battery mounts too. Are the prop mounts Marine Machine?

Ray,
The spare prop mounts came from dollar offshore (merc) about 45 or so each. The Optima batterys came from Murrays and the Otima boxes came from Eddie marine they are the only ones that make them. The picture does not do them justice these are made to fit the optima like a glove and have a finish that is far beyond what I had expected about 100 each or less!
I would suggest through bolting all of these with 1/4 20 and nylock nuts with large washers. I had to countersink the prop holders (made the mounting look nicer). You may have to pull your exhaust and use a skinny kid (again) to get the nuts on.

My blocks should be ready this weekend and my heads the following week and the parts are starting to arive from UPS. The only problem I have is that I have to travel again the next couple of weeks kind of funny how work can get in the way:D

Scott,

Which optima battery did you get?

They make the 34M and the D34M. The latter is a deep cell discharge type. It will unload more power but it has less CCA?? Not sure which one to get.


34M
MarineStarter 980CCA Top Post+Top Stud $144.95

D34M Marine
Deep Cycle 870CCA Top Post+Top Stud $171.95

I found these prices online with free freight.

Ray,
They are the 870CCA I never had starting problems but do raft off a lot and sometimes stay at places with no shore power. It made more sense to me to have the deeper reserve. If I had real high compression hard starting motors I would of gone the other way.
I paid somewhere around 150 each plus tax at Murrays discount auto. The only problem I had was that they tried to give me a couple of junky looking scratched up Batts. I told them I needed the best they had so they did hand pick a couple from there warehouse. I guess they ship them in all thrown together on a pallet.

Scott

Scott, I got my Eddie Marine battery mounts in!!! Polished Aluminum They look real nice. I am thinking of just using 4 Toggle Bolts to mount instead of trying to get the nut under the floor. No anyone that makes Stainless ones?

Just a note, On my re-power Tyler put on new couplers. The starboard engine has one with an extended "Tube" that the outdrive driveshaft would go in first before contacting the splines. It must be a racing or High Performance version. I have not seen them before but he did it for a reason. If you are replacing yours maybe you should look them up.

Ray,
My couplers seem to be in good shape. I have no experience with the one you are talking about. I can give you a tip though! make sure your drives go all the way up against the gimbal housing without having to force them tight with the nuts. I had a bad crank thrust bearing and they think this might be the answer. Too much pressure against the crank:eek:

Of course it might have something to do with my alignment getting wacked out one too many times!

All of my parts are now in and I pick up the blok and heads next week! If I get a few days in town I might actualy complete my project on time:cool: Scott

Scott, I talked to Tyler today about the valve springs. He said he now only uses Isky springs. He said he still had problems with the Crane and has tried Comp Cams too with dissapionting results. You should call him at 810-324-2720 and disuss. I told him you may call. He said he looks for 140 lbs seated pressure.

He took care of my alignment problem too.