Trim Tabs Not working.
 

My trim tabs stopped working over the weekend. Im getting power to and from the switch. I think the pump may be locked up??? Is this a common problem or not likely.

I had a similar problem with my tabs. Each tab on my set up goes direct to a battery and is fused. Although I had voltage, it couldn't handle any current. It turns out that inside the fuse holder was corrosion. When I tried to activate the tab, nothing happened sometimes just a click. I thought the pump motor was bad. Glad I didn't jump the gun and buy a new motor. I just replaced the fuse holders. This happened on both tabs 2 weeks apart from each other. Each tab went to a separate battery with a separate fuse.

May not be the same, but it's worth a look. And cheap to fix.

Ray

thanks. ill check it out

Make sure the batteries are fully charged

Thay are charged enough to start the engine.

My trim tabs stopped working and the boat still started. I called insta trim, the manufactor and they told me to make sure the batteries were fully charged. After I put a charger on them the tabs started working fine.

Thanks ill try that too.

Josh,

Do you know what brand your Trim tabs are? Let me know, and I can help, even if they are not Bennett.

Tom McGow
Bennett marine

idk? Thay are the stock ones that came on it. The unit inside the engine compartment is red?? lol.

A red pump usually is a Boat Leveler system. Does it look like this?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...ow/2269412.jpg

Here is a link to their website http://www.insta-trim.com/

I can't find any troubleshooting on their site.

The Boat Leveler system is pretty easy to troubleshoot. I put together this troubleshooting based on how the system works. If you hear the pump running but the Trim Tabs are not moving, check to see that the system is getting good power as low voltage can cause the motor to run but the valves may not open. Clean the connections and pay particular attention to both ends of the ground wire at the pump. Then do the test below.

Here is the wiring for Boat Leveler.

green=Port Valve
white= Starboard Valve
red=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
black on HPU=Ground
red on Helm=Control Positive

http://www.insta-trim.com/images/wire2.jpg

http://www.insta-trim.com/images/wire1.jpg

Here is how you can test it.

Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:

Operation=Reaction
(+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down
(+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down
(+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down
(+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

Make sure to check both ends of the black ground wire at the pump for corrosion.

I hope this is helpful,
Tom
Bennett Marine

Thats it. The pump isnt running. Hopefully its one of thoes solenoids. Ill do some testing. Thank you for your help.

Josh,

The solenoids open the valves for the hydraulic fluid, so it's probably not them that are keeping the pump from running. Check the ground wire on the pump as well as the red and yellow wires at the pump. The red runs the pump forward (tabs down) and the yellow runs the pump in reverse (tabs up). If the ground is good you can try putting 12 v positive right on the yellow wire at the pump. You should hear the motor spin when you do this. If you do not hear it, then the motor has likely failed.

Tom
Bennett Marine

Thanks again. Can I install Kplains on the stock rams? It has twin rams on each tab.

Josh,

If they are the stock Boat Leveler actuators (rams), they will look like this:
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n109/tlmcgow/bl.jpg

I really don't think they would hold up to the larger, heavier K-Planes.

If you intend to install K-Planes you should use the actuators provided by them.

Tom
Bennett Marine

..
 

Thay look sorta like that. Here is a pic. 2 rams has to be better than one rt? lol

k planes have a large bracket that bolts to the transom and need it support so it doesnt push the rams through the transom

Makes since.

i was also looking for that kind of info.....thanks,tom

mine are also identical....someone knows what brand they are?

I'm quite sure they are 'Boat Leveler'....by Insta-trim.

I still have all my paperwork etc. with my '93 Laser which has the same...http://www.insta-trim.com/hev.html

Does anyone have the wiring info for the Bennett style trim tab pump? thanks!

BlownFountain,

Here is a link to a video that covers the basic system and general troubleshooting http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/videoplayer.php?vID=10

Below you will find troubleshooting that includes the wiring information for the system.

Let me know if I can be of any help.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Fluid: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) any type. Hydraulic Power Unit is self bleeding, running the Trim Tabs up and down 3-4 times will purge air from the system.

Fuse: 12 volt system use 20 amp in-line fuse on positive. (24v & 32v use proportionately smaller)

Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

5. If you conclude the problem is in the pump, contact me. Bennett Trim Tab Systems carry a five year warranty.

6. Check to see if there is a relay in line on the wiring harness near the hydraulic power unit. If there is it is an Interrupter Relay (IR1000). It prevents the system fuse from blowing if you try to actuate one trim tab up and the other down at the same time. After you test as outlined above, try removing the relay from the wiring harness and retest the unit.(Note: the interrupter relay is no longer used in current Bennett Trim Tab systems and has been replaced with a Switches that "lock out" preventing a blown fuse).
Image Like Bennett Marine on Facebook to learn more. https://www.facebook.com/bennettmarine

That's great info!! Thanks so much.

Bennett
 

Hello guys am new here , my trim tabs switch is not working. I am getting powee to the switch.

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Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

I need to make trim tabs to aid in trimming my 30” Dumas Hawker Hurricane. What is the best way to make them? I have had a hard time finding something that will hold the angle I set it to. Thanks for any help.

Dave

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I need to make trim tabs to aid in trimming my 30” Dumas Hawker Hurricane. What is the best way to make them? I have had a hard time finding something that will hold the angle I set it to. Thanks for any help.

Dave

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?

-
 

Can anyone advise on whether stainless trim tabs should be antifouled with regular hull antifoul, or copper free sterndrive antifoul?

Also, should the trim tab bracket have the 25mm clean border around it as per the transom shield?